I believe mine is a 2-groove pulley I want to say 60amps ? Does anyone know what choice is correct. 65 single groove, 60amp 2-groove, 114 2 groove.
Correct choice is somewhat dependent on what you want.
If the only electrical change from stock is the aftermarket radio/tape/cd deck, and its low power, then there's no need for higher 'rated' alternators than factory. The ratings are somewhat arbitrary.
A higher output alternator can be a double edged sword. If it can produce more power at idle speeds, then the battery won't be drawn upon when running lots of electric equipment (lights, wipers, fanm, brake lights). Then there's no need for the alternator to recharge the battery except after starting. This is a good thing.
But, lets say the battery is run low - and a deep cycle is made for that. A higher output at idle means it can and will provide a high charging rate for a very low battery. This is bad for the battery and bad for the wiring - both of which will got hot with high current flowing though them. Granted if we drive on the highway, even the local highways, with a standard output alternator the same problem can arise. But at least we have the option to slow down or pull off and let it idle. (Use the ammeter to monitor the charging rate. )
73 dart sport with a built 340, aftermarket deck , all the wiring looks stock tho
I’ll try to trace the wiring.
The most likely places the deck is wired into - battery positive terminal or starter relay - or the fuse box - or a wire off of the fusebox.
or maybe used the original radio power wire.
I’m just checking alternator supply at the battery with a battery/alt checker. I have a multimeter but don’t know where to begin with the 2 tiny wires on opposite side. One blue one green are these supply !? They have plastic clips that mate to the alternator. Can’t see a thick power supply cable
Blue is power supply to the rotor. It is also the 'sense' wire for the voltage regulator.
Green is the ground side of the rotor. It goes to the voltage regulator, which controls whether the connection to ground is open, closed (maximum flow) or connected to ground through resistors (restricted flow). With current flowing through the rotor windings, the rotor becomes a spinning electromagnetic field. The strength of the field is controlled by rapidly switching the connection inside the regulator.
This is a '67 so the wiring will look a little different than your '73.
But I happen to have the same style alternator on it as your car should have.
Wire on the output stud of a '73 may have a protective boot covering it. The case next to the stud may be marked BATT
Im a machinist/cad/cam guy
Ok. Then maybe you'll find graphics helpful.
'73 Power circuits look something like this. The circle in J2 represents a junction (splice?) to the choke assist if there was one on the original engine.
(Accessory wire from the key switch goes to the wipers and to the 'switched' portion of the fuse box. Radio fuse was only on when key was in Run or Accessory positions)