budget 383 build!

-
zac_F71

zac_F71

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 4, 2011
Messages
1,367
Reaction score
100
Location
Clitherall MN 56524
SO I realized I want to drive the car and burn a little tire by this summer SO I'm doing a budget of budget builds with the 383 I have with my tax return + a little cash out of pocket-

71 Demon -

67 383 -
.030" hyper pistons (KB162's)
shim head gaskets
Comp PP292H (247/254 @.050" / .509")
Proform 1.5 rockers
stock machined "346" 71 440hp heads w/ good springs
Edelbrock torker 383 single plane intake (subject to change)
stock A727 w/ shift kit/ 4.2 band lever
3.23 gears and a 275/60-15 BFG T/A
Heddman headers, 2.5" exhaust w/ X pipe, and Dynomax Ultraflows
 
Wrong gear ratio, try 4.10's at the very least.
 
Why does no one want to use the KB400,s? I believe that is a better choice for the 383. Slightly better quench.
 
I'm no stranger to 383s, but with that cam and intake, and 323s, it will be a pig out of the hole! You wouldn't even spin the tires, lol, either go 410's or change cam and intake.
 
make sure you get the comp up in the 9.5-10:1 range!

run a performer RPM intake especially if you want to run 3:23 gears. Id also look into a good converter. id run a 4500 stall dynamic with your combo and 3;91 rear gear at the least.
 
No nothing has been bought except the intake (bought in a group purchase and I'd prefer to get a Performer RPM over the torker).. the cam and intake are open to discussion/ recommendation - as well as a stall converter..

I just want to get it together to burn tire and have fun with it, that simple.. I do not want to change the gears - I still plan to turbo the car..

I'm honestly going to look at a rebuilt 71 383 tomorrow for $1,000 so I will probably do an inspection on that and do little up grades while it's torn down (the Milodon pan, MP windage tray, new cam if it's stock or doesn't know specs, rockers, valve covers, RPM intake, if it has stock valve springs I'll replace those with the Comp one's on my 440 heads, and a couple new seals)
 
if your just wanting to burn rubber, build it to stock specs. your parts selection will turn a 383 into a slug , unless you add steep gears and at least a 3500 stall converter.
 
Ok guys starting over.. I bought the 71 383hp and it is mostly original - It has been resealed basically.

SO I plan to tear it down to inspect it and reseal it - going to add a double roller timing chain, small cam, valve springs, performer RPM intake(or Mopar equivalent), shim head gaskets, underdrive crank pulley, and a retrofit high amp alternator for an electric fan and relaying the head lights (makes them brighter)

Looking at a Comp 270H (224/224 @.050" / .470" 110*)(run Comp springs from my other "346" heads), Weiand Action Plus intake, Holley 750, and Heddman 1 3/4" headers, 2.5" X pipe/ dynomax ultraflows. stock electronic ignition and probably a 2500 stall

Which I need help with - everything I look at is neutral balance, why are there not balanced flex plates/converters? Must they need to be balanced after purchase?
 
sounds like you are on the right track. if the 383 has a cast crank a B+M 10237 flexplate is balanced for a neutral converter
 
zac_F71 said:
No nothing has been bought except the intake (bought in a group purchase and I'd prefer to get a Performer RPM over the torker).. the cam and intake are open to discussion/ recommendation - as well as a stall converter..
Click to expand...

zac_F71 said:
Ok guys starting over.. I bought the 71 383hp and it is mostly original - It has been resealed basically.

SO I plan to tear it down to inspect it and reseal it - going to add a double roller timing chain, small cam, valve springs, performer RPM intake(or Mopar equivalent), shim head gaskets, underdrive crank pulley, and a retrofit high amp alternator for an electric fan and relaying the head lights (makes them brighter)

Looking at a Comp 270H (224/224 @.050" / .470" 110*)(run Comp springs from my other "346" heads), Weiand Action Plus intake, Holley 750, and Heddman 1 3/4" headers, 2.5" X pipe/ dynomax ultraflows. stock electronic ignition and probably a 2500 stall
Click to expand...

Tough stuff make s Mopar 100amp alternator in a single wire or 3 wire. I run the single on mine and I love it.

Glad you went with the performer RPM.

I don't think you'll be happy with that cam. I have run with much success the MPP 242/.528 cam twice now. I think you'll want a cam a little bigger than the one you proposed. I'd also lean you in the direction of a solid cam.

That stall is very low assuming it is a modern convertor. I run a 3500 and it barely footbrakes to 1200 RPM but flashes to 3500. Get a quality custom convertor. You'll be much happier.

I'd recommend going with a simple, modern ignition HEI or MSD.
 
ok, your on the right track.

#1 you need to find out if your engine is internal or external balance. Im pretty sure its going to be internal. that is why most converters are neutral balance.

#2 If you really want a fun car that performs well your going to need a looser converter then 2500. I have a hughes 3500 id let go cheap. trust me you need more converter especially with the 3:23 rear gear.

#3 Your going to need more cam shaft but with a smallish overlap to keep cylinder pressure up. If your wanting to keep the stock valve train (i would step up and get quality stuff now cause your going to want to upgrade later) your gonna have to stay hydraulic. The 383 loves rev's so i would go solid lifter right out of the gate. I like the comps extreme energy line or the lunati voodoo.

#4 spend the money and get the performer rpm intake. it will work best with your mild combo and when you step up it will still perform well with a more radical set up.

#5 get a good oil pump and windage tray. Id run a mellings high volume with at least a 6 qt hemi pan and windage tray.
 
younggun2.0 said:
ok, your on the right track.


#3 Your going to need more cam shaft but with a smallish overlap to keep cylinder pressure up. If your wanting to keep the stock valve train (i would step up and get quality stuff now cause your going to want to upgrade later) your gonna have to stay hydraulic. The 383 loves rev's so i would go solid lifter right out of the gate. I like the comps extreme energy line or the lunati voodoo.
.
Click to expand...

Try this on for size.

Crane #681241
Duration 248/258@.050
Lift .500/.520
112 LSA
 
From personal experience please do not buy the pro form rockers!!! I made that mistake about 8 yrs ago for my old 340. they are not even close to the 1.5 ratio they were advertising to be!!! The closest rocker was 1.47! The rest were around 1.4! There is a reason there around $200 bucks my friend. I ponyed up for comp pro magnum's & made a HUGE difference in how that motor ran!
 
I'll be honest I had a bigger (roller) cam in my 306 Ford that made 350hp na. (than I posted above although the ford was a 5sp not auto) - the 383 is coming with a NIB standard volume oil pump - SO in other words don't order anything til I have the motor in front of me and inspected so I know what to order haha

This is a budget build guys, got maybe $3,000 to put together an engine combo and get it running.. I need everything and bought a running motor to save on machine work and down time - I want the whole car done and driving by the end of may.

I have $3,070 in parts in my cart on Summit and I still need aluminum WP stuff, mechanical fuel pump, radiator. plus whatever I'm forgetting..


So - I'll pick out a higher stall and MAYBE a little bigger cam, but it will stay hydr. as I do not want to adjust valves..

This cam - bonus it's $3 cheaper LOL
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-sk21-237-4/overview/make/dodge

This converter
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-24-25
or not bonus it's $120 or so more = must go cheaper on other stuff...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-24-30/overview/
 
Ok figured out some more stuff -

I'm not getting a high amp replacement alternator -

I'm getting the modern 440source alternator kit (modern lightweight 60amp internally regulated - $15 more than just a 100 amp replacement alt (and I am willing to bet a 90's Dodge 130amp alt will fit the modern kit)- for which I have no bracket (another $40 plus I have a reman stock alt sitting here to sell)

Buying the 440source crank pulley ($40 difference over the March one Summit sells)

Buying the 440source aluminum water pump kit as it's $10 but includes all the pieces

cheaped out on the fuel system from the pump to the carb (saved about $30)

Eliminated the air filter as it's not "required" for a first start up/cam break in (saved $120)

Added the Ede Performer RPM intake and the Hugh's 2500rpm stall but have a Hugh's pro 3,000rpm converter on my wish list

Here is the motor -
 
That's a forged crank engine in the picture, look at the vibration dampener. I went with the Hughes roller rockers, dead nuts on 1.5 (the stock stamped are all over the place) and you have to go with custom length push rods which Hughes can supply. Don't go over 10to1 comp. with pump gas and definitely 3500 stall minimum. Done properly 383's are BB's that rev like 340's. Also a windage tray and the pan needs acceleration and deceleration plates with a HV oil pump.
 

Attachments

  • P1010002.jpg
    57.4 KB · Views: 436
fratzog lover said:
Dont go nuts with the cam, it will only make you sorry. Want a tire smoking street cam that works and has low end grunt? Try a crane 272 they work well in 383's.
http://www.race-mart.com/Crane_Cams-416270.html
Click to expand...

That's nearly a stock cam.

Stock spec. for 383 mag. cam is .450 lift IN., .458 lift EX. and Duration of 207/220 @ .050


Hipo65 said:
From personal experience please do not buy the pro form rockers!!! I made that mistake about 8 yrs ago for my old 340. they are not even close to the 1.5 ratio they were advertising to be!!! The closest rocker was 1.47! The rest were around 1.4! There is a reason there around $200 bucks my friend. I ponyed up for comp pro magnum's & made a HUGE difference in how that motor ran!
Click to expand...

X2, never skimp on rockers. I went with Harland Sharp after trying to cheap out and buying crane gold race rockers which wouldn't' hold lash and broke adjusters as if it were their job. My Harland sharps hold lash perfectly. I check, not necessarily adjust once per year.
 
younggun2.0 said:
I got a Hughes 3500 stall converter you can have for 250 shipped. In great shape
Click to expand...
I will likely take it - gotta get the motor this weekend first, and still waiting to hear back from the bank on the extra $$$ should know by Friday..

I don't want to go crazy with this motor and I also can't afford to waste money either - rockers will likely wait til the motor is running in the car - cam and converter will be first as I want to do a little work on the motor and bolt it in the car, along with the trans that I'm getting back likely tomorrow..
 
"That's nearly a stock cam. " Yup. And it works well, and wont fall flat on its face when you mash the go pedal. A 292 is alot cooler when talkin with your buds, though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top