How to buy a classic long distance

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Duggie

Duggie

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Some of you may think I've been living under a rock, but I don't know how to buy a classic at long distance. I clicked a web site inquiry for auto shipping rates and my phone and email has been blowing up for two weeks. It's a start. So how do you get a supposedly original '60s car inspected from out of state? Do you pay to appraise w/ an inspection? Do you tie up the car sale contingent on inspection? How do you complete the sale - transfer cash and title? Other than the above questions, I'm pretty sure I have it all figured out!

Thanks in advance for the help!
 
Duggie said:
Some of you may think I've been living under a rock, but I don't know how to buy a classic at long distance. I clicked a web site inquiry for auto shipping rates and my phone and email has been blowing up for two weeks. It's a start. So how do you get a supposedly original '60s car inspected from out of state? Do you pay to appraise w/ an inspection? Do you tie up the car sale contingent on inspection? How do you complete the sale - transfer cash and title? Other than the above questions, I'm pretty sure I have it all figured out!

Thanks in advance for the help!
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I bought a Duster about 2000 miles away. I went by the pictures first, and what the guy said 2nd. Mind you, it was a lower end purchase, so I wasn't going to be out my left leg or anything. He put a add out for somebody with a empty trailer coming my way and we found somebody to haul it for us. Very risky, but lots of ways to skin a cat. The more $$$$, the caution I'd take to protect your investment. And if your talking 25k, I'd take the trip myself and haul it back. 2k is one thing, but 15k is another.
 
A cool old car is a big enough purchase, for me at least, to buy a plane ticket and go see it in person. I will never buy a car sight unseen. There is too much bad bodywork that can be hidden with pictures.
 
If you cannot afford to go look in person, buy local.
 
When I was looking to purchase and found something that caught my eye I emailed first than if I wanted to take it further I would call and speak to the owner mind you I live in another continent. If the Car seemed pretty promising I would get it inspected, I can’t remember the name of them as they have many agents all over North America and Canada. It cost me $475 US they would go all over the vehicle and if it was registered they would drive it put it up on a lift check it all out. Send me 60-70 photos and give me a report weather it was a good driver or a junker. For me it was worth it as the first one I got checked out looked great in the photos but on closer inspection the car was rotted out and one bank was Smokey for the price he was asking than shipping 22K US then to pump another 15-20k Aus to repair body and motor. The $475 Was justified. I needed to pay up front before inspection.
 
If you can't afford to see it in person, you can afford to take a beatin' on it..... Your 20' may be someone's 50 footer. A floor patch in your eyes is a repop pan. Someone else thinks metal from Lowes with rivets is acceptable. Then there is the screw you over crowd.... Pick your poison- you were warned.....

Good luck,
JW
 
See if the guy will do a Skype/facetime/whatever video call and go over the car to see if it's worth the trip in person. As far as tying up the sale contingent on anything; how do you plan on enforcing that if it doesn't go your way? I would want to see that the guy who is selling it is also the same guy on the title. Too much crap someone could easily buffalo a distant absent buyer.
 
Duggie said:
Some of you may think I've been living under a rock, but I don't know how to buy a classic at long distance. I clicked a web site inquiry for auto shipping rates and my phone and email has been blowing up for two weeks. It's a start. So how do you get a supposedly original '60s car inspected from out of state? Do you pay to appraise w/ an inspection? Do you tie up the car sale contingent on inspection? How do you complete the sale - transfer cash and title? Other than the above questions, I'm pretty sure I have it all figured out!

Thanks in advance for the help!
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I once was looking at a 69 Mustang in another state. I called the local Ford dealership and spoke to the service manager. I explained that I had an odd request, but was hoping that one of their mechanics could go do an inspection for me, and I'd pay $50. Gave him my number and he asked his guys. One of them called back and helped me out, he was happy to do it. I sent him $50 through PayPal. Ultimately did not buy the car, but I looked at it as a $50 insurance policy.
 
I bought two from a distance. One I was able to drive 300 miles and look and drive it. I bought it and the seller for gas money hauled it to me.
The other was 1500 miles away. I used Lemon Squad ($225) to inspect the car. Before they went out, they asked if I had anything I wanted checked. They coordinated with the owner, inspected the car including a test drive. They sent me a detailed report and 140 pics. I wired the money through my bank and had the owner overnight the title. I then had it hauled to my house.
 
I am on the east coast and found a car in California I wanted. I paid someone who inspected it and sent me more than 100 pictures of the car. He was a lot cheaper than $475. I ended up not buying the car and found one in AZ. A friend of a member here on FABO. Before the purchase I spoke to the owner who sent me numerous pictures and videos of the car. We agreed on a price and I wired him the money. He fedex'ed the paperwork. Found a shipper and about 2 weeks later the car was delivered to me. The car was as expected when it arrived. It was very scary sending someone I don't know from a hole in the wall money but it all worked out. Good luck to you
 
I bought my Colt race car last year from Vancouver WA from a Dealer/Broker. I am in Texas, over 2K miles round trip. Money transfer was easy because he was a Dealer. Transport was the iffy part, it's not a good route from WA to Dallas, not many trucks haul that route. I got it moved finally, outside, lower rack, on a truck going on route to Houston. Hood was stolen somewhere between Fort Collins CO and Abilene TX. Dude had insurance, but didn't want me to put a claim in, so we split the transport cost. Sucked to lose the hood, but it was in rough shape anyway. Make sure if you pay to get it transported that they are bonded and insured. Inside is a plus, but in my case would have doubled the cost. A drivers inspection report before it leaves is good piece of mind. Just what I learned from my purchase. But heck today with this virus and cheap gas, ROAD TRIP!!!!
Trailer leaving Oregon.jpeg
 
I wouldn’t buy anything I didn’t personally inspect. I bought a plane ticket when I bought mine and went out to see it. I like to meet who I am doing business with. Can be a lot of clues on honesty.

Shipping depends on how valuable the car is. If it is a high value car, you may want it shipped in an enclosed trailer. Very pricey, maybe $2k. If it is a driver, ship it in open trailer, about $7-800 (prices are based on my experience from California to Kansas, quoted for comparison only).

The open shipping vendors all do the same thing. You contract with one of them, they keep about $150 of your $800. Then they post it on a message board and an independent trucker takes the job. No matter what they tell you, it is pretty much the same for all of them.
 
dano said:
How far away are we talking?
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Great input! I'm sniffing around '63,64 Dart GT /6 Verts. A member has a mild hot rod one in CO. I have interest in what looks like original condition in NC, and MD. With C-19, and being in my 60's, I'm not getting on an airplane anytime soon. I used to say, "Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to get me." Now I'm thinking I know I'm paranoid but am I paranoid enough? Same thoughts are going to keep me out of motel rooms, on a road trip. The carrier quotes I'm being flooded with are open carrier. Thanks for the tips on inspection and bonding!

Sounds like a search for auto inspection agents is a place to start. Did you guys tie the car up with partial money while having the car inspected? I thought there would be some kind of escrow service for cars. Handing someone +/- $11K without looking at them doesn't leave me feeling warm and fuzzy.
 
Defiantly not over night trips then. CO might be do-able from Tacoma. Yea with the 19 afoot you're smart to stay away from masses of asses. Like the others said fine an inspection service if you're serious, get the VIN, verify the title and be sure the shipper loads the car with the correct vin, description, etc.
 
I purchased my B-body off of ebang in 2011. It was listed 2000 (AZ-NY) miles away and being sold privately but the guy was working out of a dealer who specialized in Vettes. The gentleman I was purchasing it from was a NY transplant so we had a small bond. All sounded good. At the time there were a few bids but you could still "buy it now" and if you used that it would include shipping. There was also insurance through PP. Everything was looking good but I was still nervous. I checked the business out on BBB. OK. I then contacted the local police department and asked about the business. All Good. I pulled the trigger and all worked out near perfectly. Your situation sounds different but do as much homework as possible. Talk to the seller. Ask specific questions and get pictures.
Someone suggested asking for a FABO member to go have a look. There are a lot of guys and gals here that know the trouble spots. Maybe even better than a general mechanic. Avoid cars in the rust belt!!!! Good Luck.
 
JoePole1 said:
I purchased my B-body off of ebang in 2011. It was listed 2000 (AZ-NY) miles away and being sold privately but the guy was working out of a dealer who specialized in Vettes. The gentleman I was purchasing it from was a NY transplant so we had a small bond. All sounded good. At the time there were a few bids but you could still "buy it now" and if you used that it would include shipping. There was also insurance through PP. Everything was looking good but I was still nervous. I checked the business out on BBB. OK. I then contacted the local police department and asked about the business. All Good. I pulled the trigger and all worked out near perfectly. Your situation sounds different but do as much homework as possible. Talk to the seller. Ask specific questions and get pictures.
Someone suggested asking for a FABO member to go have a look. There are a lot of guys and gals here that know the trouble spots. Maybe even better than a general mechanic. Avoid cars in the rust belt!!!! Good Luck.
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Getting closer to picking one out of those advertised to pursue. Looking for a FABO member is thought provoking. I've looked for A&P mechanics that specialized in the type of airplane do inspections in the past. Worth the effort.
 
Duggie said:
Great input! I'm sniffing around '63,64 Dart GT /6 Verts. A member has a mild hot rod one in CO. I have interest in what looks like original condition in NC, and MD. With C-19, and being in my 60's, I'm not getting on an airplane anytime soon. I used to say, "Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to get me." Now I'm thinking I know I'm paranoid but am I paranoid enough? Same thoughts are going to keep me out of motel rooms, on a road trip. The carrier quotes I'm being flooded with are open carrier. Thanks for the tips on inspection and bonding!

Sounds like a search for auto inspection agents is a place to start. Did you guys tie the car up with partial money while having the car inspected? I thought there would be some kind of escrow service for cars. Handing someone +/- $11K without looking at them doesn't leave me feeling warm and fuzzy.
Click to expand...
I didn't give any money up front. I had to pay for the inspection up front. They called the owner that day and coordinated the inspection. They had the report and pictures to me in two days of the inspection. I paid for an enclosed trailer $1200 NY to KS. I figured it was cheaper than me driving out, getting it, and driving back.
 
So its possible to buy a car out of the rust belt? Did Lemon Squad leave you with open questions? Did they miss anything? The car that blows my skirt up the most is in the rust belt. Second owner, original except exterior paint. Dash, bumpers, trunk, and engine bay look real good in the pics. $1,100 for an open carrier to Tacoma. It does have a one year old paint job, and I gotta wonder what that could be covering up and if Lemon Squad has the experience to find hidden trouble. I've had some pretty crappy home inspectors in the past, and would run from a fiberglass boat with a "fresh paint job". This is much more emotional than picking a ripe melon...
 
Duggie said:
So its possible to buy a car out of the rust belt? Did Lemon Squad leave you with open questions? Did they miss anything? The car that blows my skirt up the most is in the rust belt. Second owner, original except exterior paint. Dash, bumpers, trunk, and engine bay look real good in the pics. $1,100 for an open carrier to Tacoma. It does have a one year old paint job, and I gotta wonder what that could be covering up and if Lemon Squad has the experience to find hidden trouble. I've had some pretty crappy home inspectors in the past, and would run from a fiberglass boat with a "fresh paint job". This is much more emotional than picking a ripe melon...
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My previous owner had a climate controlled five car garage, never drove it in the rain, etc... In my opinion Lemon Squad did a great job, and I wouldn't hesitate to use them again. You can call and talk to the rep, explain the new paint, and you want to check X,Y, and Z. They use an area car person who's been in the car business and is certified. I thought they did a very thorough inspection with 140 pics. I understand its a nerve racking experience. We work hard for our money!!
 
Ain't that the truth!

I'm familiar with routine rust areas like trunk, floor pan, door bottoms, kicker panels, and fender skirts. Are there unique areas on a 64 Dart I would want to make sure an inspector had a close look at?

Thanks again!
 
Duggie said:
Ain't that the truth!

I'm familiar with routine rust areas like trunk, floor pan, door bottoms, kicker panels, and fender skirts. Are there unique areas on a 64 Dart I would want to make sure an inspector had a close look at?

Thanks again!
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You seem to have mentioned all the common body problem areas. I don't know much about that model, but I'm sure we have members who can help. I had them look at oil pressure, smoking tail pipes, transmission, shifting, (mines a 4 speed) and suspension. The test drive was nice. The inspector listed the problems he saw and also assigned the car a grade A-F. Mine had a few problems, nothing major. He graded it as a B.
 
Not specific to 64 Dart but at the base of the rear window under the molding can be a rust concern. Especially the corners. Also the vent panel under the hood in front of the windshield. Ask if they have some sort of scope for checking tight spots.
 
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