Recent content by Jax

Indeed. During but the next rebuild my intention is to add billet drums. Will be looking forward to either contact JVX or CRT for their products. I have noticed Andrews transmissions has some good products and great service as well

The fluid looked dark red, going to little brown. No smell of burned oil

Just as additional information, the transmission has approximately 350 quater mile passes...

I would like to just take a look at the clutch pack and push some air to verify movement as you described. Can I lower the valve body while in the vehicle without any small pieces of parts falling of?

Hi all. Thanks for the information amd feeback. Yes, I am a racer, however not an expert on transmission. But, actually last night I was having this conversation with my friend who is a mechanic, that we neet to start doing some learning on these units. I am taking the route to further inspect...

The pan is of to adjust the rear band as this was never done, and to change the trans filter. The transmission is a race trans build by JVX, with a manual valve body... leaving the line on 2 step. Haven't had any issues so far.

Any mayor concerns? The trans is running fine...

Dropped my JVX A999 trasmission, and found these metal particles. What can be going on inside the transmission? The metal pieces are kind of fine and sharp... can they be pieces of the torque converte blades? Fyi.. my trans has a trans brake and manual valve body

Running mix of VP C12 fuel and 95 Octane pump gas.

1050 CFM Carb

Managed to install the dual wideband on my car. WOT A/F is in the 10.0 to 10.5. Primary Jets 84 Secondary Jets 96 My understanding is that for my set up being naturally aspirated an A/F ratio 12.2 to 12.8 is fine. If that is the case, approximately how many numbers should I lean the mixture...

I have a build JVX A999 transmission, with manual valve body and transbrake. I will be changing the oil and filter soon, and I am planned to adjust both the front and rear bands. What are the recommended specs to readjust both bands?

34 degrees @ 3500 rpm. Locked timing

Recommended total engine timing Don't know why the above thread isn't available anymore for posting, but anyways here follows some updates... Lower the total timing to 34 degrees, and the MPH didn't change at all they remained the same. Change to NGK BKR6E spark plugs, and gapped to 0.028"...

This is the current plug placed on the punctured tire. The idea was to place tubes to avoid potential leak do the plug going to leak on high speeds.. Your input is highly appreciated.