A998 how to defeat lockup for a non lockup converter?

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motorpirate

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So we finally have Danys trans together and the shift kit/valve body mods are next.

It's an A998 from an 03 B van.
Electronic lockup.
We have ordered a 10" Turbo Action non lockup converter.
26 spline (lockup input shaft) with drive flats not slots.
The people at Turbo Action could not have been nicer!!!
Our question is, what do we need to do about the lockup features in the valve body, if anything?
It is electronic lockup with an electric solenoid on the valve body.
Is not applying 12 volts to it enough to deactivate it?
Or do I need to block one or both of the converter related valves?
I see 2 potential spots, block in place of the lockup spring?
Or the converter valve spring?
Both?
Neither?
And, what would happen if it tried to "lock up" on a non lockup converter?
And, thanks in advance guys.
We would not be within sight of her making a 13 second pass in what was a 17 second car without everyone's support on this site!!
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Put in a Turbo Action Cheetah valve body #17156. That vb will make a monster out of that trans. I have one in a 999 lockup. Surprised TA Didn't recommend it.
 
fklskv said:
Put in a Turbo Action Cheetah valve body #17156. That vb will make a monster out of that trans. I have one in a 999 lockup. Surprised TA Didn't recommend it.
Click to expand...
With the purchase of a $700 converter there is NO money in the race fund for a VB, especially as we still hope to put some drag radials on it next.
I'm setting it up for her to shift at 5K itself with governor and VB mods.
But yes, in a perfect world it needs a performance VB or TF3 manual only shift kit. But that's not in the cards now.
 
Yep, if you don't want it to lock, simply do not activate the electrical terminals.
 
67Dart273 said:
Yep, if you don't want it to lock, simply do not activate the electrical terminals.
Click to expand...
That's what I think too. But....
The lockup valve will still move to open sending pressure towards the converter.
The solenoid (normally open) allows the pressure to vent, then when the solenoid is closed it allows the converter to pressurize, locking it.
At least that's how I, as not a transmission expert, think it works.
Would it be better to block the lockup valve closed so all that pressurised fluid isnt whirring around unnecessarily?
 
Remove spring #10 and using a 5/16 rubber check ball or small piece of steel tubing block the valve from stroking against the end plate. Leave the solenoid unplugged, you are now ready.
 
Nice! Make sure the end plate is flush with the housing and also that it doesn't overlap the edge where it bolts to the main valve body, you don't want any leaks in these areas.
 
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