Over Center Spring?

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turbojerk

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Is there any way to adjust the over-center spring?

My pedal has decided to stop returning to the top of throw by about 2"...

Checked clutch adjustment at the fork and all is well. All of the play is in the slotted rod-end that attaches to the pedal under the dash.

Help
 
IMO, if the setup is B&B, the linkage is not returning far enough to get the pedal past center.
Maybe you're not seeing some lost motion throughout the components. Takes two. One to watch and one to work the pedal full stroke.
Watch bell crank bushing areas and fork pivot closely.
 
I ran my four speed with a B&B pressure plate for over 20 years with the overcenter spring removed. Never missed it. I eventually put in a Centerforce clutch which requires the over center spring to be removed. I liked that clutch better. Rod
 
I ran my four speed with a B&B pressure plate for over 20 years with the overcenter spring removed. Never missed it. I eventually put in a Centerforce clutch which requires the over center spring to be removed. I liked that clutch better. Rod
I would think the needed clutch pedal force would be quite high if you were using a B&B clutch without the over center spring to assist you?
 
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It was a stiff clutch, but I always blamed it one the fact that I had the clutch business put in stronger springs.
 
Is there any way to adjust the over-center spring?

My pedal has decided to stop returning to the top of throw by about 2"...

Checked clutch adjustment at the fork and all is well. All of the play is in the slotted rod-end that attaches to the pedal under the dash.

Help


I've had this issue over the past 40 years. For years, I would just pull it up with my toe. I've run B&B, B&B & Long and diaphragm clutches. It's all about the linkage and how you have it set up.

Blueprint the linkage so that all the rods and Z-bar arms connect with 100% contact on their mating surfaces. I had to bend parts to straighten them and ensure they line up square and make 100% contact around the pivot points.

Also, make sure you are using the thin, flat nylon washers between all contact points that use them. use fresh synthetic disc brake grease on all the lubrication points and make sure the ball studs are not worn.

That being said, my clutch fork fell off my throw-out bearing as I was driving into a local Mopar show a few weekends ago, I had to be towed home. I ordered up the American Powertrain hydraulic clutch kit the next day. I'm still putting that in now, but it is a nice kit.
 
.......... my clutch fork fell off my throw-out bearing as I was driving into a local Mopar show a few weekends ago, I had to be towed home...…..

Lol, That reminds me when I drove my RR home a dozen or so miles without a clutch linkage. Ya' learn how to shift without PDQ.
 
So do we “really” need that spring or not? I’ve been watching this thread wondering if it actually does anything useful. My clutch doesn’t come back up top unless I pull the last inch or so.

Cleaning up a set to go in my car and if I don’t need to clean it or whatever I’ll take it off
 
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Lol, That reminds me when I drove my RR home a dozen or so miles without a clutch linkage. Ya' learn how to shift without PDQ.

Right! I thought about it. I shift my street bike up and down without the clutch, but I had half-a-dozen stop lights that convinced me otherwise.
 
So do we “really” need that spring or not? I’ve been watching this thread wondering if it actually does anything useful. My clutch doesn’t come back up top unless I pull the last inch or so.

Cleaning up a set to go in my car and if I don’t need to clean it or whatever I’ll take it off

It depends on the style of pressure plate you have. A heavy spring Borg & Beck is a lot tamer on the leg with the spring in. Diaphragm clutches should run with the spring removed, and so does my McLeod Street Twin(with is a 3-finger B&B style.
 
I'm wondering... you guys who had to pull the pedal up with your toe. Did it stay there on its own after you did that?
I don't have that problem with mine. I have a B&B clutch with the OC spring in place and the spring does what it is suppose to do. Assist when pushing the pedal down and return the pedal all the way to the top when released.
As jbc426 said, its all in the linkage and having it working and adjusted correctly.
 
With the OC spring it should. It works in both directions.

Correct, It should bring the pedal back to the top, but for some people it it doesn't. The cause has to be linkage adjustment or that the OC spring has been removed?
 
...........The cause has to be linkage adjustment or that the OC spring has been removed?
Could also be something bent or flexing too much requiring more travel to function. Remote possibility OC spring failing.
 
I have seen where the pin the overcenter spring attaches to was worn almost half way through. That certainly would impact the effectiveness of the overcenter spring.
 
Think I may convert to heim joints on the rods


In my E-Body, I was able to get the factory rod ends to fit together well with both the z-bar ends and the pedal fitting. I did have to massage them to get them to lay completely flat at the contact points. Using both the thin nylon washers and synthetic disc brake grease on the contact points and the ball pivot bushings significantly reduced drag on the entire assembly.

The most recent problem I had was the angle of the adjusting rod and the clutch fork was apparently changing enough to allow the clutch fork to fall off the throw-out bearing. This obviously left me stranded, but it was also the first time this had ever happened on this combination. I carefully inspected the clutch fork, the bolt on L-shaped fulcrum and the clutch adjusting rod, but could not determine why it suddenly allowed the throw-out bearing to rotate so that the clutch fork fingers fell off the throw-out bearing pads.

I suspected the torqueing motion of the motor/trans somehow tweaked it(who needs 700+ hp and a stick shift anyway? ME!), but that is speculation as all parts appear to fit and function normally.

I've since installed an American Powertrain Hydraulic Throw-out bearing kit. There was some minor alteration to the hardware included in their kit required to properly fit and positioning of the components required, but it seems to allow a more complete release of the clutch without over extending my pressure plate fingers. I'll be doing a write up, short term and long term follow-up on that install here or on Moparts.
 
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In my E-Body, I was able to get the factory rod ends to fit together well with both the z-bar ends and the pedal fitting. I did have to massage them to get them to lay completely flat at the contact points. Using both the thin nylon washers and synthetic disc brake grease on the contact points and the ball pivot bushings significantly reduced drag on the entire assembly.

The most recent problem I had was the angle of the adjusting rod and the clutch fork was apparently changing enough to allow the clutch fork to fall off the throw-out bearing. This obviously left me stranded, but it was also the first time this had ever happened on this combination. I carefully inspected the clutch fork, the bolt on L-shaped fulcrum and the clutch adjusting rod, but could not determine why it suddenly allowed the throw-out bearing to rotate so that the clutch fork fingers fell off the throw-out bearing pads.

I suspected the torqueing motion of the motor/trans somehow tweaked it, but that is speculation as all parts appear to fit and function normally.

I've since installed an American Powertrain Hydraulic Throw-out bearing kit. There was some minor alteration to the hardware included in their kit required to properly fit and positioning of the components required, but it seems to allow a more complete release of the clutch without over extending my pressure plate fingers. I'll be doing a write up, short term and long term follow-up on that install here or on Moparts.

I am interested in going hydraulic, so looking forward to your write-ups, thanks.
 
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