24Wx32L Garage Build

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'70DartSwinger

'70DartSwinger

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Hi all,

I am in the progress of building my first ever garage, its been something i have always wanted.


I am building it as big as my city zoning will allow.
24 Wide X 32 Long
2 doors 9'Wide X 8'Height
1 Man door 36'' on the left side.

I am already thinking it is to small :( and that i wish i could have a lift (could not make my wall height high enough for lift without going farther away from the property line and i wanted to keep as close as possible)

will have 9' walls - 1 foot concrete foundation wall and then 8' 2x4 on top.

I am thinking i will get it spray foamed.

Will be fully wired and gas furnace.
 
photos
 

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Mine is 24x30. You WILL wish you had gone bigger.
 
Mine is 24x28 it's 8 years old. Going to he adding on length in next 2 years.. Yours is looking good keep us posted. .
 
Congrats..........every man needs his spot...............4k sq ft and still running out of space.........never big enough
 
I'm supposed to be putting up a 20x30 in the very near future, all I really have room for.
 
It would be a big bonus if you could find a way to get the height up to 10'. Can you reduce the size of the roof overhang by enough to make that happen? You should be able to get a 4 post hoist in there anyway but you'll be keeping an eye on the ceiling as the car goes up.
 
I have about the same size 24L X 34W but just turned sideways. I went with 10' 6" high but had to get a special permit which was a pain but I'm happy with it now. I have a 4 post lift in there and only have 3" from the roof of the car when the car is on the lift at it's highest position.
You'll still have a nice work shop when your done.
 

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Rob said:
It would be a big bonus if you could find a way to get the height up to 10'. Can you reduce the size of the roof overhang by enough to make that happen? You should be able to get a 4 post hoist in there anyway but you'll be keeping an eye on the ceiling as the car goes up.
Click to expand...

The over hang wont affect my zoning its from grade - peak of roof.

Thanks for the idea though
 
Keith Mopar said:
I have about the same size 24L X 34W but just turned sideways. I went with 10' 6" high but had to get a special permit which was a pain but I'm happy with it now. I have a 4 post lift in there and only have 3" from the roof of the car when the car is on the lift at it's highest position.
You'll still have a nice work shop when your done.
Click to expand...

yeah i wish i had the space to set it up the way you did would fit 3 cars nicely that way.

nice garage!
 
I admit it is an advantage in living out in the sticks. but, I have a car "shed" open on one end, mainly due to cost of garage doors! lol

now in process of adding an enclosed garage to the back end, for work and area to store engines, and such. by end of summer will have concrete floor, wiring and air run on out into it, wood stove for next winter. next summer a small window air conditioner, if I can find one small enough for it! LOL 32 x 26 dimension. plenty of room to work on 2 car and have room for storing eng/trans, and work bench.

no ya will never have one really big enough!
 
I have one that size(24x32) and it's not big enough. My biggest regret is the two doors. In hindsight I would have rotated 90 degrees and done three doors on the broad side. That would provide room for a third car.

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I was going to suggest having the width more than the depth to help with opening doors of the cars, but I see the footer is already in.

Mine is 30 wide by 26 deep, and I still can't open both doors on both cars.

You also may wish to consider a 10' wide door vs 9'.

I went with 10' and I'm glad I did. It's MUCH easier to walk in through the roll up door especially if you are carrying something, and not worry about if it will fit, or bumping the car. Plus, if you have any turning involved near the entrance, a wider door is more forgiving of entry angle.
 
Drop the pitch of the roof and raise the wall height!!

Or, do a scissor truss or 4 above the hoist bay!!

Or frame it above the hoist with conventional 2x and a ridge between the gusseted trusses!

Or frame the entire roof with conventional lumber, and collar ties instead of ceiling joists!
 
Mine is steel framed, 26' deep by 31' wide. Roll up door is 18' wide and the 26" personnel door. Walls are 10'

I built a loft that runs the full 31' width of the shop and sticks out 4 foot. This is over the work bench area. Kinda like a way oversized shelf of sorts.

I have a 100 amp sub panel installed. It has room for 3 cars.

It seemed huge at the time it was built, and yes, now i wish i had gone bigger and had more room. Anybody interested in a dodge daytona shelby, along with several truckloads of parts. That would free up some more space LOL.

Anybody here know how to flip these pix. Thanks.

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'70DartSwinger said:
The over hang wont affect my zoning its from grade - peak of roof.

Thanks for the idea though
Click to expand...

The height increase would be worth it if you can have that with your Zoning..... I just finished a 32x30 with 12' ceilings and it allowed me to install a full lift. FYI I was going to only have 9' ceilings but after some research I changed my mind and am glad I did...

JW
 
im actually in the planning stages of building a carport (maybe convert into shop later). my biggest hurdle is going to be the slab.

i am planning a 24' wide by 28' deep slab...however, from what i have been reading, is it true that it is absolutely crucial to have the building plans FIRST, (where the roll up door will be, and the man doors, building lay out etc, etc???) because, I am not SURE what kind of building I want...

I figure, if I have the slab first, I can build whatever I want on top of it...
 
Everybodies zoning laws are different i guess. I built mine as a dirt floor pole barn with 1/8" thick 4" square tubing concreted 3 foot into the ground, then framed out for the walls, doors, roof trusses. Then the dirt was dug out with a bobcat for the future concrete floor thickness, and sand underneath.

Once the doors, walls. And roof were on, i had a concrete guy build a form for the garage door approach, and for the personnel door. Then it got sand and rebar, and a 6" thick slab
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poured inside.

The buildings sheetmetal became a permanent concrete form for the floor. In this way i did not have to dig for a regular foundation and footings

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Mine is only 24x24 but has 10' side walls with scissor trusses so in the center it's 12' to the rafters. I could put a lift out about a foot and a half and have enough clearance.
But it would be a tight fit at only 24 wide.
 
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