Recent content by tbr1806

Thanks, I will see if I can feel a hole in the center of the pulley, I stick my finger in it and it felt like there was no hole, just rounded inside.

Wow, this is alot more complicated then I thought it would be. I have adjusted my fair share of valves (never mopar, mostly 4cyl engines and small 4 strokes) why did they make it so complicated.

Use the starter to turn the engine? How would I do that? I feel like it would turn to fast to get the valves lined up to adjust them.

Well I popped my valve cover to adjust the valves tonight and ran into an issue....what do you use to turn the engine? There is no nut to put a socket on the crankshaft pulley and now I have no idea how to turn the engine on this motor. Also, I believe most people are setting the last to .012...

Looking for a fast idle cam link for my holley 1945 carb. Thanks.

Not yet, I'm waiting on another set of hands for that.

Oo sorry, 74 Duster

I noticed a few spots on my windshield gaskets (front and rear) that don't look so good. I have had the car out in the rain yet but with all of the work I have been doing I don't want it raining inside of my car! Plus I would like to make sure there is no rust in the channels. How hard is it to...

Got the dash in and a few other small things

I don't have an EGR delete plate. Plus I hear it is "useful". I just want this stupid little canister gone

If I can eliminate it with out problems in would be willing to part with it.

No, I live in CT "antique" vehicles have no emissions or inspections. I'm not trying to remove the EGR, just the canister I'm pointing to. I believe it was on CA models only.

I have a 74 duster, it is a CA model and there is a solenoid or something that vacuum for the EGR passes through, not the vacuum amplifier. I have attached a picture, is there a way to delete this? It seems like unnessecary clutter to me.

I'm hoping to find replacement so they can be swapped out easier in the future. This will be a last resort method.

I see that a 4 pin unit can be used with a dual ballast, can I say it is safe to just order the part number that is on my original ICM regardless of whether or not I need a 5 pin?