just use machinest dye to check valves
valve grind compound leaves a line- right
but the valve gets bigger with heat and the line is no longer in the right place
you are not building a model A or Chevy stoveblolt
rumble got it right several pages ago
me- stroked 340
but wait- that's a 360
much easier parts availability and on the street cu in rule
cast cranks do not break and are a lot cheaper than forged
most power per dollar starts with a magnum takeout
look at it another way and start with heads
or...
good moove
make sure you have a good finish on your valve stems
some cheap valves have the finish of files
I put a fine finih with a Sunnen stem hone to give a nice crosshatch but a few strokes with some wet or dry paper works
what you are missing are normalized seat durations
looking at your list the clear winner is the shorter lunati
just looking at how much shorter @.050 and the lift
340 cam would suck on a 8.25 motor- it's way bigger
you want the best get mike jones 256@,006 cam has 460 lift
that crower post...
do not lap
determine valve or seat
you can check runout
or swap a different valve
if it's the seat the whole head has to come apart if grinding
using a cutter not so much
I touch all new valves, od hone the stems and check runout
chk the guide clerance seats etc
The 272@.004 duration on that summit cam pencils out to need about 9.7 compression ratio, same as 264 @.006
problem is it has no lift or area under the curve
what did you figure your compression is now that you have your heads?
did you post your deck clerance etc?
if you do have around 9.7 true...
just pencil it out both ways
just because you can do it does not mean you should
A 360 magnum may be less expensive to buid even if you have to buy a core
or just stick one in and go
and do not use that cam even if it's free
ixnay on the teflon seals
what size now
I like the 031 better than the 000 but nothing wrong with 9/16
use biggest that will fot in your inner spring
get viton seals