Built Small Block 360/727 Combo for Street/Strip Scamp. Opinions welcome!

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Dude's building a 7.30 1/8 mi car and people are arguing about whether he needs HANS restraint, CM cage... LOL!!! I think he needs a full funny car cage, engine diaper, fire suppression system, etc. Go big or go home! LOL. What a cluster **** of a thread.

OP- Your combo looks solid. It should haul ***! Post up results when you make it to the track. Just don't ask for opinions on your timeslip. lol
 
Solid cam and a 904 instead of a 727 are the changes I'd make. 904's now are plenty durable and don't have some of the hazards of a 727. 904 will be .10-.20 faster as well.

Combo is decent to make the number. Get it to 60'.

7.30 is the cutoff for requiring a roll bar, IIRC. Some places start at 7.50.
 
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I experiment and never ask for experience or opinion.
because all that matters is my experience and my opinion, as many may differ. most of the time they do.
 
I experiment and never ask for experience or opinion.
because all that matters is my experience and my opinion, as many may differ. most of the time they do.
Lot of times when I ask for people's experience I can get some different ideas on things to try. I don't necessarily have to try them all, but maybe someone can offer an angle that I hadn't thought of before. I can say by just putting it out there I can think of a couple things right off my head the people have helped me with and lord for bid I have to admit the two that I'm thinking of Triple R helped me with LOL...
 
Hello FABO members. I'm looking for some opinions on the drivetrain for my '72 Scamp. Looking to run 7.30s-7.50s in the 1/8 and still go to the occasional cruise night. But the car will see mostly track but only be on the street every once and a while. Here's What I'm thinking. Feel free to comment and make suggestions.
360 block bored .030 over with kb107 pistons
Holley strip dominator intake with 750 carb
Edelbrock Performer RPM 63cc heads
1.5 roller rockers
Stock crank and Rods with ARP Bolts (not looking to go stroker at the moment)
COMP XE294H Cam
727 with manual valve body, low first gear set, race clutches,etc
4300-4500 stall
8 3/4 Sure Grip with 4.30 Gears (debating 4.56s)
28x10x15 slick on 15x10 Weld Prostars (car has already been mini tubbed and springs relocated 4 inches)
Super Stock Springs
Adjustable shocks in rear
Car has disc brakes, and will have no back seat, 2 Kirkey racing seats and mild steel 8 point cage.
Look forward to input! Thanks in advance
I think everything should meet your expectations and as far as the roll bar goes be careful with it on the street with no helmet on it can be extremely dangerous. You know where you're most likely to get into an accident...
 
My first post I was only telling the OP what I learned the hard way. The heavier it is the more power you need to go fast. My car went 10.00's It was an all original street car I ran through the exhaust . The spare was even in the car as required to hold the factory tank from ripping the floor out. I even had the trunk mat in the car. and the floor mount cassette player. They are usually 3000 - 3200 lbs. My car weighed 3650 with the mild steel cage.

You have to spend a lot more money on the drive line to make up for that weight. More than the cost of a lighter cage. I didn't tell the OP anything else . But As usual yellowrose and others know everything there is to know and every one else is a jackass. There is new technology and if you don't accept that in life, It will pass you by. I know I am a recipient .

Most of you know I am not a machinist. My son is, And builds some pretty radical motors. What I know I learn from him . He has been doing this for over 11 years at a well know Machine shop and has his own new machines in our garage behind our house. There is nothing he cannot do including welding up motors and heads. There is a long line just to get him to do work. He is friends with several racers and does machine work for a NASCAR race shop.

"I can deck a block faster than you" Big deal your **** is still cave man style compared to the finish of these new cutters
Remember there are three words of wisdom when taking a motor to a machine shop.
Fast , Cheap , and Good

1. Fast and Good are not Cheap
2. Cheap and Fast are not Good
3. Good and Cheap are not Fast

As far as oiling mods , I did post some of them. If you want more come pay to get a motor done and he will teach you. He is just finishing up last years points champion. SBChevy Dart race motor. He chased me and the dog out of the garage. He said we were causing dust. He sold that new machine he bought. They picked it up Friday . He bought another one and is buying a new Balancer.

Those of you that live near can stop in when ever. My address is well known. Social media "SK Machine" My son is 34 a big guy 6'4" 230 lbs been racing since he was 13. He is a well mannered person and will work with anyone on any type of build on their budget. Until someone becomes an A$$. He does not have much of an overhead every machine and tool here is paid for.

Street bikes, Harleys, Drag race motors, sprint cars 358's and 410's. Nitro , methanol, Diesel, Modified Nascar. Roll cages . Chassis work. The list goes on. There are members that come here just to watch some of the things he knows how to do.
I don't have a clue on things he knows. Some of the tools I didn't even know existed. I taught him Mopars . The rest he learned in schools and on the job. He draws things on the computer in minutes and sends it to the plasma-cam. I wouldn't even know how to enter the program.

My job is to watch the cutter and make sure the pieces fall out so they don't get caught. I am also in-charge of cleaning up the metal chips and driving the dog and grandsons around on the Golf cart. Otherwise they are in the garage asking the two famous questions. Whats That? and Why?
 
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My first post I was only telling the OP what I learned the hard way. The heavier it is the more power you need to go fast. My car went 10.00's It was an all original street car I ran through the exhaust . The spare was even in the car as required to hold the factory tank from ripping the floor out. I even had the trunk mat in the car. and the floor mount cassette player. They are usually 3000 - 3200 lbs. My car weighed 3650 with the mild steel cage.

You have to spend a lot more money on the drive line to make up for that weight. More than the cost of a lighter cage. I didn't tell the OP anything else . But As usual yellowrose and others know everything there is to know and every one else is a jackass. There is new technology and if you don't accept that in life, It will pass you by. I know I am a recipient .

Most of you know I am not a machinist. My son is, And builds some pretty radical motors. What I know I learn from him . He has been doing this for over 11 years at a well know Machine shop and has his own new machines in our garage behind our house. There is nothing he cannot do including welding up motors and heads. There is a long line just to get him to do work. He is friends with several racers and does machine work for a NASCAR race shop.

"I can deck a block faster than you" Big deal your **** is still cave man style compared to the finish of these new cutters
Remember there are three words of wisdom when taking a motor to a machine shop.
Fast , Cheap , and Good

1. Fast and Good are not Cheap
2. Cheap and Fast are not Good
3. Good and Cheap are not Fast

As far as oiling mods , I did post some of them. If you want more come pay to get a motor done and he will teach you. He is just finishing up last years points champion. SBChevy Dart race motor. He chased me and the dog out of the garage. He said we were causing dust. He sold that new machine he bought. They picked it up Friday . He bought another one and is buying a new Balancer.

Those of you that live near can stop in when ever. My address is well known. Social media "SK Machine" My son is 34 a big guy 6'4" 230 lbs been racing since he was 13. He is a well mannered person and will work with anyone on any type of build on their budget. Until someone becomes an A$$. He does not have much of an overhead every machine and tool here is paid for.

Street bikes, Harleys, Drag race motors, sprint cars 358's and 410's. Nitro , methanol, Diesel, Modified Nascar. Roll cages . Chassis work. The list goes on. There are members that come here just to watch some of the things he knows how to do.
I don't have a clue on things he knows. Some of the tools I didn't even know existed. I taught him Mopars . The rest he learned in schools and on the job. He draws things on the computer in minutes and sends it to the plasma-cam. I wouldn't even know how to enter the program.

My job is to watch the cutter and make sure the pieces fall out so they don't get caught. I am also in-charge of cleaning up the metal chips and driving the dog and grandsons around on the Golf cart. Otherwise they are in the garage asking the two famous questions. Whats That? and Why?


I'm going to answer this ignorance and them I'm done.

If you can't walk up to a machine and run it, you are the LAST person that should say anything about how **** gets done.

Second, Jon Kasse still uses a cave man block mill to do his ****. You want to call him a cave man, go ahead. Your arrogance is appalling.

You come on a thread and criticize the OP for using mild steel because of weight. How idiotic is that? Does he have a TIG welder? Most guys don't (I do and I can use it...do you and can you?). There is more than one way to save weight. Instead of criticizing the OP maybe you can help him learn other ways to reduce weight.

The most sad part of this whole deal is your assumption of the ignorance of the OP, in that you ASSume he doesn't know weight is a factor, and that it takes more HP to move more weight. That's an assault on the intelligence of the OP. You don't know his circumstances or anything else. Shame on you.

As for your "secret" oil mods I'll pass. I know in FACT how you fix it. I've done it.

Get over yourself.
 
I'm going to answer this ignorance and them I'm done.

If you can't walk up to a machine and run it, you are the LAST person that should say anything about how **** gets done.

Second, Jon Kasse still uses a cave man block mill to do his ****. You want to call him a cave man, go ahead. Your arrogance is appalling.

You come on a thread and criticize the OP for using mild steel because of weight. How idiotic is that? Does he have a TIG welder? Most guys don't (I do and I can use it...do you and can you?). There is more than one way to save weight. Instead of criticizing the OP maybe you can help him learn other ways to reduce weight.

The most sad part of this whole deal is your assumption of the ignorance of the OP, in that you ASSume he doesn't know weight is a factor, and that it takes more HP to move more weight. That's an assault on the intelligence of the OP. You don't know his circumstances or anything else. Shame on you.

As for your "secret" oil mods I'll pass. I know in FACT how you fix it. I've done it.

Get over yourself.
Are you sure you got this right? It look like in post 10 he was given a strong recommendation for a TIG welded roll bar. Then Pittsburgh racer came in and disputed that necessity. Then somehow Dale Earnhardt got involved LOL and now everybody's calling everybody names-- what the hell!?
 
Are you sure you got this right? It look like in post 10 he was given a strong recommendation for a TIG welded roll bar. Then Pittsburgh racer came in and disputed that necessity. Then somehow Dale Earnhardt got involved LOL and now everybody's calling everybody names-- what the hell!?


If you ever notice anything from my posts I try to get the point across to try to stick to a budget but also built it safely. It is so easy now to build a street strip car that will run 10’s or very low 11’s. A small .520 Racer Brown solid lift cam, ProMax heads, port matched Victor340 intake, 750-850 Holley carb, 10.5-11.0 comp, 4.20-4.30 gear, 4400-5500 stall convertor, wrapped in a 3200 pound or less car. No tricks, no gimmicks. Now as far as cages you may feel safer with one but on the street if crap hits the fan it may do more harm than good.
 
If you ever notice anything from my posts I try to get the point across to try to stick to a budget but also built it safely. It is so easy now to build a street strip car that will run 10’s or very low 11’s. A small .520 Racer Brown solid lift cam, ProMax heads, port matched Victor340 intake, 750-850 Holley carb, 10.5-11.0 comp, 4.20-4.30 gear, 4400-5500 stall convertor, wrapped in a 3200 pound or less car. No tricks, no gimmicks. Now as far as cages you may feel safer with one but on the street if crap hits the fan it may do more harm than good.
Yep I'm still standing on post 56
 
Are you sure you got this right? It look like in post 10 he was given a strong recommendation for a TIG welded roll bar. Then Pittsburgh racer came in and disputed that necessity. Then somehow Dale Earnhardt got involved LOL and now everybody's calling everybody names-- what the hell!?


If you want to stand on post ten, then you are suggesting that NHRA is ignorant of what welding processes do what.

A MIG weld is no more or less likely to fracture than a TIG weld.

The rule book states that a MS cage can be MIG or TIG welded, but CM must be TIG welded. There are reasons for this. You can also use the oxy-acetylene process to weld CM with out issue but NHRA want allow that because it puts a ton of heat in the weld joint. Know that many airplane frames are welded using this process.

Again, the OP did nothing wrong. He'll be fine. Think of the legal mess NHRA would be in if in fact, MS was as deadly as some on here would have you think. Anyone who was hurt in a crash where the chassis was constructed to NHRA standards could hold NHRA liable for that. That's crazy.

This is an example of someone running off at their keyboard trying to hype their ****. How what they do is better than what everyone else does, and what they won't do because they think acting über safe makes them a hero or something.

I do agree with a street car and a roll bar and no helmet. You get in a crash and smack your head off a bar with no helmet the best you can hope for is a scrambled brain.
 
Edit: lol..
The op is on track in my opinion for his goals. I would start subsidiary threads on the things mentioned- cam choice, transmission choice, and safety equipment both on and off road.
That way you can start a thread that asked for people's experience LOL, and every so once in awhile instead of a shitshow it can be learning experience...
 
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Are you sure you got this right? It look like in post 10 he was given a strong recommendation for a TIG welded roll bar. Then Pittsburgh racer came in and disputed that necessity. Then somehow Dale Earnhardt got involved LOL and now everybody's calling everybody names-- what the hell!?

Sounds like another day of Dale Sr. stirring it up..... Didn't he die about 20 years ago? Seriously, I would see how the combo works out before even thinking about putting any bars in the car. That's just my opinion on it. When they tell me to either slow down or upgrade the safety equipment, then it's time. Otherwise it's just another day at the office...

JW
 
I'm going to answer this ignorance and them I'm done.

If you can't walk up to a machine and run it, you are the LAST person that should say anything about how **** gets done.

Second, Jon Kasse still uses a cave man block mill to do his ****. You want to call him a cave man, go ahead. Your arrogance is appalling.

You come on a thread and criticize the OP for using mild steel because of weight. How idiotic is that? Does he have a TIG welder? Most guys don't (I do and I can use it...do you and can you?). There is more than one way to save weight. Instead of criticizing the OP maybe you can help him learn other ways to reduce weight.

The most sad part of this whole deal is your assumption of the ignorance of the OP, in that you ASSume he doesn't know weight is a factor, and that it takes more HP to move more weight. That's an assault on the intelligence of the OP. You don't know his circumstances or anything else. Shame on you.

As for your "secret" oil mods I'll pass. I know in FACT how you fix it. I've done it.

Get over yourself.
Here was my first post:

"That mild cage is very heavy. Get a molly cage half the weight. Just check the shipping weight on both. You will not believe the difference."

What was said that you had to put your two cents in and criticize me and my son?Do you honestly believe I do not know how to run these machines. I gave one to Ryan @ Shady Dell because he was using a harbor freight bench top drill press I bought my first mill and lathe over 20 years ago.

I don't say this to many members but I have come to realize as many others informed me that you are really a "trouble making *** ".

I did not criticize him in any way. Go back and read my first post. But you my friend are not very well liked by many others because of your foul mouth .

If you are doing so much work on your machines and you are making all this money. Why don't you buy a membership or why not list your location? I know why because all you do is bull **** your way through life.

If the OP didn't agree with what I said he has that choice. I was only making him aware of the big weight difference. I don't know him or what he knows. But God forbid any one shares any knowledge that some may not be aware of.

I'll bet you can't shut your big mouth as you said. You know everything about anything and that is well known. Now why don't you just "Troll On" and ignore my posts that do not concern you.

I remember you asking me for oiling mods. I said to myself that you are not worth the time of day at that time just from seeing how you critisize everyone that has a different opinion then you. A real jerk I would never help with anything. wah! wah! waaah! LMAO at you. "Life is like a box of Chocolate" DUH!
 
this is fricken pathetic.

Just stfu and help the OP instead of this BS back and forth. Go get a damn room!

Moly is NOT 1/2 the weight, but I digress. it's DOM .120 wall vs .083 which is actually only 1/3, but if 30-40 pounds on a 8 point bar is the breaking point for a car that isn't looking for every 1/100 of a second... so be it.

All the bars from an 8 point SW bar was around 100-120 pounds IIRC. I picked one up that was strapped together.

For the OP, you're on the right track and your build should be capable of running the numbers you want. As I mentioned, get it to leave the line hard and it should be a piece of cake. It's a 400+hp build.
 
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this is fricken pathetic.

Just stfu and help the OP instead of this BS back and forth. Go get a damn room!
I fell for the agitator as well and edited my post. Just LOL... I can't go back and forth. My mom said The more you roll with a turd the stinkyer you get...
 
Well. I still don't understand "crackerjack" what was wrong with telling the OP that CM is lighter. Is this a discussion forum?
Isn't that the reason a 904 was suggested. Less reciprocating "weight" plus a sprag. The 904 is only suggested when the car is lighter. 727 is recommended in a heavy car. Like a car with a heavy cage. Every lb. you lose from the car helps. Once you weld the cage in your decision is made.

Why are any suggestions made that you don't agree with taboo. I did not try and sell him CM cage and I did not condemn the OP in any way if he decided not to use one. I just gave him some info like your sorry *** always does. If you don't like that ignore it. Some of the things you state are far from the real world . I don't comment with putting you down. And who should grow up?

I am not saying I know it all and can admit when I am wrong. When it comes to a Hans device I paid the $1200 for it and $600 for the helmet. I thought it important to keep him safe. To me you can never do enough when it comes to safety. A Hutchinson devise is awkward but it is still better than nothing at all at its lower cost. At 63 I saw to many not walk away in slower 1/8 mile cars. If you have a $5 head Get yourself a $5 helmet.

Speed don't kill its the sudden stop. We raced everywhere and every sport. I am not speaking from lack of experience . I know I have learned things on this site from many good members. Not one thing from you.
What if I would watch all of your posts and call you out for everything you suggest. Do you live in a perfect world on an island by yourself? I don't think so.

Well its 6 AM I got to go clean up the metal chips and wipe the machines down I'll be back with a box tissues for ya at lunch. LOL
 
Well. I still don't understand "crackerjack" what was wrong with telling the OP that CM is lighter. Is this a discussion forum?
Isn't that the reason a 904 was suggested. Less reciprocating "weight" plus a sprag. The 904 is only suggested when the car is lighter. 727 is recommended in a heavy car. Like a car with a heavy cage. Every lb. you lose from the car helps. Once you weld the cage in your decision is made.

Why are any suggestions made that you don't agree with taboo. I did not try and sell him CM cage and I did not condemn the OP in any way if he decided not to use one. I just gave him some info like your sorry *** always does. If you don't like that ignore it. Some of the things you state are far from the real world . I don't comment with putting you down. And who should grow up?

I am not saying I know it all and can admit when I am wrong. When it comes to a Hans device I paid the $1200 for it and $600 for the helmet. I thought it important to keep him safe. To me you can never do enough when it comes to safety. A Hutchinson devise is awkward but it is still better than nothing at all at its lower cost. At 63 I saw to many not walk away in slower 1/8 mile cars. If you have a $5 head Get yourself a $5 helmet.

Speed don't kill its the sudden stop. We raced everywhere and every sport. I am not speaking from lack of experience . I know I have learned things on this site from many good members. Not one thing from you.
What if I would watch all of your posts and call you out for everything you suggest. Do you live in a perfect world on an island by yourself? I don't think so.

Well its 6 AM I got to go clean up the metal chips and wipe the machines down I'll be back with a box tissues for ya at lunch. LOL

Wow... you can't stay away from the personal attack **** can you. Lets see why not CM? Initial cost plus increased installation cost for minimal benefit might be the answer. How much is it exactly different in weight savings? Why aren't cup cars made out of moly if it's so great and the solution? Hmmm....

Ignore is a wonderful feature and why I took you off the last time is beyond me.

Have at it. No need for tissues here, I'm not the one crying. LOL
 
My 1970 Duster with a Dana, small block, and an 8.50 mild steel cage weighted 2575 at one time. I turned it into my “old man” bracket door and put stock doors with wind up windows and a few other items to make it a one man user friendly race car and with my fat 260 pounds of lard behind the wheel now weights in at 2860 pounds at the starting line.
 
3650 every screw the car came with was in the car was on the car. Even the factory spare and jack and trunk mat. I have one here just like it with no cage I'll have my son put it on the scales when he gets time.
 
3650 every screw the car came with was in the car was on the car. Even the factory spare and jack and trunk mat. I have one here just like it with no cage I'll have my son put it on the scales when he gets time.


I hope you aren’t talking about an A body. 3650 pounds someone has their finger on the scale
 
That orange duster in the avatar weighed 3650 with drag lights and front runners. It was the way they came but with a mild steel cage. The only thing it didn't have was heater hoses the core was in the car. It is a resto block I know they are heavy but the heads are aluminum. It took two old guys to carry the hoop and the back bars. the swing outs were off. Here is a picture of the interior and the motor. It was a street car but needed a cage due to the times,

spoiler pics 800.jpg


Steve 100.JPG


Steve 102.JPG


Steve 096.JPG


DSCN1678.jpg


DUSTER ON LINE.jpg
 
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