Vapor barrier for doors

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DrCharles

DrCharles

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Looking for recommendations to make and apply new vapor barrier sheets for my '72 Dart Swinger's doors (and quarter windows too).

Plastic sheeting is available in various mil thicknesses. How heavy should it be? And what do I stick it to the door/quarter frame with? 3M spray adhesive? Butyl tape? something else?

thanks for any tips & tricks.
 
Use butyl tape. Plactic thinkness? As heavy as you can find it locally.
 
Butyl tape. Best. Carpet tape works if surface is flat. Expensive,double sided foam tape. But plastic will be trashed if need to go in there.
 
We used 3M "dum dum" at least that's we call it. Strips of moldable sticky death very similar to what the factory used to hold it in place.
 
Not sure what it’s called (double foil backed bubble wrap is about the best description I can give)
I’ve been thinking of using this for my project. A bunch of extra came with my pop up camper. Campers use it in the canvas/screen windows to extend camping season both hot or cold.
Also Keeps camper dark when you know you’re going to want to sleep late for some reason

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How about 3M black weatherstrip adhesive (in a tube)? I have a metric buttload left over after doing my trunk seal...
 
2 sided Gorilla tape !!!!!!!!!!! great stuff it holds on contact and no mess !!
 
DrCharles said:
Looking for recommendations to make and apply new vapor barrier sheets for my '72 Dart Swinger's doors (and quarter windows too).

Plastic sheeting is available in various mil thicknesses. How heavy should it be? And what do I stick it to the door/quarter frame with? 3M spray adhesive? Butyl tape? something else?

thanks for any tips & tricks.
Click to expand...
3M spray adhesive is good. 6 mil is plenty thick. Its not exposed to UV light so just about anything will work. Some manufactures use wax paper like vapor barrier.
 
Not sure what thickness my plastic is. 4-6mil? Worked good, but a little thicker would have been better. What did work well was a strip of windoweld across the top and this stuff below.
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The white stuff is just tacky enough to hold position. The black is stuck. So it acts like a hinge and I can peel the plastic up and back over the door to work in the door. The weatherstrip adhesive would work great -except that you probably won't get the plastic off without destroying it if need to get in there.
 
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Whatever you use make sure it tucks into the slot at the bottom a few inches.
The reason for the plastic- to make sure water (rain) goes to bottom of the door and out the weep holes and not into your carpet. Rubber sealant goes down both sides, across top and around door latch plus anything else that sticks through plastic. Bottom is not glued
Mike
 
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