Recent content by Ken71Twister

I’d just make things worse if I tried to “improve” the solder job. See any harm in putting a drop of glue on the top center of the red wire to keep it in place?

A friend of my has experience with this type of work and he added the piece of stranded wire across the break. I’ll check it in the morning but I’m optimistic that this will put me back in business. A new board would be nice but I’m impatient to get back to installing my new meter match device...

What’s the best way to repair this?

Looks promising… I was not familiar with this product. I just looked it up on YouTube and it looks like a solid option if the easier approaches don’t work satisfactorily.

Thanks everyone for the ideas.

The thought of a welder crossed my mind but I don’t have one. I figure that I might need a matching tap to re-establish threads if I add weld material. Perhaps a small dab or two would suffice without needing to re-tap.

Sounds good. What material? Copper?

I screwed up and stripped the threads on the door light switch. Didn’t realize ‘till it happened but the metal in the door post isn’t very thick where this threaded switch screws in. Can’t get to the back side and it looks too thin for traditional stripped thread repairs. Other than sticking...

Maybe these photos will help. I’ll try standing on my head again to see if I can tell how/where the switch is bolted in place. It’s a poor excuse…but wearing glasses makes it tough to see what I’m doing in that tight (and upside down) situation.

My reference to anti-theft is that when someone unfamiliar with the car pushes the clutch down - it won’t crank. You have to know to let the clutch pedal up a bit before it will crank.

If I don’t find a reasonably easy way to adjust this to where it will start when fully depressed - I’ll need to be prepared to by-pass the safety switch. I recall that my Dad’s 55 Chevy didn’t have this safety feature and nothing bad happened. I might just disable it since I’m the only person...

For years my clutch has needed to be up about an inch for the car to start. The safety switch is difficult to reach. Does anyone know what needs to be done to fix this? (It’s a nice theft proof feature but I worry about the day that it won’t start at all).

Checked this afternoon and you are 100% correct. I turned the dash lights dimmer knob and voltage varied from 0 to 10V (with car not running).

Good info - thanks. Before I retired I was content to patch and fix without really getting to understand the car. Now that I’m retired and the car is almost 53 years old - I have more time and the car has more problems. I’m willing and eager to learn. I certainly appreciate the time and...

Yes…. Check valve. Today’s carb is fresh out of the box. I’ve had this same issue over and over. A fuel leak that close to the exhaust manifold is scary.