CONTROL FREAKS IFS A-Body 440 setup

-
W

wot69valiant

Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2013
Messages
22
Reaction score
1
Location
texas
I have an opportunity to buy a Control Freaks complete setup for Abody big block. Already has discs on and supposedly never used. Bought and put together, never installed. I need some good advice on system. GOOD/BAD??? All other discussions on here rant about stealing design and everything else, I don't want to hear that. I just want to know if it's a good system for a 1969 Valiant that will have a 440(hopefully stroked). Possibly has Wilwood 11" discs with Carrera Coilovers. Instead of buying all parts for BB conversion to Slant Six K-member and Hotchkis TVS. Please give me any feedback on GOOD or BAD system.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    19.4 KB · Views: 1,321
Looks like a drag race only setup to me.

I know there was a post a while back about a CF mishap on the streets. Wasn't good.


I believe Alterkation or Hemmy Denny are the ways to go if your building a street carver.

I run the RMS Alterkation with Ridetech shocks and love it. I have 5 yrs and about 5000 miles on mine.

If your drag racing then I guess you could take a chance....looks real flimsy to me though.


Mop
 
That's the type of review I was looking for. Thanks Mop. No one had any bad reviews in the couple the couple threads that spoke about it. It was always sating they stole RMS design. One guy said he loved it though. That's it. $3500 for whole setup so I was thinking about cost as well. All conversion pieces from Slant 6 to BB. Plus discs and steering box. Thought about Hotchkis TVS as well. Mainly street use.
 
I am sittin here lookin at the top of the shock/spring mounts. How are they supported? I see zero support for them at the top where the shock bolts on. Does that attach to the car somehow? If not, I think that would be a really weak area.
 
Pictures from freakride.com. Supposedly same as Alterkation just rounded.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    41.6 KB · Views: 923
The "extensions" on the cantilevered tie rod ends are a concern, Stress at that joint is high, for the street I wouldn't, race track...ok..but I still don't like it!
It has been written in regards to this very item (tie rod) in some of the Mopar mags.
 
wot69valiant said:
Pictures from freakride.com. Supposedly same as Alterkation just rounded.
Click to expand...

That appears to back the shock mount arm right up against the frame rail or maybe even bolt to it.
 
So far the the CF system is not sounding all that great. Not much about it on web searches either. Alterk is all over the place. So for the money, convert Slant 6 K member to BB, Hotchkis TVS, and discs all around. Can't afford Alterk or I would.
 
Well you got what you got. I am sure you can make it work and work out any bugs it may have.
 
Haven't bought any system yet. Looking for a good system for my car. If it's good enough for one why would it not be good enough for my car?? Hence why I am on this thread asking. Does anyone that has the system or know of someone with it believe it is a good system?????? All in all I just want a good system for the money.
 
Well let me ask this. What do you plan to do with your car?
 
I just want an all around good set up for car. Maybe road course/pro touring and strip every once in a awhile. Mainly just driving around, and then have it be sturdy enough to play around with. It'll be a 440 car so not a lot of auto cross, just want it to be sturdy enough for when I do get eager to play, it'll be good.
 
You should talk to Jim Lusk. He is the suspension guru here as far as I'm concerned. He'll probably tell you what I am fixin to. Keep the stock suspension. Nothing wrong with using other things, but from the sound of it, a well thought stock K frame suspension maybe with poly bushings is all you really need. JMO.
 
Again as far as stock suspension. It is a Slant 6 going to 440 so I know I'd have to change some things. What is Jim Lusks screen name on here omit does he have one that I can PM him. I want nice, easy, and easy to maintain while being strong for a 440 in tight turns (auto cross) if I want to do it!! Thanks for all your help guys.
 
For $ 3500.00 I'm pretty sure you can get into a HemiDenny Unit for that price, with brakes, steering and motor mounts of your choice. send him a P.M. for more specifics
 
The above setup is only to be used if you have a full rollcage in your car, with proper extentions running towards the front of the (lightweight) car.
With a flimsy suspension setup like that, there's not much anymore connecting/supporting the frame rails.
I've seen bicycle frames that were made beefier than that.

Also the rack-setup probably increases the turning radius of the car, and it also seems to throw the Ackerman angles out the window.
 
Outstanding reply BBMopar! Thank you. I'll try HemiDenny and see what I can come up with. CF is out. Thanks for all replies!
 
I'm using the HDK in my 69 Valiant with a low deck motor long way to go but looks good
 

Attachments

  • DSCF0284.jpg
    31.9 KB · Views: 808
You don't need a coilover suspension conversion. If you're willing to pay $3,500 for one of those, do this and have your ENTIRE car done.

1.06 (or bigger) Firm Feel torsion bars - $355
Tubular UCA’s (PST, FFI, etc) $350
Adjustable strut rods (PST SR 14385) $279
Solid tie rod sleeves (PST SAS 440S) $49
LCA boxing plate (PST LCAPLTMOP621) $15
Greasable LCA pins (FFI w bushings) $135

Hellwig Sway bars
Tubular front 1 1/8” #55904 $175
Solid rear 3/4” #6907 $237

Afco leaf springs
20231M (121 lb) $320
(or 20231's, 142lb, if you prefer, $340)

1” bushings for shackles
Energy suspension 2-2117G $9

Hotchkis RCD shocks
(RCD-70-56663) $400

Grand total so far is... $2,324

Go ahead and add /6 to 440 mounts $177
A Bergman Auto Delphi power steering box $675

And you're at $3176

Since the brakes were included in that package, add Dr. Diff's 10.95" kit for $445

and now you're at $3,621.

But you've done the suspension on your ENTIRE car. If you really need to compare apples to apples drop the rear springs, rear sway bar, and rear shocks since the coilover kits don't address the rear of the car at all. That puts the total back at $2,864.

I list everything above to compare to the TVS kit, and I think that the above set up would be in the same performance ballpark. The Hotchkis set up has some nice parts, but not everything is needed and some stuff that should be included isn't. Also, I include some of the parts above because with the exception of the lower control arms, all the parts will be NEW, so no concerns about damaged or worn out parts. You could do it cheaper without the new pivots, by rebuilding the stock UCA's etc. But that's my .02. I think a car set up with all the above parts, a good set of tires and a competitive alignment would be in exactly the same ballpark as any of the coilover conversion cars as far as handling is concerned. I know some folks disagree with that, but realistically the average driver or even the occasional weekend track warrior is unlikely to notice much difference at all. You'd really have to put a stop watch to it, and at that point I think tire choice and shock valving would probably play just as big a role.
 
72bluNblu said:
You don't need a coilover suspension conversion. If you're willing to pay $3,500 for one of those, do this and have your ENTIRE car done.

1.06 (or bigger) Firm Feel torsion bars - $355
Tubular UCA’s (PST, FFI, etc) $350
Adjustable strut rods (PST SR 14385) $279
Solid tie rod sleeves (PST SAS 440S) $49
LCA boxing plate (PST LCAPLTMOP621) $15
Greasable LCA pins (FFI w bushings) $135

Hellwig Sway bars
Tubular front 1 1/8” #55904 $175
Solid rear 3/4” #6907 $237

Afco leaf springs
20231M (121 lb) $320
(or 20231's, 142lb, if you prefer, $340)

1” bushings for shackles
Energy suspension 2-2117G $9

Hotchkis RCD shocks
(RCD-70-56663) $400

Grand total so far is... $2,324

Go ahead and add /6 to 440 mounts $177
A Bergman Auto Delphi power steering box $675

And you're at $3176

Since the brakes were included in that package, add Dr. Diff's 10.95" kit for $445

and now you're at $3,621.

But you've done the suspension on your ENTIRE car. If you really need to compare apples to apples drop the rear springs, rear sway bar, and rear shocks since the coilover kits don't address the rear of the car at all. That puts the total back at $2,864.

I list everything above to compare to the TVS kit, and I think that the above set up would be in the same performance ballpark. The Hotchkis set up has some nice parts, but not everything is needed and some stuff that should be included isn't. Also, I include some of the parts above because with the exception of the lower control arms, all the parts will be NEW, so no concerns about damaged or worn out parts. You could do it cheaper without the new pivots, by rebuilding the stock UCA's etc. But that's my .02. I think a car set up with all the above parts, a good set of tires and a competitive alignment would be in exactly the same ballpark as any of the coilover conversion cars as far as handling is concerned. I know some folks disagree with that, but realistically the average driver or even the occasional weekend track warrior is unlikely to notice much difference at all. You'd really have to put a stop watch to it, and at that point I think tire choice and shock valving would probably play just as big a role.
Click to expand...

All very good but you still have the k frame - steering box - torsion bars - steering linkage etc taking up a lot of space the tubular set up is a lot cleaner looking
 
"All very good but you still have the k frame - steering box - torsion bars - steering linkage etc taking up a lot of space the tubular set up is a lot cleaner looking"


do you want a car this is dependable, performs well and is proven? or do you want a car that looks like it does?

there are two tubular systems that have had nothing but great review. the rms consistently proves itself. the hemidenny system gets just as good of reviews. i dont think the average person can drive past the limits of a properly updated and adjusted factory suspension on the street.
 
dodge71demon said:
All very good but you still have the k frame - steering box - torsion bars - steering linkage etc taking up a lot of space the tubular set up is a lot cleaner looking
Click to expand...

Cleaner looking vs tried and true parts with millions of miles on them?

I think the desired outcome was handling and not how it looks.

My two cents.

Mike
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top