Recent content by supersoap33

He didn't help me fix my car. Neither did you.

Just posting this in case anyone else having the same issue stumbles across this thread. It was the ballast resistor. If you lights are dimming and the battery is draining rapidly while you're giving it gas, then it's likely the ballast resistor. I was stumped until I talked to the car's...

here the **** I am, Dart. And it was the water temp sensor. That's it. I didn't need to ******* know the entire car's electrical system to replace a sensor. You go overboard with everything all the time, Dart. Whenever it's one thing, you want to talk about 6 other things and completely run me...

It's a 74 Duster with a 318. The distributor is a 70 dollar model from RockAuto. Went in fine. I'm going to double check the timing. The gap looks really good on it. And I just found out that my battery was on it's last leg so I guess I'm replacing this piece of **** after less than 2 years in...

I pulled the wire off of the temp sending unit (assuming that is the little thing on the front of the intake manifold with the stud sticking out) and the gauge stays at zero now. Does that mean I need to replace the unit? Battery is also completely shot after less than two years. ****...

Fuel gauge works fine. I mean I bought a new distributor and put it in the car. I'll try pulling the temp sensor wire and get back to you.

Just replaced the distributor and the car doesn't want to run. It will crank and sort of sputter if I give it fuel, but that's it. And I didn't gap the distributor because I assumed that it came from the manufacturer pre gapped. Like I said, the temp gauge just climbs to the max and won't stop...

I deleted the bulkhead connector because mine was fucked anyways. It ran fine without it until I pulled the intake manifold. This is all happening after I've replaced the manifold. I just installed a new distributor and now the temp gauge goes all the way up before the engine is even running and...

Well, I just checked for up and down motion in the distributor shaft while it's still mounted to the block and there is about 3/16ths up/down motion in it. Side to side it's steady and there isn't any movement. Is it supposed to go up and down that far or are you saying that this was the...

The reluctor and distributor shaft seem fine/no wobble. But the pickup coil that I replaced never really sat perfectly parallel to the fins on the reluctor, which may have led to rubbing, and thus the shavings. Voltage regulator is new. Battery is pretty new and tested. Alternator was replaced a...

It is running. It runs until it depletes the battery, and while it's running, the volts jump around on the gauge, so the alternator isn't working or something.

I'm not certain where those are! I just took off the whole intake because I left the country and the car was in a high crime area and then reconnected it when I got back. Where are these grounds at? I know of the one going from the negative post of the battery to the body. What else is there...

I have 74 duster with a 318. Just put the intake back on. I don't remember the gauge jumping like this all the time. Voltage regulator is pretty new and the wires going to it look okay. It's also firing out of the carb if I try to gas it, but it runs okay for a few moments and then dies as the...

Well I don't have a bulkhead connector anymore because I deleted it. Some person covered the whole connector in liquid nail and since I needed to trace everything, I just connected everything straight through the firewall with butt connectors. I did get the car running, but the temp gauge...

It's a 74 plymouth duster with a 318. Here are some pics of the wire in question. Please if anyone can confirm whether or not this is THE wire that goes on the pin, let me know.