Fuel Delivery Problem

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mad accountant

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Plymouth, MN
Been fighting this intermittent problem all summer, and have had just about enough. Early this year my 69 BB Dart wouldn't start, no gas to the carb. I was pretty sure there was gas in the tank but I put a couple of gallons in anyway. A little down the carb and it fired right up. Ran fine for a couple of weeks (though I only take it out once or twice a week), during which time I put a new fuel sender in it, the one from Laysons, 3/8 line though I only have the 5/16 up to the motor. Then, it started running like it was misfiring or starving after 15-30 minutes, though the symptoms were not very noticeable-until you idled for a minute or two at which time it would die.

After doing this a couple of times I finally figured it was the fuel pump. I did blow air back through the lines just to make sure it wasn't plugged somewhere; no problems. Replaced the pump, no problems for about a month and then it started happening again. Put a clear fuel filter on it just so I could see what was happening, and sure enough after about 15 minutes of idling in the driveway from a cold start, you see the level drop in the filter, bubbles coming up from the pump until it was nearly dry and the engine dies. Next morning, fires right up, though the level in the filter shows about 1/3 -1/2 full.

Today, just to start ruling things out, I pulled the fuel line off the inlet on the pump, ran it to a gas can on the ground and turned the motor over. Not a drop ever went through the filter. So now I'm pretty sure it's the new fuel pump (yes, standard parts house version) but I want to make sure I've covered all the bases here. Anything else I should be looking at? Should I try another new mechanical pump or bag it and go straight for the electric? Kinda leaning this direction because I'm also thinking pushrod or cam eccentric, and an electric pump would rule those out....forever. I should probably mention that the gas in the tank was relatively fresh, and the only change in the last 3 years has been the fuel sender and fuel pump this year. Carb is Eddy 1407 on a .30 over 383, fuel line routing is stock.

Anything else for which I should test, go with another mechanical or an electric? I'll take recommendations on a mechanical or electric pump if anyone has one they've used and has been reliable.
 
Standard part house fuel pump is Airtech brand / Chinese crap. You can buy a Carter pump through RockAuto online.
Any pump should have a small amount of grease at its arm pivot. From there it's supposed to get splash oil from timing chain. I always put additional grease in a new pump anyway.
 
You have ruled out the screen on the pick up tube being plugged? Before swapping out a lot of parts, how about running a line from a gas can to the fuel pump?
C
 
You have ruled out the screen on the pick up tube being plugged? Before swapping out a lot of parts, how about running a line from a gas can to the fuel pump?
C

Ran a line from a gas can to the pump....nada. Pickup screen is new, got bubbles in the tank when I blew air through the lines.
 
The eccentric on your camshaft that drives the pump rod may be toast.... When you pull the pump again pull the plug underneath it and see if the rod will fall out or can be pulled out. If not it may be mushroomed on the cam side. Redfish is right about the Airtex pumps. I had several issues with them as well. On my charger as a temp fix I built up the arm with a wire welder about a tenth of an inch and got the thing in a travel range that would draw fuel. The carter mechanical pump is best if you can find one.
 
If you sent compressed air into the tank through the fuel supply tube, The screen is probably no longer a factor. Odds are it blew right off the end of the pick up tube and is now floating around in the tank. I don't know what amount of air it takes to do it.
 
The eccentric on your camshaft that drives the pump rod may be toast....

This ^^, and I would add, it's quite possible you just got a junk pump from the git go.

OP, why did you change the pump in the first place? Same problem? If so, I would look the the eccentric maybe.
 
Could be the fuel pump push rod is worn. Some one might know the proper length here.
 
Could be the fuel pump push rod is worn. Some one might know the proper length here.

Posted a request for the proper pushrod length a while back, got a lot of don't know's and never thought to check's, which is understandable. Can't find it published anywhere either. Did hear that the new ones you can buy are about as good as everything else coming out of China these days though. Maybe someone who does know will chime in this time around.
 
This ^^, and I would add, it's quite possible you just got a junk pump from the git go.

OP, why did you change the pump in the first place? Same problem? If so, I would look the the eccentric maybe.

Swapped out the pump because I knew I had gas and the lines were clear, but got nothing to the carb (except at RPM above idle AFTER putting some gas down the carb to get it started). couldn't find any info on the pushrod length and figured it was a long shot that it went bad, so went with the pump. The pushrod did slide out of the block on it's own when I removed the pump, but I don't recall taking it all the way out and inspecting it.
 
Think I found the problem. Looks like .25 has been ground off the pushrod, here's a pic of the new one and the old. Truthfully I have no idea how worn the original was when I rebuilt the engine, but I'm pretty sure it wasn't obviously ground the way it is now. Anyone have any thoughts on what went wrong here? I saw when ordering a new pushrod that there steel tipped and bronze tipped rods; I got the steel tip rod as I'm assuming my Comp 268H is a cast cam not billet. Are these pushrods typically uni-directional, or does it not matter which end contacts the cam? The new pushrod has no indication that one end is different than the other.
 

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