Recent content by jessearias

As mentioned in previous posts, they are a tight fit. I am in the process of removing the stock K member and steering linkage and installing the Alterkation. With the torsion bars and stock steering linkage removed, the clearances really open up. It is still tight close to the frame, but...

Just follow the directions carefully and BE CAREFULL when you are grinding and or drilling. Most people get into trouble by drilling out the passage in the VB too much or grinding the throttle valve to much. Take your time and measure twice when doing these operations and you will be fine...

Just follow the directions carefully and BE CAREFULL when you are grinding and or drilling. Most people get into trouble by drilling out the passage in the VB too much or grinding the throttle valve to much. Take your time and measure twice when doing these operations and you will be fine...

Just follow the directions carefully and BE CAREFULL when you are grinding and or drilling. Most people get into trouble by drilling out the passage in the VB too much or grinding the throttle valve to much. Take your time and measure twice when doing these operations and you will be fine...

The direct clutch clearance is dependent on the shift timing release of the kick down band. So it depends on what shift modifications you do to the valve body and kick down servo. When you tighten the clearance on the direct clutch, it will apply faster. If the band releases slow, you will...

You cannot beat the Indy X heads for cost to benefit. A basic set of heads is around $ 900 complete. You can get a set of original factory heads, but then you have to rebuild them and you will probably have the same amount of money invested as a new set of X heads. From a performance...

340's and early 360 blocks (pre 1974) were thick wall castings that could take a .060 overbore with no problem. As mentioned, sonic checking is a good idea just to be sure. Where you get into big problems are with the later "thin wall" castings, where .030 is pushing it.

I have heard a of a lot of issues with Eagle cranks and rods. I bought an Eagle stroker crank and the rods were out of spec. My machinist corrected the problem, but I will never buy another Eagle product. My machinist swears by Scat parts. Both are made in China, but Scat has better QA/QC. Both...

I was going to use these on my 66 Barracuda w/ 360, but decided to go with the TTI's. larger tubes and 3 inch collectors plus, no cutting! If TTI didn't offer these, I would be right with you. Not a lot of options for early A bodies.:pale:

I personally would go with Indy or Hughes. Probably not the cheapest around, but both have good reputations. I personally like Hughes myself.