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I’d just make things worse if I tried to “improve” the solder job. See any harm in putting a drop of glue on the top center of the red wire to keep it in place?

A friend of my has experience with this type of work and he added the piece of stranded wire across the break. I’ll check it in the morning but I’m optimistic that this will put me back in business. A new board would be nice but I’m impatient to get back to installing my new meter match device...

What’s the best way to repair this?

Looks promising… I was not familiar with this product. I just looked it up on YouTube and it looks like a solid option if the easier approaches don’t work satisfactorily.

Thanks everyone for the ideas.

The thought of a welder crossed my mind but I don’t have one. I figure that I might need a matching tap to re-establish threads if I add weld material. Perhaps a small dab or two would suffice without needing to re-tap.

Sounds good. What material? Copper?

I screwed up and stripped the threads on the door light switch. Didn’t realize ‘till it happened but the metal in the door post isn’t very thick where this threaded switch screws in. Can’t get to the back side and it looks too thin for traditional stripped thread repairs. Other than sticking...

Maybe these photos will help. I’ll try standing on my head again to see if I can tell how/where the switch is bolted in place. It’s a poor excuse…but wearing glasses makes it tough to see what I’m doing in that tight (and upside down) situation.

My reference to anti-theft is that when someone unfamiliar with the car pushes the clutch down - it won’t crank. You have to know to let the clutch pedal up a bit before it will crank.

If I don’t find a reasonably easy way to adjust this to where it will start when fully depressed - I’ll need to be prepared to by-pass the safety switch. I recall that my Dad’s 55 Chevy didn’t have this safety feature and nothing bad happened. I might just disable it since I’m the only person...

For years my clutch has needed to be up about an inch for the car to start. The safety switch is difficult to reach. Does anyone know what needs to be done to fix this? (It’s a nice theft proof feature but I worry about the day that it won’t start at all).

Checked this afternoon and you are 100% correct. I turned the dash lights dimmer knob and voltage varied from 0 to 10V (with car not running).

Good info - thanks. Before I retired I was content to patch and fix without really getting to understand the car. Now that I’m retired and the car is almost 53 years old - I have more time and the car has more problems. I’m willing and eager to learn. I certainly appreciate the time and...

Yes…. Check valve. Today’s carb is fresh out of the box. I’ve had this same issue over and over. A fuel leak that close to the exhaust manifold is scary.

Great idea…. I’m already in their web site getting ready to order one.

I didn’t do the flare on the fuel line. I bought a pre-formed fuel line that already the the flare. As I recall - it came with fittings on both ends.

You are probably right. I’ll check that tomorrow. I have a new headlight switch waiting to be installed when I’m ready to pull the panel out again - my current dash light rheostat is hosed up and is intermittant. If that’s the case - then I probably have nothing to be concerned about vs the...

I’ll have to go to the manual to understand what goes thru the fuse where I measured the low voltage. The fuse was dead ‘till I turned on the headlights…then the voltage came up. Lights off and the fuse has no voltage.

I was measuring voltage at the fuse box today. I’m measuring 12+ volts at most fuses in the fuse box. With headlights switched on - voltage at the fuse for the headlights is around 8V when engine is off and approximately 10V when the engine is running. I didn’t check this voltage before I...

Here’s a picture…

Carter 2 barrel.

I just put a remanufactured carb in my 1971 318 engine. I’ve had a recurring problem with fuel leaking at the fuel line/check-valve connection. It seems that, in the past, it has been a trial and error cycle to tighten the nut stop the fuel leak. I’ve had this happen in recent years with two...

Anyone out there that could recommend a 20:1 vs 24:1 steering box for someone that isn’t getting any younger? Secondly - who might I contact to make sure I purchase the correct steering box for a 1971 Duster with a 318 and manual steering (manual everything)? If it makes any difference - the...

How bad is the 16:1 steering box? I have been driving my ‘71 Duster with manual steering for 52 years and it isn’t getting any easier and I’ve not even checked to see what the factory steering ratio is. The steering has a lot of slack and I’m reading this thread to get ideas. Power steering...

I replaced the oil pressure sending unit within the last 6 months - but I’ll re-check it for a leak when I get my car back from paint shop.

Mark - I just talked with Ed Hillman - super nice guy. He’s not in a position to pull the engine but sounds like he’d be a great guy and loyal Mopar person to offer advice and, if necessary, to handle the engine work. I’ll continue to see what my options are - including someone local to pull...

Will do. Thanks Mark.

I would be interested in getting contact info for the guy in Cantonment FL. I just searched that area and came across a place called “Car City Engine & Machine” in Pensacola. Ever hears of them? I called and they seemed willing to pull, rebuild, and replace the engine for a reasonable price...

Interesting idea to clean thru the idle enrichment screws. The carb is so easy to unbolt and remove that I’ve always pulled it to clean it. I recently had two cases of rough idle and finding a dusty looking debris in the carb bowls. I decided that I was getting rust from the tank so I pulled...