Recent content by ozz383

Thanks for all the info. By the original specs I had it was to tight, with the new specs its just fine. Just finished up the od section. Gonna air ck everything the finish up the install on the transgo kit in the valvebody.

Thanks for the info. It was the direct clutch. I got ahold of a guy at the dealership and he gave me .070 to .120 this drum has no adjustment with the selective snap rings just with clutches and steels Thanks again ozz

I've installed a bunch nothing to it. If you have any problems give me a holler. I'm pretty close, I'll be installing another one tomorrow if everything goes good.

I have found 2 different specs on the clutch packs. I have the atsg book but having problems getting the specs right on the one clutch. Just wanting to double check before I go any farther. Thanks in advance ozz

Intake was causing my problems. It didn't show up at first so I went through ignition and chased my tail for a while then found it. Now it idles good and runs strong. hope this helps

I had he same problem with my 340 when it was first assembled, I chased the problem for awhile and found a vacuum leak at intake. I thought engine was going to break motor mount it was shaking so bad. It would run ok off idle but not quite right. Now its an animal!

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Depends on which heads are on it. Alot of those have 452's if so they are good. If it has the water heads on it you will need something different.

I'm about an hour north of evansville in. They had some books but of course the carb and electrical ones are missing. I know ther are close to eighty carb kits in there. I have been able to figure out what some of them are. But I think the real value is in the electrical stuff. ozz

A couple of months ago a co-worker asked if I'd be interested in some old parts her dad had. Come to find out he had had an auto parts store that closed down in the early eighties. I brought home over 3 truck loads of stuff. I've went through all the gaskets and sorted them out, but alot of the...

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I use Brad Penn 30w break-in with a bottle of additive, run for 20-25 mins at the rpm you were talking about and change as soon as done. That has always worked for me. ozz

I worked at John deere dealership for 6 years and seen this on more than one piece of equipment. We usually were able to flush out all the old fuel put new fuel in with seafoam. then get it warmed up good at idle and then seafoam it through the carb and shut it off and let sit. After a while...

Has any port work been done on the runners. Got any pics of them. and a close up of the ground out area. Thanks ozz

ck your flex plate and bolts. Damhik ozz