How to properly remove dampener bolt?

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Update on my attempt to remove the crankcase bolt. So I go online and think I’ll just buy the proper tool to do the job. I seen that Mancini has two tools to do this job. So I purchase and spring for the $40.00 bucks for both. Tonight I attempt to use the tool or tools to do the job. Then I realize they won’t work. How can they sell them if you can’t even begin to position them where they need to be? Please see attached photos.
Am I missing something or are they useless based on the location of the crankcase bolt and the recessed position of the bolts due to the the depth of the pulley wheel? I’m so frustrated. The reason I was pulling everything off was to get the cam out so my engine guy could cut a small groove in it for better oiling to my edelbrock performer rpm heads and my Harland sharp roller rockers. At this point I’m thinking it worked before with the same setup except iron 915 heads I don’t think I even have to worry about gettin the cam cut? It’s much more hassle then it’s worth I think. I’d love to get some opinions.
Carl

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That tool is designed to be use with the pully removed. It bolts to the dampener to to keep the crankshaft from turning while you loosen the dampener bolt.
 
Take a bunch of rags and put them into one cylinder. doesn't matter which, put the head on that will cover that cylender, no need for a gasket, put the head bolts in snug (just past finger tight) rotate the crank bolt in the correct removal direction ( I assume it is standard right hand threads) so that would be counter clockwise when facing the bolt. use a beaker bar, IT WILL COME LOOSE!

The rags will compress to the head and prevent the piston from going over TDC.

Remove the head and remove the rags.

No need for special tools.

You are really overthinking this.
 
Maybe we could get a member in his area to help? I mean this with all the respect possible......but if you cannot get the balancer off after all this time, what makes you think you can do the rest? It's a serious question. I mean no offense at all. None of us knows how to do everything, but removing a balancer is an easy process......and the first main thing you have to do for this job and yet here you are.

I am almost certain there's a member in your area. Maybe post in general and ask to see if someone might could come over and give you a hand? I am sure if you threw some food and beer at them they'd be happy to. You could learn something and get a new friend in the process.
 
Maybe we could get a member in his area to help? I mean this with all the respect possible......but if you cannot get the balancer off after all this time, what makes you think you can do the rest? It's a serious question. I mean no offense at all. None of us knows how to do everything, but removing a balancer is an easy process......and the first main thing you have to do for this job and yet here you are.

I am almost certain there's a member in your area. Maybe post in general and ask to see if someone might could come over and give you a hand? I am sure if you threw some food and beer at them they'd be happy to. You could learn something and get a new friend in the process.
Very diplomaticlly said Rusty. That's why I am afraid, so very afraid.
 
Very diplomaticlly said Rusty. That's why I am afraid, so very afraid.

And I meant it just in that way. Dammit, if I had somebody around when I was first learnin effin stuff up all the time I might notta effed up so much.........naw I probably would have.
 
And I meant it just in that way. Dammit, if I had somebody around when I was first learnin effin stuff up all the time I might notta effed up so much.........naw I probably would have.
Effin up is experience. Gotta have enough rope to hang yourself. Best way to learn.
 
Effin up is experience. Gotta have enough rope to hang yourself. Best way to learn.

Dang skippy. It's what taught me best. Now, makin the same eff ups over and over........means you might wanna find another hobby. LOL
 
You got to start somewhere, effn up is the way of learning. When I think back about it, I really do wonder how I got the motors to run.:rofl:
 
If the heads are off, and you’re taking the cam out, why are you so worried about keeping the crank at TDC? You will have to go through all of the steps to reassemble the front after the cam is reinstalled, so why not just get the front off, do what you have to do, and when you’re ready to reassemble it, put the cover and balancer on temporarily and realign the crank to TDC then? Heck, with the heads off, just borrow or rent a dial indicator and set the #1 piston to TDC with that. With no cam in it, it doesn’t matter which stroke it’s on, as long as the #1 piston is at the top of its stroke.
 
……….... Get a 1/2" long breaker bar with the right size socket. Put it on the crank bolt and position the breaker bar so that it is almost up against the K frame on the passenger's side under the car. Remove the coil wire and bump the engine with the started and the starter will break the crank bolt loose very easily.

That's exactly how I saw it done on a 383 by a friend way back in HS. Once loose he proceeds to use the crank bolt, a couple long 5/16" bolts, and an upside down rod cap to pull the balancer. Hey, ……….. it worked!
 
To everyone that is chiming in thank you. I dont take offense to what anyone is saying by trying to help. The situation is a pain in the *** because I have almost everything off the block including the heads, intake, exhaust, starter, etc. the heads were sent off to the machine shop to get modified after putting on mike at B3 racing’s geometry kit. Now the pushrods don’t have room to travel through their channels. It’s not that I feel overwhelmed by the things I’m doing to take apart and put back the engine. It’s just that had I known without an impact gun I should of broke the crankcase bolt loose before tearing everything apart. I think I’ll hook up the starter recharge the battery and try bumping the engine with the bolt secured with a breaker bar. The car is up on jacks under the frame at various points so I could get to everything. I’m working on it in a small one man garage. Oh well I guess live and learn as I go along.
Carl
 
Am I missing something or are they useless based on the location of the crankcase bolt and the recessed position of the bolts due to the the depth of the pulley wheel? I’m so frustrated.

Unbolt & remove the pulley, then try the wrench you bought.

Use two of the pulley bolts to secure it.
 
Alaskan TA
But don’t you have to get the crankcase bolt out to remove the pulley? If that’s the case I might as well just try to bump the engine with the starter.
Carl
 
Alaskan TA
But don’t you have to get the crankcase bolt out to remove the pulley? If that’s the case I might as well just try to bump the engine with the starter.
Carl
No. The pulley comes off by itself AND dont mix up your lifters if you pull the cam.
 
Awesome thanks for that. I think my tool will work. If not then hooking the starter back up and bumping the engine. Thank you everyone.
 
Jam a screwdriver in the flywheel teeth, and take it off.
Its not rocket science.
 
As stated above, it will probably come off with a 1/2 drive socket wrench. Just put it on there, the socket size is 1 1/4”, and hit the socket drive with the palm of your hand, it will probably loosen right up. And yes, the pulley comes off without removing the balancer bolt!
 
We were all new to this once. ;-)

People come here for help, not to be put down.
I hope LovetheA's didn't take it that way. It wasn't meant to put anybody down. Merely a laughable observation. If anything, it was a compliment to all who are participating in the project.
 
No listen I don’t take offense to any of this. I’m learning a lot from this website and appreciate all the help. Keep in mind I don’t have the luxury of impact wrench or air tools an air compressor a welder a press etc. Things are much more difficult that way. Maybe in due time I’ll have all those things but right now money and space are a luxury that I don’t have. Also I rebuilt my entire suspension with out a press and had to figure ou how to press out bushings with sockets, bolts and washers and pipe fittings. If I can do it with those limited resources imagine if I had the right equipment. Everyone on here is very patient. Thanks
 
I just took the whole front end off of a motor to give to a guy in a deal. I used my regular 1/2” Craftsman socket wrench, and a 1 1/4” socket. Put it on, slapped it with the palm of my hand, and it spun right off. And, this motor had been sitting a minimum of 20 years in a rusted out old 65 Coronet. I’m sure you can pop that bolt with a minimum of effort.

The balancer on this motor also popped right off with a puller that bolts to the pulley holes, and has a conical shaped snout that pushes into the end of the shaft. I’m sure yours will pop off the same way. It took me about 1/2 hour to strip the entire front of the motor, in the barn with a minimum of hand tools, alternator brackets and all! You can do it bro, I’m sure of it!
 
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