TTI's are leaking

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dusterbd13

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ive got an exhaust leak on the drivers side of my small block 70 duster. its not coming from the head or collector flanges, near as i can tell. that leaves the slip fit tube. full ceramic coated step headers and exhaust from TTI

has anyone had a leak here? if so, how did you fix it?
Michael
 
What did you use to seal the tubes together? You're supposed to use high temp silicone.
 
umm......

as far as i remember, i did not put anything in the slip joint. i dnt remember the directions saying to, either.

youd think for the money we spend, someone would mention stuff like this. as that you have to cut lakewood bellhousings, redesign your z-bar, etc.

these things even hit my steering column coupler.


anyway, youre supposed to RTV the slip joint?

Michael
 
Yup, you're sure nuff supposed to. I remember when I bought my Dougs for my 64 Valiant that was in the deestruckshuns along with a tube of high temp RTV. I would never assemble a slip fit header dry. You'll never get them apart because that is where moisture will build up and rust them sumbitches together everytime. Whether they're coated or not.
 
That's cool, but high temp silicone will seal as well as keep them from rusting.. So I know what my choice is.
 
My TTI's don't leak at the slip joint either. And there wasn't anything in the instructions about using any type of sealant. I did however coat the end of the slip tube with and industrial grade high temp anti seize lube and it appears to work well. They have been on the car for over 4 years and the tube came out of the collector pretty easy when I had them off this winter to replace the gaskets. I don't think I would want to seal it up with any silicone because one day they will need to come off and it will be a real pain to get loose!
 
416stroker said:
My TTI's don't leak at the slip joint either. And there wasn't anything in the instructions about using any type of sealant. I did however coat the end of the slip tube with and industrial grade high temp anti seize lube and it appears to work well. They have been on the car for over 4 years and the tube came out of the collector pretty easy when I had them off this winter to replace the gaskets. I don't think I would want to seal it up with any silicone because one day they will need to come off and it will be a real pain to get loose!
Click to expand...

Damn. The day I couldn't pull some tubes apart with silicone between them would be the day I classify myself a wimp and give up the hobby. Yall are too much.
 
what did you have to do for mods im putting a lakewood and ttis with a 4sd mine car is a 69 gts 340
 
no sealer on the slipjoint on my headers either and no problem getting them apart and no leaks either..
how is the fit of the slipjoint? its very easy to overexpand a piece of pipe when building the headers
 
the fit has always been a little loose, which is why im beginning to believe its that after changing out flange and collector gaskets multiple times on the drivers side.

as far as mods to fit the 4 speed:

you have to HEAVILY notch the passengers side of the lakewood bellhousing and block plate to clear the header. you also have to bend or move the lower leg of the z-bar to be able to get it to a full range of motion. also, if i remember right, you have to install the z-bar and linkage while youre installing the header. it seems like i remember not being able to get it in afterwards.

michael
 
dusterbd13 said:
the fit has always been a little loose, which is why im beginning to believe its that after changing out flange and collector gaskets multiple times on the drivers side.

as far as mods to fit the 4 speed:

you have to HEAVILY notch the passengers side of the lakewood bellhousing and block plate to clear the header. you also have to bend or move the lower leg of the z-bar to be able to get it to a full range of motion. also, if i remember right, you have to install the z-bar and linkage while youre installing the header. it seems like i remember not being able to get it in afterwards.

michael
Click to expand...
if you have a mufflershop close by that you realy thrust they may be able to just slightly expand the #7 pipe to fit perfect into its slipjoint but there is a risk that they overexpand it. if you would have lived close by i would have done it for free for you :thumblef:
 
Same a Demon 408 put three sets together and no leaks. I did on the last set use locking Stage8 bolts. NIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIICCE!
 
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