Recent content by Moparmadness408

I was thinking about installing a two post lift in my garage area so I could work on project vehicles. And I want a good brand of lift that won’t break the bank. I want a 10,000 lb lift capacity. My optimal budget is in like the 3,000-3,500 dollar range.

So as many of you may heard, my 1967 Plymouth Valiant Signet got stolen. Good news, my car got found. But the ignition switch is completely missing out of it’s hole in the dash, and the thieves look like they literally unplugged it, and just jumped the wires together. Anyways, I bought a new...

Wow. I’m sort of impressed and overwhelmed with all the advice everyone has given on here. So it’s finally getting warm enough in Colorado, and as many of you predicted, there isn’t a big change in operating temp. I removed the hood, and it did make a difference. But after long drives, it still...

If it runs hot by summer Ill pull that water pump off, and see how many vanes it has. And let you guys know.

Im running the jegs I put a jegs high volume water pump on it. It doesn’t say how many vanes it has.

That was my problem. The cable had just a slight amount of tension, and apparently that was just enough to push on the shoes and cause them to grab. I loosened that nut at the equalizer bar to the point where it sags down, and it made a huge difference. I thought as long as the shoes were...

About a year ago I did.

So I found a part number on the shoes. They go to a 1977 chevy caprice. The adjusters are on the correct sides, I pulled the cable the lever is attached to and it moves the adjuster out, and returns to its position once you let it go. I bought new shoes and one drum. I did find out the drum for...

Ok for everyone that is wondering, so what happened is I called blueprint engines and they said it’s normal for those engines when they’re under 500 miles to run hot. Now in the middle of January where the high gets up to upper forties, the car never gets past 190. So this upcoming spring, we’ll...

I took it for a drive, and the left rear wheel was starting to lock up. It turns out the pin that holds the adjuster lever fell out and damaged the drum and the shoes. So Im getting new shoes and a drum, and you guys said pictures help, so here you go. Tell me if you see something not right. Oh...

Ok so I went through and checked the shoes against the backing plate with a straight edge. And it seems to be sitting straight on the backing plate so I don’t suspect a mismatch of parts. I also tested to see whether the front or rear brakes lock up first and the rear brakes don’t actually lock...

They’re 2.5 inches in width.

It’s from a dodge truck I believe and the axle tubes were cut to the right length for an a body. The drums are 11 inches in diameter.

So the guy who built the rear diff has configured the brakes. It appears the shoes are 2.5 inches wide, and how do you tell it has all the right parts? It has an 8.75 inch rear diff

So I resurfaced that drum, and it was really warped for only having 600 miles on it. I reinstalled it, and they both got to 150 or so in the rear. I didn’t drive it real far, a few miles or so. The fronts were showing 75 degrees. I adjusted the proportioning valve to were it has less pressure...