833 rear bushing replace

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trapster

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It is poss to remove tailshaft housing in the car and replace bushing, I did it as a challenge, I woulda been faster yanking and dismantling the trans on the bench.

This is one of those times it may be cheaper/convenient to find someone with the tool and pay the hour to replace the bush, than mess with it yourself.
 
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I have a tool similar to this for 727 sized bushing. They can crush the fiber thrust washers in older automatics but in a manual trans you should be safe. The y should come with the proper size bushing driver as well.
 
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I have a tool similar to this for 727 sized bushing. They can crush the fiber thrust washers in older automatics but in a manual trans you should be safe. The y should come with the proper size bushing driver as well.

X2, as that is the only way to do it without taking the tailshaft housing off.
 
The 727 and 833 apparently share the same bushing and therefor the same tool.

I guess the easiest way to do it is to take the car to a trans shop
 
It is poss to remove tailshaft housing in the car and replace bushing, I did it as a challenge, I woulda been faster yanking and dismantling the trans on the bench.

This is one of those times it may be cheaper/convenient to find someone with the tool and pay the hour to replace the bush, than mess with it yourself.

most of the gears are attached to the tail so I would not attempt this in the car.
 
I did one without the special tool once, tried chopping it out with a chisel, tried cutting it with a hacksaw blade, tried grabbing it with a hook on a slide hammer, all attempts failed. Then I broke out the cutting torch and made a relief cut down the length of the bushing then tried to pull the bushing out, that failed too. Finally said f*ck it and gave up on trying to get the bushing out of the transmission and just knocked the bushing into the transmission. Problem one somewhat solved, onto problem two. Now comes the fun part of trying to drive the new bushing in with the output shaft in the way, my solution to that challenge (without the special tool) was to use an old slip yoke I had with a small piece of exhaust pipe over it to drive the new bushing in, the yoke kept the bushing square to the tail housing while the exhaust pipe was thin enough to push the bushing in without hitting the tail housing. The old bushing happily rode around inside the transmission on the end of the output shaft for many thousands of miles without any trouble and was patiently waiting for me when I tore the transmission down for new syncros and bearings.
That was my experience with changing a tailshaft bushing without the fancy tool.
 
I have a vibration that felt like the drive shaft. Investigation showed me some respectable play up and down on the yoke bushing. Enough for me to make a tapping noise pushing up and down when it stops. So I figure it needs replacing. After reading this thread I thought if a shop had the tool it might not cost that much for them to replace it. So far no one has the tool. One guy said he go rid of all his manual trans tools. May have to do it myself. Question, can it be pulled out using a slide hammer without removing the trans? I used the slide hammer to take out the seal which I know is easier to pull. The puller looks like it pushes against the output shaft to pull the bushing. Using a slide hammer wouldn't put any forces on the internal trans parts. I assume when they made the tool they verified the forces wouldn't hurt anything but if you could do it without putting the pulling force on the shaft it sounds better to me.

So how much play is normal or too much? I should figure out if the play is normal which means it could be something with the rebuilt drive shaft. Anyone know how to determine if the play is normal or excessive? Does this look like too much play in video: 20161106_142152.mp4

I did find a place that has the tool and said it would be $150-$175 to change it. If does need to be replace it would be cheaper to have them do it but it's a 20 mile drive with loose bushing.
 
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I have a vibration that felt like the drive shaft. Investigation showed me some respectable play up and down on the yoke bushing. Enough for me to make a clicking noise pushing up and down. So I figure it needs replacing. after reading this thread I thought if a shop had the tool it might not cost that much for them to replace it. So far no one has the tool. One guy said he go rid of all his manual trans tools. May have to do it myself. Question, can it be pulled out using a slide hammer without removing the trans? I used the slide hammer to take out the seal which I know is easier to pull. The puller looks like it pushes against the output shaft to pull the bushing. Using a slide hammer wouldn't put any forces on the internal trans parts. I assume when they made the tool they verified the forces wouldn't hurt anything but if you could do it without putting the pulling force on the shaft it sounds better to me.[/QUOTE


Probably not with the SH. It's just a tight area.

The other thing to mention is if the bushing is worn out from mileage, that's one thing.

But I have seen several cars with the driveline too short and it eats the bushing out.
 
Drive line too short? Well it's the original drive shaft and the yoke bushing is only the second one in 114,000 miles which was installed around 60,000+ miles when the trans was rebuilt. Any comments on the visual play in the video above?
 
I noticed the site with the tool says for 1996 to current. Has anyone used it on the A833?

Same bushing so same tool.
I have found old bushings inside transmissions still on the output shaft before from someone doing it as mentioned above.
 
I found a tool that I like better for the task. Check this one out: E-Z Extension Housing Bushing Remover and Installer Plus Seal Installer | A to Z Tool .
Removes bushing, installs new bushing and seal. Check manual for the tool for how to use it.

I call to get some more information on the tool. They are going to have the guy who makes them call be back on Friday 11/18/16.

11/23/16 - I ordered the tool. Hopefully putting the pulling force down the shaft axis won't hurt anything in the trans.
 
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I ordered a replacement bushing from Brewers performance. I was expecting a bronze bushing but it's different. When I asked about it they said, "They are a steel shell with babbit lining, just like a rod or main bearing for an engine. New process used this style bushing in the 4 speeds, the TF autos came with a bronze bushing."
 
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Had to many problems with those not wanting to grab the bushing over the years.
Probably because of being worn though.
The tool worked great removing the bushing. Initially it took more force to break it loose then less force the rest of the way out. Hardest part was driving the new one in. You use the tool to also drive in the new bushing. Needed to get a dead blow hammer to install the bushing. Got the smaller,27 oz , one should have gotten the heavier one. You can use the tool to install the seal as long as it's one that doesn't have the larger dust shield. Photo shows tool after pulling bushing.

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The tool worked great removing the bushing. Initially it took more force to break it loose then less force the rest of the way out. Hardest part was driving the new one in. You use the tool to also drive in the new bushing. Needed to get a dead blow hammer to install the bushing. Got the smaller,27 oz , one should have gotten the heavier one. You can use the tool to install the seal as long as it's one that doesn't have the larger dust shield. Photo shows tool after pulling bushing.

View attachment 1715003222

Oh I know they work, it's just I got so used to the easier to handle ones I guess.
 
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