heads for 340

-
S

sqrelnts

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2007
Messages
83
Reaction score
2
Location
Algona, IA
I'm in the beginning stages of trying to round up parts for a 68 Dart street car. Probably wont see any strip, just stop light racing and sumthing to make the chevys take notice.
I've got a '70 340 block w/ stock crank and rods and a LD340 intake I am planning on using. My main question is what would be a good pick for heads? Ive been reading up on previous posts, and have found some great info. However i cant seem to decide which way to go.
I've got a set of 915 J's, 587's, and a set of X's, all need everything done to them. I've also got a line on a set of 308's that would need gone through. I am leaning towards 2.02's w/ a little bowl work in whichever head might be the better choice. My main concern is spending money right the first time as it is going to be a budget build, but would also like the best performance i could get for the money spent as well. Would i be ahead to put 2.02's in the 587's if they already have hardened seats and use them? Or spend a couple hundred and get the 308's and have 2.02's put in them? Would i see much gain with the 308's?
thanks for any input.
 
When I did my J-heads for my race car 2.02/1.60... Go with a chevy speck valve +.100 over, same length as a stock Chrysler valve with the bronze guild... Parts are cheaper, smaller stem, 11/32 vs 3/8 = more flow, less weight, chevy speck locks and retainers and the springs are the same dia... Since these are aftermarket parts they arent really brand specific, just less money... Going to do the same thing to a set of 308 heads for a 340 build I am going to do...
 
You would be better off getting a set of RHS or Eddys (if you want to spend a tad more or want aluminum heads). Buy the time you port them, valves, hardened seats, or springs and retainers you could've bought a set of better flowing aftermarket heads.
 
Well I know free is a whole lot cheaper than any aftermarket head ....LOL I just traded my machinist about 10 350 chevy core engines for all my head work and the new stainless valves, guilds, springs, locks, seals and retainers... But all i'm after is a warmed up 340 to drive on the street for my 67 Barracuda... Picked up the 308's for nothing, well I made money on the van I junked they came off of... The core 350's picked up for nothing too... Sounds like sqrelnts is after just a nice street car too... I want to drive it and not get 6 MPG's Ive seen plenty bone stock 340's that ran pretty dang good...
 
If you have to build any of the heads you have, you may as well get new heads. The RHS heads are very nice. What power lever are you looking for and what is your budget?
 
StrokerScamp said:
If you have to build any of the heads you have, you may as well get new heads. The RHS heads are very nice. What power lever are you looking for and what is your budget?
Click to expand...

There is a wisdom to these words. :D
RHS is the screaming deal for iron heads these days......Brian at IMM has done some good things with them from everything I hear , so I would talk to him probably.
For Aluminum , Eddies are O.K. for the money.
They still might want some money thrown at them depending on what you want to do with the motor , but are a decent part at a decent price.
After you re-do a set you have laying around , it can get into some real dollars to do it right.
Guides , seats on the exhaust if they don't have hardened seats , quality valve job and minimal porting , springs , keepers and locks , surfacing , magnafluxing.......we're knocking on a grand easy now.
Probably a little more.
The aftermarket is catching up to small block MoPars and it kind of runs parallel to the " should I recondition stock rods " debate.
There are a couple good options out there now.
 
A few yrs. ago I made the mistake of rebuilding a set of stock heads that needed everything and having a comp. valve job done on them. About fell over when I saw the bill. Machine work ain't cheap. Could have bought a brand new set of RHS for only about $200 more and they would have out powered the stock heads. If it were me I'd sell what you've got and put the money towards a set of RHS heads.
 
I agree with new heads unless you can get the work done cheaply, er, inexpensively. There is nothing wrong with a stock head and working it up and porting them out. But the cost of doing so must be factored in.

Also, do not assume the new head is a OOTB and ready to be bolted on and go. The new head should be checked out at an additional cost. Something most flag wavers of a new head do not tell you.

So, if the new head is $200 more, add an extra amount, (Check with your machinist for price) to the new head price and think about it all.

The extra amount could be worth doing the OE head and with a bowl porting as well.

It is a balancing act.
 
Yeah, at some point building stock heads, you meet a point of diminished returns. If the stock heads cost say 500-600 bucks to build (which is typical) then it really becomes uneconomical. I wouldn't put that much in 30 plus year old castings when I could turn around and have RHS heads for a little more coin.

But see, that's me. I can do a lot of my own head work at home. Clean, magnaflux, basic valve jobs, install and get spring height correct, so I can save myself some money on the front end. I plan on getting everything to do all head work eventually, but like everyone else, the economy has slowed me down.
 
Ah, HA! Exactly! Doing your own work can be a huge advantage in head work, or anything really. Since Stroker can get a set of heads right, sending them out for a porting becomes a good option for a budget head set.

If doing such work in your area cost $500, then that is a $500 savings that could be rolled over into a porting job.

While the OE casting are harder to port out to a level of after market heads, even doing so may not be the best way considering the new heads more than likely have a better port to port as cast than the older heads. As cast port shape has a lot to do with it. Older heads may not have the abilty to flow as well as a newer head ported or not. And if so, the amount of work and/or port shape/volume may not be in your best interest.

Again, a lot depends on the build, target of performance and cost.

If you can get a older head to the level you want without spending a mint on them, go for it.
Your heads can do what is needed. Cost is the barrier. (Or want.)
 
Finding somebody honest to check them out is key.....OR having someone you trust TEACH you how to check them out. Some machine shops will gouge you. I have had one in Macon years ago that was pretty unscupulous. They put guides and seats in everything. Lots of times you can be dollars ahead by knowing how to check that stuff out, or having a friend who knows what to look for show you how.
 
the 308s would be an excellent choice ...i really like 308s with 2.02 valves they are a great head but they are prone to cracking between the valves but as rob said it might be better to go new
 
Maybe I should do a simple how to about checkin heads out? Would that be somethin yall would be interested in?
 
73SwingerBuild said:
I'd be curious to see what your approach is. If it's being put to a vote, put me down for a "yes".
Click to expand...

Then I'll have to figure out where to find some heads. I need some big block heads. My Hemi heads need exhaust guides. When I find some big block heads, I will do a how to on inspecting them. Depending on their condition, I might can go a little farther. I'm broke far as buyin anything big right now, so it may be a bit.
 
Thanks alot!

I'd even volunteer my cylinder heads for the inspection (or sell them to the OP, just to keep this relavent) if you were closeby. They are J-Heads, which have been ported and polished and had higher end springs added and the 2.02 intake valve, with the stock 1.60 exhaust valve. I expect shipping cylinder heads is fairly expensive though.
 
I would suspect as they are heavy indeed.
 
73SwingerBuild said:
Thanks alot!

I'd even volunteer my cylinder heads for the inspection (or sell them to the OP, just to keep this relavent) if you were closeby. They are J-Heads, which have been ported and polished and had higher end springs added and the 2.02 intake valve, with the stock 1.60 exhaust valve. I expect shipping cylinder heads is fairly expensive though.
Click to expand...

About $80 to ship them both through fedex
 
thanks for the insight and sugg. I dropped off a couple pairs of heads to the machine shop last week to have them checked and see just what they would need. After some looking i did find a set of 2.02/1.6 valves with retainers and keepers i forgot that i had, so that would be a little money saved. I hear ya on the new vs old cost, I have thought about aftermarket and have not ruled that option out, guess I'll wait and see just how much I would have to put into the old heads and decide from there. Unfortunatly, I am on a budget, so I'll probably have to go whichever way is less expensive, unless like you guys say its going to be within a couple hundred of new.
73swinger, I would be possibly interested in those j heads if you did want to sell them.
 
I agree, you need to get new heads checked out my buddy's RHS heads the valve seized and piston bent the valve, two main things to get checked out is valve clearance and the valve job runout. New heads are a great deal especially if you aren't gonna do your own porting but if it's a mild build under 400hp any 340/360 will do, also don't forget about EQ heads lighter than RHS there real heavy suckers.
 
It's not true that ANY head you buy that can be bolted on needs to be checked over. Depends on if it was assembly lined or put together by a good shop.

If someone bought an RHS head and it stuck the valve there are some reasons it may have done so, tune up and sizing are two. They come bare, unless something has changed, so someone had to have put them together.

EQ's are a solid head that works well but use magnum stud rockers in stock form.

Start the flag waving! LOL

Any of the factory heads listed in the initial post, except the 308's, are basically the same when valve size is comparable. No huge differences in stock form from a port perspective.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top