Big Block A Body oil pan

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Garys72Duster

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Just got the pan off my 230 block, and it happens to be a 187 pan. That's the one that is on my 1970 440 Dart. So that one fits fine with plenty of clearance everywhere. The 187 has the indentation on the passenger side near the drain plug, to clear the Idler arm and tie rod. Good to know if your"re putting a big block in an A Body.
 
Good to know. I will be doing a big block swap in the future.
 
You can buy a brand new 893 BB pan and pickup for $300 or less. It has the baffles as well. This is what was used on all the original BB A-Bodies.
 
It is a stock 5 QT. Pan. Works with no issue.

Personally, I currently have a Moroso 7.5 pan with little issues. Stock original BB 383 Barracuda and only a little rub on the right side. No clearance on the K needed.
 
Mancini has a 5+1 pan package for the A-body BB setup. Looks just like the 187 with the clearance scallop. Pan, pickup, windage tray, gaskets and a Melling standard pump for $299 IIRC. I got one and it is a nice piece.
 
I measured my 187 pan with water. I put 1.5 gallons in there, 6 qts, and it was still 1.5 inches below the pan rail. So with another quart in the filter we're at 7 qts. With a quart circulating thru the motor, there should be plenty of clearance between the crank throws and the oil in the pan. Does this sound right? How much room do you need between the crank throws and the top of the oil surface?
 
I measured my 187 pan with water. I put 1.5 gallons in there, 6 qts, and it was still 1.5 inches below the pan rail. So with another quart in the filter we're at 7 qts. With a quart circulating thru the motor, there should be plenty of clearance between the crank throws and the oil in the pan. Does this sound right? How much room do you need between the crank throws and the top of the oil surface?
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I don't think you want to put 7 qts in a 5 qt pan.

Here are the pan numbers.

Casting Numbers: Mopar Oil Pan Specifications 1961-1980
 
I just installed a 187 pan and the pitman and idle arms along with center link for a 73+ and have 1.5"+ clearance using a front engine plate in my 71 Demon
 
The 187 pan is a 4 1/2 quart pan plus one in a LONG filter . the 187 pan is a c-body pan . the 893 pan is a BB a-body pan 5 1/2 quart plus one in the LONG filter . The Milodon 7.5" pan is a 7 quart pan plus one in a LONG filter . The Milodon pan works with A-B-&Cbodies except 62-65 b-bodies . There may be some issues using it in a-bodies at the front corners next to the k-frame but an easy fix . Of course , issues of ground clearance . In my case , there were no issues at all . I started with a 187 pan , cut the bottom off and added 2 " to it but not the pickup . this was just to get it up and running before going to the Milodon . Hope this helps .
 
I don't think you want to put 7 qts in a 5 qt pan.................. Thanks! It would be 6 quarts in the pan, 1 in the filter. And it would only be done at the drag strip, where you may need a little extra for high RPM. I have overfilled by 1 qt before with no problems. My question is, how far below the crankshaft do you want the oil to be, when using a windage tray?
 
When you measure capacity on an oil pan, is it just how much the sump, or lower portion holds? Or how high is the oil level when they rate pan capacity? Thanks
 
As far away as possible.
Oh, ok. That explains it. The crank throws whipping into the oil creates drag, reduces horsepower, and can aireate the oil. Not good. I saw where a dyno operator had drained 1 qt of oil out of the motor, in order to get the horsepower just over the 600 horse mark. Risky move, but it worked!
 
Yea.... not the way I’d look for that few extra HP!
LMAO!!!

The windage tray is to help protect against the cranks wind. Bringing the oil up to just under the tray doesn’t really help. The level doesn’t drop a whole lot once the engine starts running. Once the oil starts coming down from up top on to the tray, the oil starts to run into interference with the oil in the pan if it is to full. This just backs up the oil on top of the windage tray. Defeating the trays purpose. While this wouldn’t be a constant issue, it is a on and off again problem based on fill level and what was pumped up and when the pumping starts and starts again.

The best thing you can do is to simply get an oil pan with increased capacity and use a windage tray. A stock oil pan and windage tray will handle most street duties. If your driving in a “Spirted manor”, add baffles if the pan is not equipped. Or drop good coin on an aftermarket set up?

I left a link above where AndyF went to the trouble of checking out several pans for his big block 470 Duster project. Take notes! Yup! Hell yea I am!
 
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