Holley 1920 replacement

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Money Pit

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I have a 70 225 with a Holley 1920 carb. I've read many of the threads about the Holley 1920 carbs not being a very good carb. I've had a lot of problems with mine. What is a good replacement? Does anyone have an opinion on the weber carbs like they use with the Clifford set ups? Is there a 2 barrel manifold that I could use a weber carb? Or should I get a 4 barrel? I have a stock engine but want a little more pick up. Thanks
 
Not very knowledgeable on this but didn't some 225's come with 2 barrel Carter BBD's? That would be my selection. I would think without a camshaft change a 4bbl would be too much carburetor.
 
Auto or standard? The super six setup will need the kickdown linkage with it if you have an auto...or an aftermaket cable like a lokar. There is a 2 barrel motorcraft that works. Dan will know.
Will need an aftermarket electric choke too as the chokes are different between 1 and 2 barrels.

What wrong with your 1920. A good rebuild kit and cleaning the metering block might do wonders...they also came with 1 barrel carters.

Easy to over carb a stock slant with a 4 barrel id bet
 
It's an auto. The carb has been rebuilt a couple of times. It hesitates off idle. It doesn't seem to have much power.
 
Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

And Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread.
 
It had a rebuilt carb when I bought the car and I rebuilt it. There's a leak at the throttle shaft. If I spray carb cleaner it idles better and the engine speeds up.
Will a super six manifold and carb bolt up without modifications? Thanks
 
Youll need a different choke and the kickdown linkage or a cable kit from lokar.

Could be as simple as a dirty passage in the metering blick causing lean idle.
 
Even with a reman tag on in, I'd check the float level. Mine had one when I got it and I wrongly assumed that it was somewhat done right. It ran OK, but something was not quite right. When I check the floated it was something like .75" instead of .5", not even close. These aren't the extact numbers but is was WAY off. I think someone flat out adjusted wrong or not at all. Night and day difference after I adjusted it.
 
I went thru ~3 rebuilt Holley 1920's on my 1969 Dart 225 over several decades before I got one which made it idle like a kitten. The others must have had clogged metering blocks since they idled lean and stumbly. No mechanic could diagnose it, saying "valve job", etc., which I did to no effect. Finally, when a rebuilt long-block ran as bad, I tried a 4th carb and bingo. If you want to go big, a 4 bbl aluminum intake (Offenhauser) with a small ~370 cfm carburetor would be neat, or keep your eye on Gil Welding's new EFI intake and forget about old carburetors since even the best ones still have bad fuel distribution in a slant intake (as would TBI).
 
Which throttle body system would you recommend? I was actually looking into fuel injection for the reliability. Thanks
 
The biggest problem with all straight sixes is that with central fuel distribution, it doesn't distribute equally to the 6 runners. The fuel drops tend to go more to the center cylinders (rich) and the outers run leaner. TBI can give a finer spray which should distribute better, but still not as good as MPFI. Of course, MPFI controls assume all the injectors are balanced. There were after-market intakes which probably distribute better, like the long Hurricane runners or the dual carb one.
 
BillGrissom said:
The biggest problem with all straight sixes is that with central fuel distribution, it doesn't distribute equally to the 6 runners. The fuel drops tend to go more to the center cylinders (rich) and the outers run leaner. TBI can give a finer spray which should distribute better, but still not as good as MPFI. Of course, MPFI controls assume all the injectors are balanced. There were after-market intakes which probably distribute better, like the long Hurricane runners or the dual carb one.
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Forsure. But for a DD it is still far better than a carb.
 
Money Pit said:
It had a rebuilt carb when I bought the car and I rebuilt it. There's a leak at the throttle shaft. If I spray carb cleaner it idles better and the engine speeds up.
Will a super six manifold and carb bolt up without modifications? Thanks
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Vacuum leak at throttle shaft? Unless it an be bushed and fix this problem, it will never run right from just that. It is wore out there, GET a better carb!! and go from there.
 
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The OP has a 1970, so the linked carb's would work. But though listed for 1965, if like the photos, they would not be a direct fit for 1963-65 slant cars since those cars use a rotating rod throttle input for slant engines, which requires a different carb.
 
valiantwagonguy said:
I switch all my slant six cars over to the Carter 1BBL .They are way better than the Holly . This is where I bought my last one last year. 1965 DODGE DART 2.8L 170cid L6 Carburetor | RockAuto

1965 DODGE DART 3.7L 225cid L6 Carburetor | RockAuto

Be careful when buying one.On the two links above they are reasonably priced then you look on Ebay and you'd get raped by this guy for the very same carb ( Autoline C551) Carburetor AUTOLINE C551 | eBay
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Does the linkage need to changed in going from Holly 1920 to the carter ? I can’t tell from pics
 
Johnny71dusty said:
Does the linkage need to changed in going from Holly 1920 to the carter ? I can’t tell from pics
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What I did when I used the Carter from the 65 Valiant on the 76 Aspen with the Holly is switched the the bottom part of the carb (replacement Carter) with a bottom from a 67 and up Carter that used a cable rather than the mechanical linkage. Then it was a bolt on job .
 
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