8 Pin round connector on Rallye dash

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bmoparmofo

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Hi trying to reinstall the dash on a 67 Barracuda. Just wondering if this gray plastic round connector is supposed to seat all the way to the circuit board? Or if this is as far as it's supposed to go? Don't want to keep pushing on it and start breaking pins off or something.

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Murray said:
Yes, should seat all the way down. Has a locating keyway, is it properly positioned?
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I believe it is. I'll try to get an inspection mirror behind it tomorrow maybe. I replace the circuit boards when I was out as the old one had loose pins. It's also a new wiring harness. But boy it's just seems like it's way more effort to even get it as far as it is than it should be. It certainly doesn't want to go any further than it is... worried about snapping pins or something else.. I'll try to see what I can see what's an inspection mirror ..not too easy to see what's going on.
 
bmoparmofo said:
I believe it is. I'll try to get an inspection mirror behind it tomorrow maybe. I replace the circuit boards when I was out as the old one had loose pins. It's also a new wiring harness. But boy it's just seems like it's way more effort to even get it as far as it is than it should be. It certainly doesn't want to go any further than it is... worried about snapping pins or something else.. I'll try to see what I can see what's an inspection mirror ..not too easy to see what's going on.
Click to expand...
If the round connector is not fully engaging and it is new, I would guess that one or more of the connectors that go over the dash mounted pins are undersized. Find something the same diameter as the dash pins, maybe a nail the correct size and check each of the pin sockets in the round connector,
 
my 65 has a 1/4 or so gap between the connector and trace board. good idea to clean with scotchbrite pad and coat with diaelectric grease. My 65 center post is also "keyed" for alignment so it can only engage 1 way.
 
Many other models have this same round connector. The female terminals in them were oval shaped so the contact to pins was only 2 small lines. There isn't enough current passing here to require a substantial path. Factory never shoved it tight to the board either. I always found space to slide a pry tool under it.
Aftermarket replacement boards have shorter pins so any connector would finish closer to the board.
If you force it very tight then try to remove it again, and a pin lifts, the solder will peel the copper trace off the board. Explains why they weren't soldered.
Bottom line... if it isn't so loose that vibration would cause it to fall off, its good.
 
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