Recent content by WietseR/T

I got a reply from Rhoads regarding lifter height, they are significantly higher than the current installed lifters which means in will need new push rods as well. So going with new lifters will push probably for another $500 with shipping and import charges. I will keep playing around for now...

Also makes me think about the current lifters i have installed. I don't know what type i have at the moment and don't know what effect my engines relative high oil pressure has on the lifters. Do in a normal situation hydraulic lifters stay at the same position at idle and "lowest" oil pressure...

I have adjustable roller rockers so i can make the adjustments. Although, I am leaning more towards the variable lifters to be honest. They really provide the reduced duration where the engine needs it, and restore to full lift right after the TC flash rpm, as AJ mentioned to me. That should...

Not sure if that is going to take enough duration and lift out of this cam..

Now i have .040" pre-load on the hydr lifter. Is it possible to change to solids on a hydraulic cam? What/how does that benefit? Does that also reduce duration?

Oh man, that must have been a real pain, bringing that block around shops to get the screw up's fixed. And then even denying they did not do that.... I guess a 440 will push a bit more air back to the intake compared to a 367, so being a BB it will worsen the situation compared to a SB. If i go...

So, as this cam has .008" @ 68* After BDC lift, the valve will close even later, it is more than likely the intake valve is fully closed in the 75* area. Yes, i agree that the when the cam was advance 14* the vacuum should have been higher as a lot less air is being pushed back in the intake...

This TC does seem a stranger though. It does flash relatively high but seems a tight model, that it works does not mean it is the right one behind this engine though. Anyway when time comes i will replace it with something new and known. So, guess that the question remains..why the manifold...

What i ment was, that when at idle in Neutral, i just hit the throttle a bit to rev it up to 1000-1200 rpm, but not maintaining that rpm but just let it drop again back to idle. At that time the revs jump, the tires rotate a little and when the rpm comes down the tires come to a stand still...

Giving the engine a little rev to 1000-1200 makes the tires rotate a bit but after stop turning again and just creep a little every now and then. I set the idle rpm to 800 rpm, which still keeps the tires stationairy. I also seems temperature sensitive as well, if the car has been off for 10...

Ok, so i checked what engine and transmission do as you mentioned. I had screwed around a bit before with the choke and had played with the idle adjustment, so at the first test it run around 900rpm idle and at that time the wheels did start to spin in Neutral. The speedo cable is broken but my...

Well explained how that works. As you said it is a very nice invention and actually really simple if you look at the small amount of parts, but to understand completely how they work is a different ball game with all these variables. I did not get to it today as i had other things to attend...

Ok, i did some research on that numbers. The 47339E12 did not show up anything related to any converter brands. The CH RG 130 seems a part number of the ring gear only, which seems to be manufactured by Sonnax Performance Converters. (the 130 stands for the 130 teeth) This ring gear is being...

Thx AJ, So the only difference between Park and Neutral are that in Park there is a pressure bleed off and the ratchet lock is engaged. I would say when the TC sprag is not working (either stuck or able to rotate in both directions) that this would give issues all the time? From the video, that...