Trouble Removing 4 Speed Trans

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Franko

Franko

FABO Gold Member
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I am trying to remove my 833 out of a 69 Dart. I've slid it back some, but the case hits a cross brace in the tunnel and it won't slide any further. Doesn 't seem like I could lower it because the main drive pinion and spline is still in the throw out bearing and fork.

Any advice? Thanks.
 
Small block, remove the distr cap so it does not get broken.
Put a block under the front of the motor and jack it up a little to get the trans down lower.
 
easier to remove the z-bar so the trans can pivot down when you take the cross member out .

if you dont remove the Z-bar it will just fight you and risk breaking the little nylon bushings in it
 
Ahhhhh, the luxury of a B body..................(B for "big" that is)
 
Trailbeast is on the money, I've done it that way too. Is the bell housing still attached? If you don't have 2 jacks, you can also pull the 4 bolts holding the trans to the bell, let the trans hang a little. It'll pull down on the back of the engine allowing you to pull the trans..only as much as needed to clear everything , you don't want too much weight hanging on your input shaft :lol:
 
So Trailbeast, it sounds like I leave in the cross bolts on the engine mounts and jack up the front of the engine to tilt the trans downward. And the engine mounts can take the strain. It sounds like I need to remove the Z bar to do this.

I wonder why the service manual didn't mention this.
 
Yea, I was assuming the Z bar was already off if you were pulling the trans.
You are not going to hurt the mounts any, as it's only going to need a couple of degrees at the engine to make a lot of movement at the trans.
 
Much easier to separate the bellhousing from the transmission and pull it that way. Ask me how I know...

-Mike
 
Maybe I'm stubborn but I find it easier to remove the shift linkage/ shifter headers starter center link oil filter distributer rad fan and yank the whole thing out. In one piece. Engine and all, it is a lot of extra work but I don't make as many new swear words doing it like that . then I can get a really good look at motor mounts and everything. Clean everything up . Just a habit I got in and it gets a lot faster / easier every time you do it .
 
jcmmurray said:
Maybe I'm stubborn but I find it easier to remove the shift linkage/ shifter headers starter center link oil filter distributer rad fan and yank the whole thing out. In one piece. Engine and all, it is a lot of extra work but I don't make as many new swear words doing it like that . then I can get a really good look at motor mounts and everything. Clean everything up . Just a habit I got in and it gets a lot faster / easier every time you do it .
Click to expand...

You got to be joking............
 
As said, pull dist. cap, possibly fan shroud, zbar bell stud.
I use blocks of wood under rear of engine with jack and lower rear of engine down enough to clear crossmember. This could get ugly if you don`t have help or a trans jack. I made an adapter for my floor jack to do this by myself.
 
I finally got the 4 speed out thanks to all your advice. I also removed the Z bar and distributor cap, as recommended. I don't have a fan shroud to remove. I had blocks under the rear of the oil pan, which I lowered a little bit. I was surprised that the engine stopped lowering when it stopped on the cross link. I hope that that shouldn't have harmed anything, but does anybody have any thoughts on that?

I have an old trans jack, which I slowly lowered and pushed to the rear while watching to make sure the main drive pinion and spline weren't hitting the bell housing or damaging the throw out bearing. It sure was a tight squeeze and took 5 or 6 cycles to monitor until I succeeded in removing the trans.

And is that trans ever heavy. A few year back I removed a Muncie 4 speed which was a piece of cake in comparison. I am a Mopar newby. I looked up the weight of both. The Muncie appears to be about 75 lbs and the A-833 looks like it weights about 120 lbs.

Thanks again for your help.
 
i would imagine it's easier to pull the whole dang thing, engine and all. :)

you say cross link? in reference to the steering center link i assume, should be just fine.
 
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