What do I need for a proper under-dash rewire?
I drove it while I was home for Thanksgiving, and while investigating why my turn signals, aftermarket tach, and blower motor were intermittently shutting off, I discovered that the wiring under my dash is a good bit messier than I thought. Dangling connectors, wire screws, wires just straight up tied together next to insulation... It's a bit of a miracle this car hasn't caught fire.
The only extra item there is the tach, and that's pretty easy to wire in.
One thing those three items have in common is their power goes through the ignition switch and the fuse the box.
I've already been planning to pull the cluster to repair some things behind it, but now I'm realizing that I should definitely do a complete rewire or at least patch things together. I can't afford a $600 brand new under dash harness, so what would you all suggest I get in order to do a good, solid repair/rewire job? I know how to solder properly and whatnot, I actually love wiring and electricity, but I just lack exoeriexpe. Should I get a bunch of colored wire or reuse/repair the factory stuff? What tools for crimping and splicing do you suggest? Anything I should know about dash wiring that would be good to be aware of on a '68 notch?
If you solder and use heat shrink, as long as there's enough slack, that will work for splicing.
There is one big splice that was originally welded. That's the main power distribution. Rarely a problem there, but if there is, obviously you'll have to fix it.
All of the terminals inside connectors were crimped. Use crimpers for
open barrel terminals. Some will crimp both the main and the strain relief folds in one shot.
Very few if any will technically have the Packard 56 (sometimes sold as Delphi 56). Most if not all in your '68 will look more like a Packard 58, also called Chrysler or Ford style. I'm sure someone knows the history but I don't. In general they are interchangable, fitting the same connectors. More important to use the correct ones for the wire sizes.
Need help on bulkhead wiring
Sources for Chrysler type wire terminals
Reuse the factory stuff if its in good condition and it won't be strained by the reduced length. If just some the insulation is all brittle and cracked, its possible to slip some heat shink over the section after removing the terminal. I did that on a few of my wagoneer's wires using colored and clear shrink. Otherwise, replace the wire or section of it. If the copper itself is showing corrosion or oxidation under the insulation, that's no good.
Wire. I buy locally from a marine supply. Lots of colors. Good quality, and can purchase by the foot. Lots of other options. A few listed in the linked threads.
If it helps any, the car is a 1968 Barracuda notchback, factory 318 car (now has 360/904), no A/C, 3-speed wipers, manual steering and brakes, suspected to have had a map light switch during it's life (now missing), nothing special in terms of rear defogger or fancy options.
Especially since its been cut into, print off a few copies of the '68 Barracuda wiring diagram. This way you'll see what's been done and needs be fixed.
You'll have to make your own cable and routing diagrams.
Other things: A terminal release tool is handy and helpful
You'll want to remove the bulkhead connectors, and then you can remove the female terminals from the inside. Make sure they are clean and not showing damage.
question on the main harness plug on firewall
Connections to the instrument panel circuit board are a little different.
Cable bundling. A non-adhesive electrical tape was used. I think vinyl, not cloth, is what you'll find. Some of the body wiring may have cloth loom on it. My '67 has that on the wire bundle going to the fuel sender and tail lights etc.
