Time crunch & no spark :(

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slimjim

slimjim

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So I've delayed asking for help for awhile now but, with one day left, I need help. About a month ago my bcuda just decided it wouldn't start. So I went through some tests and sure enough, no spark. I popped my dizzy cap off and found both centri adv springs had popped off and were stuck to the magnetic pickup. So I took it out and replaced the springs. Still nothing. I have the summit ignition box which has an LED light as an indicator and while I'm cranking there's no flash however, once I stop it flashes once... Not sure if that means anything. I've got power going to the box and all my connections are right. Any ideas? The car is hard wired for only the fuel pump, alternator, ignition box, and starter.
 

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Sounds like no power to the ign box while in START position. Check that first. Needs to be power in both START & RUN key positions.
 
I have them wired seperately. There's a toggle for my ignition and then a push button for the starter. It ran fine with the same set up till a month ago. I am by no means electrically inclined so this is irritating. I'm not sure why the box wouldn't have power as it's cranking.
 
George R said:
Sounds like no power to the ign box while in START position. Check that first. Needs to be power in both START & RUN key positions.
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yep ^ what he said or enough of a starter draw to cause the voltage to drop low enough the ignition box doesn't work.
 
Are you running a ballast resistor?
 
Ballast resistor... Wish I knew what that was. I wired it as per the instruction manual.
 

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The only grounds I have are the fuel pump (works fine) the alternator (working to my knowledge), the Neg bat cable is grounded to the Aluminum head, and the ign box should be grounded via the mounting holes right?
 
no, the wiring diagram shows a Black ground wire. that should either be connected to the battery or other good ground source
 
Are you running the Chrysler ignition box too? Why? That means you are running two ignition systems stacked on top of each other. Or am I missin something? If you are runnin the coil designed for the Chrysler ignition box, it cannot see 12V and that's most likely the problem. A toasted coil. If it is, then you need a coil designed for use without a ballast that needs a full 12V and eliminate the Chrysler box.
 
I have the block grounded to the body. I was told either the frame or the body.
 
I'm using a crane cams fireball coil. I'm not using any of the original wiring.
 
Are you sure the coil is for use with no ballast?
 
Thats a pretty easy hookup. There should be a diagnostic led pulse on that box if the ditributor is doing its thing and the box had power. What is the min voltage that box can use? If its a Mallory clone, it can work down to about 8 volts. I would check the distributor pick-up distance .008 think? Put volt meter across battery and then crank, see what the 13.2v goes down to. That box, Toggle and push button looks to be about as simple as you can wire it. Pick ups can go bad but not real common.
 
Do you have the small red wire to switched power (old coil 12v feed)? That looks like your ignition relay power sense wire. If thats dead,.....ignition wont turn on.
 
It's the Mallory clone. Are you talking about this distance? (See pic). I'm not sure if the coil is designed without the resistor or not. It worked for a couple months without it.
 

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Yeah that's the gap. Looks kinda wide too.
 
Yes, thats the reluctor gap and it looks pretty good from here, but check with brass feeler.
 
I have that switched red wire connected to a toggle then connected to the Positive terminal with a 7.5 amp fuse Inbetween.
 
Put your coil high voltage wire close to a ground. Disconnect the 2 pin wire from the distributor. Turn the ignition to the run position. Using a wire short across the 2 pin connector the remove the wire. If you get a spark from the coil wire to ground the problem is in the distributor pickup.
 
Yesyes there is a screw on the base of the pickup, loosen and adjst to spec and tighten.
 
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