Recent content by slant6/4speed

I had the same problem with our 50 Chrysler. Turned out to be the starter solenoid mounted on the stater. The large steel electro-magnetic plunger would hang up from a weak magnetic field after the solenoid was turned off (magnetic sticking). Solved it by placing a THIN piece of rubber on the...

How about your oil pressure regulator/by-pass valve sticking?

I think the factory dash speaker is a 5"X7"-but leave it hooked up to the factory AM radio (they work better that todays am radios). Put a nice pair of 6X9 in the rear deck shelf. If you want to hide the modern stereo use a remote head mounted on a locking hinge so it will flip down from under...

Even the stock mopar springs had a extra 1/2 leaf spring on one side to help even out the torque of the drive train. Do you want it sitting level with no one in the car or with a driver? How full is the gas tank?(I think Chrysler wants a 1/2 tank when you adjust the suspension) No car from the...

Get rid of the stainless steel flex fan. They do break from time to time. Plus they do not work well with a fan clutch. Sand and paint the OEM fan.

Everyones soil is different but I use a water pipe slightly smaller that the ground rod hooked to a water facet. With water going through it it will "drill" its self down with the water going through the pipe. Then pull it out and put the ground rod in with a few taps. Or at least you can find a...

You may be a tooth off on the gear or check closely to see if the nylon gear (at the end of the shaft) has the cross pin in the same location in both distributors.

The slant six is a great engine-check out the slantsix.org for more info on the slant six, the "leaning tower of power"

If no one wants the car I can sell some others and drive it around the country for a while...

When you crank the engine it automatically bypasses the ballast resistor during "start" and the engine should fire but stop as soon as you let the key go back to "run" if the ballast is bad.

The ECU will work for both sixes and eights.

catch it in a cup as it comes out-light a match and see if it burns-most likely it is water vapor that is coming out and condensing.

The headlight switch has a built in circuit breaker that triggers from to much current (heat). After it cools down it will come back on for awhile and then off-then on. You get the picture. If it is being triggered (with the new switch still) then some thing is wrong with your headlights and/or...

And did you replace the alternator with one of the same size (current wise) or did you go bigger (more current)? If you went bigger that can be a problem as the old wire harness is not up to the task of the bigger current flow. If I remember your 66 should be about 25-30 amps.

A dead short will cause a fuse to blow-NOW. A almost-but-not-quite dead short will take time to blow. A worn through wire on the brake light may do it-or a wire rubbing the brake pedal arm. Or any wire any were in the car that has been pinched or worn. Or a new electrical option put in the car...