Recent content by kennygene

You can't use the stock Dakota parts with the factory a body pedals. At least I couldn't figure out a way to do it.

I recently had a buyer contact me wanting to bug a part. He never sent the money order. After a week or so, I sent him a note and he apologized and still wanted the part. After sending him another pm and waiting nearly another week, no payment. Now he does not respond to pms. I'll stick to ebay...

I'm sorry for the crappy pics but as you can see, the s10 master cylinder fits with room for the starter cable in between it and the inner fender.

I'm thinking the huggers I'm using are hedman but I'm not 100% sure.

Block huggers fit easily. As a matter of fact, my welding skills suck and I was able to fabricate the pipes all the way to the collectors using a cut off saw and pie cuts/welds. It doesn't look real good but it works.

I am running a 8.25 rear diff from a 1974 valiant. I reused the same driveshaft that I ran with my 833 4 speed. I just had to change the transmission yoke. The u joint was the same size if I remember correctly so it was an easy swop.

I did NOT have to modify the inner fender in any way.

Yes, it's a magnum engine with a stock magnum mini starter. The bell housing is stock Dakota with a v8 flywheel just in case I ever wanted to run factory fuel injection. I use shorty block hugger headers with no clearance problems. I can't remember the brand name but I had them jet hot coated...

I'm pretty sure I used the existing hole with a homemade bushing to make it smaller. The slave is from a dodge cummins truck but not sure of the year. However, I'm pretty sure the slave was for a nv4500 transmission.

I didn't have to clearance the inner fender at all.

I don't remember what year s10 I got it from.

Numbers will just be numbers unless all heads are tested on the same flow bench.

I'll eventually run frame connectors too. I'm hoping to get this car to the track in the coming years. The s10 master cylinder is angled and works well with this setup.

Yes, I removed the top. I actually built the cross member using 2 cross members and welding them together and then modifying them accordingly. I didn't worry too much about the top of the cross member since the bottom is twice as strong as original.