Recent content by mad accountant

Where on the socket did you solder the extra ground wire? I'm having a similar problem and that sounds much easier than trying to track down a grounding problem.

Will do

These are awfully heavy and I'd worry the boxes couldn't handle it. In the meantime, I do have another member that's currently looking into shipping using Fastenal, if that doesn't work I'll check out the flat rate boxes and get back to you.

Price drop to $100

Picked up at an estate sale. $150 for all. Local pick up only unless you want to arrange shipping. These things are heavy! Pics available upon request. All are used but in good shape. #6227-1 and 6227-2 Spring Compressor and Alignment Shaft #C-3863 Front Clutch Assembly Remover and...

$125 or best offer on all, or sell individually.

$150 or best offer now.

Probably close enough. I'd put the key in RUN and make sure you have voltage at the end of that blue/white wire, the one that comes out of the connector to the ballast resistor, if no voltage try wiggling the wire at the bulkhead connector. If you get juice there, it's a bad connector. If...

If it's dying when the key is in RUN, it sounds like you've got a bad wire or loose connection in the RUN circuit (or a bad switch which I doubt). I believe it's labelled IGN2 on the wiring diagrams and is the blue wire, not the brown wire coming off the ballast resistor, at least on the '69...

Got these at an estate auction last weekend, guy had a transmission shop and must have specialized in Chrysler transaxles. Most have Pentastar on them, some do not. All are loose without packaging but in good shape as far as I can tell. I don't do paypal and that other nonsense, so if you...

Seems like that would work, but try running a wire from the + battery terminal to the + coil terminal. Leave the ballast hooked up. At least then you know you've got power to your coil. if that's a stretch, you could run a wire from the big lug on the alternator to the coil + terminal.

How did you bypass the ballast resistor? Does it still start in START and die in RUN on the switch?

Put a jumper between the two terminals on the ballast resistor (with the normal ignition wires still hooked up). If it starts and runs, the ballast resistor is probably bad. If it still starts when the key is in start, but shuts down once you put it in acc, then you probably have a bad...

You won't necessarily need new rear wheels, if your new 8 3/4 is SBP, nor will you need a new driveshaft if the one you have can be cut down and balanced. Hopefully another will chime in about whether or not you'll need to have the 8 3/4 narrowed or not and/or the spring perches...

I've got a 99 Dakota that is one of the rustiest things I've seen in a while. I got it 7 years ago and it was getting bad then, but truthfully I've nothing to stop the rust's march across the body. I will say, though, that at 180K+ it is one of the most reliable vehicles I've had. Always...