Just to add I can tell my brake lights and signals and deck are solely surviving off of my battery. As soon as my batter dies my signals barely come on if not won’t, and the car can choke and die and not enough charge to restart. Just to be confident do I need a specific tool of the trade to...
Yes I do have power steering. I have only one belt tho and one on the crank. You think I could Get away with the single groove unit ? They are 60 amp 2 groove or 65 amp Single groove. My battery output is at 55amp I believe the yellow top optima has. I figured go with what’s there but what if...
Yesterday I tried tightening the belt by adjusting the alternator, may have got it a bit tighter. But then I actually had the car die on me when I went to put it in reverse and turn around in a parking lot. Battery was too dead to start back up. Got a friend to charge me up and made it home no...
I believe this might be the case or some other stock power supply but it ran like this for years before me owning and almost 2 years of my ownership no problems.
Picture posted . It has bulky clamps so you connect it at the battery and it shows the running volt and when you hold the button for a quick second, i believe it completes a circuit and pulls current to test the supply volts. Take a quick Rough reading this way I was suggested if I couldn’t...
I have a multimeter but I’m just trying to figure out this wiring, so far I’ve found a pretty cool video. One to share with the community here for sure.
Check this Old Mopar Alternator Tech Video
It’s just your average universal unit. This one is branded SCHUMACHER ive seen them branded by many different names All look the same internally. I’ve bought and used one before on one of my past vehicles. Oldest car I’ve owned before this was my 1987 Iroc Z Which is fuel injected, so I’m new to...
I’m just checking alternator supply at the battery with a battery/alt checker. I have a multimeter but don’t know where to begin with the 2 tiny wires on opposite side. One blue one green are these supply !? They have plastic clips that mate to the alternator. Can’t see a thick power supply cable.
I figured if a fuse popped it would be totally dead I’ll have to go over the fuses. I’ll try to trace the wiring. When in check my alternator/supply it’s 13 v just under the good range Could this be the issue ? Don’t want to buy a new alternator if not necessary. Would a bad alternator at 13...
I’m driving a 73 dart sport with a built 340, aftermarket deck , all the wiring looks stock tho . But why am I getting the issue now . Could the alternator be doing this Alternatively Could the voltage Regulator be comprised of I’m still goo driving under normal RPM. It seems extra power draw...
At idle I’m at 12 v when I test the alternator it shows 13 In a red range which says no bad on my alternator/battery tester. Could the alternator do this . Is there also some kind of voltage regulator ?