65 Barracuda Brake Distribution Block Woes

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Taebombo

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Hello!
I am working on my 65 Barracuda, lovingly named Tina. I have put way too much time and effort into her to keep hitting the same problem over and over again. She is far from roadworthy, but without brakes she isn't moving an inch.

This car is a 10" drum/drum setup, iirc. I have put almost everything new from the master back, except for the distribution blocks on the rear axle and the frame at the front. The one on the rear never had an issue, except I hadn't fully tightened a line into it so it leaked until I tightened the line. The block has 3 outs, 1 in. Two front lines and one headed to the rear splitter.
20200803_124336.jpg

The front block I cannot get to stop leaking. New lines, they threaded in perfect. However, I am getting leaks from the top of the brake line fittings. At first it was only the line coming off of the master. I tightened it as well as I could (it's an insanely small space), and then the passenger line started to leak. I tightened that, no more leaks. Then the line coming from the master started to leak AGAIN. I have tried and tried to get the line to stop. I backed it all the way off, tried to thread it back in, still leaking. I have been told to not use thread tape, as it will have some kind of effect if it gets into the fluid.
I am looking for either a replacement or a remedy. Looking for a new replacement has been a nightmare. All of the "replacements" have not been right and possibly for disc/drum. I am so lost on why I can find pre-bent lines that lined up perfectly, but not the block itself.

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
Are you lines stainless ? I have found some SS lines need to be really tight or use washers to seal. If regular lines check the flares and make sure they are centered and not cracked

47B5DC33-7C13-4AEF-A768-56CAF93AD848.png
 
Are you lines stainless ? I have found some SS lines need to be really tight or use washers to seal. If regular lines check the flares and make sure they are centered and not cracked

View attachment 1715572510
Honestly, I do not remember if they are SS... I am leaning more towards not. I've taken the lines off, checked over them, everything seems as it should.
Are those washers meant for only SS lines?
 
I would think they would work fine on steel lines. I personally have SS lines and didn’t need them just a known option.
 
The seal is made between the flare on the tube and the tapered seat in the block. No teflon tape or sealer here! You can try removing the leaking tubes and inspect them for defects in the sesl area. Also, the seats must be good. Try using a magnifying glass if needed. You can use fine sandpaper to dress the flare surface lightly.

What usually works for me is: tighten the fitting, loosen. Tighten again a little more past the first location, loosen again. Repeat this several times. Similar to hand lapping valves. I do this on all my new connections and it seems to work pretty well.

But the washers mentioned in post #2 could work if you still don't have any luck.

But it sounds and looks like you are not updating to a dual master cylinder. If ANY of your lines spring a leak, you could have no brakes. I used a dual MC for a 67 a body when I redid my 64 brakes.
 
First make sure block receivers are clean. Contamination does not seal well.
If you are not using flare wrench, do that, and use another wrench to hold back on block. Align wenches so they can be squeezed together with one hand, best way to get them tight. You may have to unmount block to get hold back wrench in.
 
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