Need help on bulkhead wiring

-

themoparman73

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 24, 2012
Messages
334
Reaction score
121
Location
Sanger, CA
Hey brothers, need help on the bulkhead wires on a 1971 dodge dart, from the inside of the car. I was pulling them out to clean them and got some wires mixed up. Now I have my fuel gauge and temp gauge freaking out and not getting power. Any pictures would help.

Thanks Fabo
 
You need a shop manual. Go download one at MyMopar.com. Several manuals over there are because of the efforts of the guys on here

Do NOT get the Dart manual for this job, it is the BODY section. Go down and download the Plymouth chassis manual
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1971_Plymouth_Chassis_Service_Manual.zip
Also from the same website, punch "wiring" and there are aftermarket wiring diagrams there too. These are NOT factory diagrams, are sometimes easier to follow but also sometimes leave out some details. They do not have a layout of the connector

CAVEAT!!!! For a few years there was a misprint concerning (memory) the yellow start wire and the dark gree/ red horn wire mixed up at that connector

When you open the 71 Plymouth manual, the pages in your viewer are NOT the "dash" numbering in the manual. Type in page "about" 368, and go up/ down to find the contents of the wiring diagrams (marked 8-147) Next page down is a layout of the connector Notice the contents list "Valiant engine bay" page 8-151..........
 
Last edited:
Hey guys, i know this thread is a little old and I'm hijacking, but trying to help my son in CA fix his 73 Dart, I'm in VA. He's not getting anywhere near 12 volts at the starter relay from the ignition switch, he was showing 3 volts when he checked it. I had him jump 12 volts from the main terminal there to the tab that the yellow ignition switch wire connects to and the car would turn over. I told him he needs to pull the bulkhead connector apart and clean the terminals. I never pulled one apart so i don't know how to tell him to do it. Is there a screw or bolt that holds the two halves together or is it just like most other connectors with some sort of locking clips and really hard to pull apart? Any help is appreciated.
 
Yes, clips. Sorry I don't have one dug out I can show The plastic connector comes apart in sections, and the terminals have retainers like so: You can buy new terminals they are called "Packard 56". Be careful you get the correct ones

Most the older Mopars use this type which "curls around the side." You release it from the plastic connector by sticking AKA a small screwdriver down the mating end to release the little tab

E922%20Female%20Electrical%20Spade%20Connector%20Small%20Wire.jpg


The male ends release with the tang in the bottom right of this photo

1589x1__22347.1305601954.380.500.jpg
 
Thanks Dart. I've been working with him on FaceTime to try to get this thing going. He has been starting it with a screwdriver jumping the starter solenoid. I am guessing the plastic connectors can be persuaded apart with a small screwdriver to get the two halves apart.
 
This is how I solved the problem of the bulkhead connector. it is sitting on the left fender inside the hood

conector box.jpg
 
Thanks Dart. I've been working with him on FaceTime to try to get this thing going. He has been starting it with a screwdriver jumping the starter solenoid. I am guessing the plastic connectors can be persuaded apart with a small screwdriver to get the two halves apart.

Look at the service manual. It will give you a much better idea what you are dealing with.
 
[Also from the same website, punch "wiring" and there are aftermarket wiring diagrams there too. These are NOT factory diagrams, are sometimes easier to follow but also sometimes leave out some details. They do not have a layout of the connector]

Just a note about the aftermarket wiring schematics. Don't go by the color coded wiring when matching the schematic up to the actual vehicle wiring. I purchased a schematic for my 73 Dart 340 Sport from Classic Industries. Easy to follow, but the colors were off in several instances, and the locations of the wires on the bulkhead connector were not always correct. Trace them down manually before making any changes.
 
Dart, we have the manuals and I have been working with my son to trace the yellow wire back to see where he loses the voltage. He isn't extremely mechanically savvy but is putting forth the effort nonetheless. he got the bulkhead connector apart and cleaned it up but still no joy yet. I'll pick it back up tomorrow with him and have him start under the dash and work back towards the ignition switch, that is what I am suspecting at this point. If it is the switch, they are cheap enough but not sure he could change it.

Anyone in the San Diego area looking to tinker on their holiday weekend?
 
ABODYJOE had a great thread on changing the switch:

How To Install an Ignition Switch in 1970 Dodge Dart

Make CERTAIN you do NOT have the stupid ignition interlock (supposed to be 74) which is a relay sized box under the hood with a reset button. If so, find the two yellow wires going to it and splice them permanently together

100_0894-jpg.jpg
 
Appreciate that tip on the relay. I will have him go through and look but I don't recall seeing this when the car was with me, that's been about 3 years now. Is that interlock in addition to a starter relay or did this replace the starter relay in 74?

That write up by ABODYJOE may just allow him to change the switch if it has to be swapped, I appreciate that link as well.
 
That reset is in addition to. It was supposed to be 74 only, but I guess it's possible you have a "late 73" production. This was the dreaded seatbelt / interlock which kills the starter if you don't hook up
 
Dart - Appreciate the follow up and all the info you've provided to me. Hopefully we get this sorted out before he heads back to school.

Again, thanks a ton for all of your help. Hope you have a Merry Christmas!
 
Dart - my son checked for that interlock and did not find one anywhere in the engine bay. He was doing more voltage checks under the dash and while checking the yellow wire out of the ignition switch he put the switch to start had 11 volts and the engine started. It seems like there is a loose wire in that harness. The connector is old and brittle and is cracked a little. I had him try to make sure it was seated by pushing in on it to make sure, he told me he couldn't move it. This sucks and is good all at the same time, it is fixed for now but this will surely happen again down the road.

I appreciate everyone's input and help with this.
 
One common problem is that when the bulkhead connectors are pushed on, the female terminals push back in the housing, i.e. the little side latch doesn't hold it. You can see that under-dash w/ a flashlight. Only one of the 3 connectors is for engine functions. The others are "headlight" and "wiper", though those aren't exact definitions. My 1965 is simpler (2 connectors) since the wiper motor is in the cabin and the thick ALT & BAT feed-thrus are on special buss-bars. Since only dealing with the single yellow wire, it should be fairly straight-forward. Just tell him to take a breath and not get jiggy. Also, insure the black lead is on a solid ground same as BATT- or just run a long jumper wire there. Insure the starter relay's case is at BATT- (within 0.1 V), and stays there as you try to crank. Bad grounds are a problem in anything electrical.
 
-
Back
Top