Norris W2 Rocker Arm

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Les Gibson

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Need the help of the collective knowledge base here.

I run a 382 stroker small block, based on a 360, in my 72 Dart. It has W2 Econo heads with Norris 1.6 ratio rockers. Yesterday I had the adjuster on the #2 cylinder intake rocker back out and before I could catch it the adjuster is now seized in the rocker arm. I have seen in some sources that Norris went out of business some years ago, and others say they still make rockers in limited quantities. Does anyone know for sure? I haven't removed this one rocker from the engine yet, so I haven't done a complete evaluation of whether or not it can be saved. Can anyone help me out here?
 
Send it to my son he'll fix it SK Machine social media. Are your push rods Ball&Ball or Cup&Ball. We changed are Norris rockers to Ball&Ball. "Shady Dell". Ryan Johnson conveniently lost them.
 
You need to figure out why the adjusters are coming loose. Unless you just forgot to get one tight, that’s a sign the valve train isn’t happy. Could be geometry or it could be the pushrods flexing. Or both. You can’t get the pushrod too stiff with offset rockers.
 
You need to figure out why the adjusters are coming loose. Unless you just forgot to get one tight, that’s a sign the valve train isn’t happy. Could be geometry or it could be the pushrods flexing. Or both. You can’t get the pushrod too stiff with offset rockers.
I may well be that I forgot to make sure it was tight. I ran through the valves late Saturday night after working all day and may well have missed it.
 
When I was finally able to remove the rocker arm in question after work yesterday, I found the damage wasn't that bad. I was able to remove the adjuster with a little coaxing and a lot of spray lube. All I had to do is re-tap the threads in the rocker arm and install a new adjuster. Saw no signs of any cracking or other degradation. I appreciate everyone who responded to my request for help.
 
When I was finally able to remove the rocker arm in question after work yesterday, I found the damage wasn't that bad. I was able to remove the adjuster with a little coaxing and a lot of spray lube. All I had to do is re-tap the threads in the rocker arm and install a new adjuster. Saw no signs of any cracking or other degradation. I appreciate everyone who responded to my request for help.

If your heads are the econo heads they have saddles like an OE head. Most likely, if you didn’t correct the geometry it’s wrong.

If you haven’t been to b3racingengines.com it’s worth going there and reading his tech articles on geometry. Virtually all these heads need some correction.

Even if that isn’t what caused your issue, now is the time to correct the geometry if you haven’t done it.

Just an FYI
 
If your heads are the econo heads they have saddles like an OE head. Most likely, if you didn’t correct the geometry it’s wrong.

If you haven’t been to b3racingengines.com it’s worth going there and reading his tech articles on geometry. Virtually all these heads need some correction.

Even if that isn’t what caused your issue, now is the time to correct the geometry if you haven’t done it.

Just an FYI
Thanks for the link. I didn't build this engine. It was done by a gentleman named Lou Jasmin in Connecticut. I've been told that he developed this particular small block engine package back in the 80s and ran Super Gas with it for many years. I know he shimmed the shafts to correct lateral movement but the shafts are still seated in the saddles without any lift as shown in the B3 articles. I really believe my issue was just a case of forgetting to make sure this particular adjuster was tight. But the B3 link has a lot of interesting information in it that I may have to look into.
 
Last I heard he was still in business working out of his garage at home. Hasn't been that long ago.
 
any news if they are still making rockers and a price?
 
Since I wasn't paying attention when I removed the rocker arm in question, do the groves in the rocker shaft face down towards the head, up towards the rockers or does it matter?
 
Down. The rocker shafts *should* have a notch on one end. When your putting the shafts on, the notch should be facing down and on your left on each head. This keeps the oil holes down and angled correctly in the saddle.
 
If the grooves are for oil distribution I would think that they would go on the load side, same as the old 273 grooved shafts, which I think are be facing down. The spring is pushing the rocker up into the shaft so the oil film needs to be supplied from to the bottom of the shaft.
 
If the grooves are for oil distribution I would think that they would go on the load side, same as the old 273 grooved shafts, which I think are be facing down. The spring is pushing the rocker up into the shaft so the oil film needs to be supplied from to the bottom of the shaft.
Makes sense, thank you!
 
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