DArt Hood Hinges

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marksmopars

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I am getting my *** handed to me over the hood hinges on my 1970 Dart. These were poorly designed to start with and I cant seem to get a set to work. Has anyone here created a replacement product that they would be willing to share thoughts on with me? Ideally they would utilize rams and lose the stock spring arrangement. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
 
they really suck, dont they? always bowing in and out...
I unwound the springs a half turn.
Took the major loading off the spring... so they act like more normal hinges should...lol
Used an old trunk spring for a prop rod. Bent end fits into existing holes under hood.
 
cant be too hard to remove the springs (keeping only the hinges as hinges) and install 2 hydraulic cylinders in there
kinda like a modern trunk
 
cant be too hard to remove the springs (keeping only the hinges as hinges) and install 2 hydraulic cylinders in there
kinda like a modern trunk
I am trying to not recreate the wheel, hopin someone has done this and can share what they did.
 
I have owned over 300 A-Body's and have never had an issue with the factory springs. You need to make sure you use tight spring clips on the two studs and lube them well.
 
I have owned over 300 A-Body's and have never had an issue with the factory springs. You need to make sure you use tight spring clips on the two studs and lube them well.
I am open to any suggestions, very frustrated here as I have purchased two sets of hinges and when I mounted them they just bent.
 
There are a number of threads complete with pics and part numbers on this forum. Search "hood struts". It's all in knowing what to look for. LOL!
 
I have owned over 300 A-Body's and have never had an issue with the factory springs. You need to make sure you use tight spring clips on the two studs and lube them well.
I pack the spring with grease. Lots of grease. The hood will open and close so smooth, and no gronk sound anymore either.

FYI. 67-70 hinges are different than 71-76.
 
The problem is the hole in the upper hinge. It’s only about 1/8 wide, so in order to keep the hinge from bowing out, you need to sleeve the hole so the pin on the body has more contact area.

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