New ignition switch - bad already?

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MrJLR

MrJLR

Built, not bought
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Ok...had a problem with no voltage when cranking. ....verified with test light.
Replaced ignition switch and solved the problem instantly.

Today (2 days later) no voltage when cranking again.

1) Could my luck be so bad that the new switch did the exact same thing as the other?

2) Is there any way something wrong in my circuit could be shorting out ing2 on my switches?

3) Is it possible it's not my switch - I have them both on my bench right now...how do I bench test it?

Lol...sometimes yer the bug, and sometimes yer the windshield!

Jeff
 
First, what are we working on? If you have something to provide a load, say 5A or even a bit more, there is no reason you cannot bench test them

Don't ignore that depending on car year / model, this problem could easily be a conector/ harness problem
 
67Dart273 said:
First, what are we working on? If you have something to provide a load, say 5A or even a bit more, there is no reason you cannot bench test them

Don't ignore that depending on car year / model, this problem could easily be a conector/ harness problem
Click to expand...
Thanks.....
1968 Barracuda 318 automatic
Dash and engine harnesses are 3 years old and been fine until a week ago when all this started .
It has a new ready to run electronic distributor and no ballast resistor.

Jeff
 
Depending on the manufacturer, i have seen all different kinds of junk in the box.
Brand new faulty parts is not unheard of.

That being said, 67dart could also be correct.
Simply by replacing switch, you moved wires,temporarily repairing bad connection.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Depending on the manufacturer, i have seen all different kinds of junk in the box.
Brand new faulty parts is not unheard of.

That being said, 67dart could also be correct.
Simply by replacing switch, you moved wires,temporarily repairing bad connection.
Click to expand...

I'll try wiggling the wires and see if it makes a difference. ..
The harness is new and in beautiful condition. .....

Jeff
 
With no ballast,Yes.
Then you have power on run and start.
If you have it still in the car,check for power at coil with key on and at start.
 
TXDart said:
With no ballast,Yes.
Then you have power on run and start.
If you have it still in the car,check for power at coil with key on and at start.
Click to expand...
Yes, with the key in "Run" I have power to the coil.....no power when cranking though.
How has it been working without the splice and where in line should I put the splice?

Jeff
 
I don't know why it has been starting.
Did your new underhood harness come ready for electronic ignition and how did wire that dist.
 
TXDart said:
Did wire the ballast wires together ?
Click to expand...
Yes....just wired the leads together leaving the ballast out...
(I appreciate the help !)
I could just tac a wire from ign1 to ign2 on the switch and then plug it in...I'm sure that would give me cranking voltage .....it's just odd that I need to after 4 years.....

Jeff
 
YUP, 1&2. It is normal for the ign1 "ignition run" to go dead when cranking. The only ignition power source during cranking is the ign2 which feeds the coil+ side of the ballast.

If it was starting earlier, it could be you just had the key "partway" twisted and maybe the contacts in the switch are "sloppy" enough that it fired. 'It should not have'

The other common problem I've written about hundreds of times is voltage drop from the battery, through all the harness connections, to and from the switch, back out into the bay, to the ignition system and voltage regulator. This is OFTEN enough to cause overvoltage at the battery when charging, because the VR "thinks" the battery voltage is low........due to the voltage drop.
 
I wouldn't blame ign switch just yet. My electrical woes are still continuing similar to yours. Changing a switch didnt fix anything.
Good luck.
**Edit ** cant remember which terminals off hand I tested on the ign switch. But do a resistance/continuity check in run and in start. With switch removed. Also jiggle the key while testing.
 
You probably have an issue at the lower steering column connector and or firewall connector. I use a terminal block on the steering column connector (most are melted) and make sure the firewall connector is good. Check all connections using voltage drop method while moving wires. I gave up on aftermarket switches and disassembly old OEM and clean contacts. The key mechanism can also be aligned better with shim washers. Look at the switch when you hold it in start and you'll see what I mean.
 
mderoy340 said:
You probably have an issue at the lower steering column connector and or firewall connector. I use a terminal block on the steering column connector (most are melted) and make sure the firewall connector is good. Check all connections using voltage drop method while moving wires. I gave up on aftermarket switches and disassembly old OEM and clean contacts. The key mechanism can also be aligned better with shim washers. Look at the switch when you hold it in start and you'll see what I mean.
Click to expand...
I'm really leaning towards the bulkhead connector now.....thanks!

Jeff
 
This was the first problem I encountered after buying my Dart.It left me stranded on the trailer I brought it home on. The problem all came from poor connections where the steering column connects to the main harness.
 
FlDart360 said:
This was the first problem I encountered after buying my Dart.It left me stranded on the trailer I brought it home on. The problem all came from poor connections where the steering column connects to the main harness.
Click to expand...
Thanks.....I'll be checking that as well!

Jeff
 
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