Should I Run A Carb Spacer?!

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Be prepared to retune the carburetor when installing a spacer. pump shot , idle mixture and jetting can be an issue.
 
I was just wondering if it was something like below.
No worries!
View attachment 1715580253 View attachment 1715580254

no-this is before Iput the victor intake on it , this was a torquer 2 , the throttle body is up in the scoop now , and the new air seal doesnt look this good .

IMG_0474 (1).JPG
 
I gambled and bought a 1/2" spacer with a stud kit

Installed quick and time will tell

Need to figure out now what kind of air cleaner assembly to run...........not much room at all to the hood

Drop filter base likely
 
Absolutely, every carburetor running modern street fuel should have a spacer. I suggest a wooden one. Stay away from aluminum ones. Aluminum is a great conductor of heat. That’s what you don’t want. Wood absorbs heat the best, without transfer. Go thick as you possibly can, as long as you have hood clearance to shut hood. It’s also very wise to recirculate the fuel back to your tank via a special fuel filter that allows you to recirculate the fuel and bleed off boiling fuel pressure like this one. If you do those 2 things your car will restart a lot easier after shutting it off, have more power and better fuel mileage on warm to hot days. It will flat out run a lot better on warm days. Today’s gasoline boils at a much lower temperature than non ethanol gas. Boiling causes a lot of problems. These 2 suggested remedies cures that issue. Mopar A Body - Plymouth Duster / Dodge Dart 1968 - 1976 -Anti Vapor Lock Filter | eBay
 
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A spacer will
A spacer CAN make power, IF it happens to be the right one on the right combo. I have heard of a $20 spacer making 15-20hp. BUT..... how many were tried, and how many purchased, and how many dyno pulls did it take to find that power?
A spacer makes power solely based on fuel is no longer boiling over into your intake and the gasoline is burning more efficiently. A statement that it makes more power is partially false, but true. It only makes more power in comparison to not using one. Simply, because the gas is no longer boiling. It cools the fuel in the carburetor float bowl by simply acting as an insulator of heat. The fuel bowl is cooler, therefore the gasoline is not boiling in comparison to not using a spacer.
 
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A spacer will

A spacer makes power solely based on fuel is no longer boiling over into your intake and the gasoline is burning more efficiently. A statement that it makes more power is partially false, but true. It only makes more power in comparison to not using one. Simply, because the gas is no longer boiling. It cools the fuel in the carburetor float bowl by simply acting as an insulator of heat. The fuel bowl is cooler, therefore the gasoline is not boiling in comparison to not using a spacer.

Not entirely true , they increase the size of the plenum also , I think I really need a bigger plenum on my 505 , but the throttle body is way up in the scoop now , would also have to go to a longer cable and rework the linkage , ''again.''
 
Not entirely true , they increase the size of the plenum also
True. In a case between the 3 basic type of spacers, a lot depends on what the engine wants. Generally speaking one could point to this type of spacer on that type of manifold and be correct most of the time but not all of the time. It truly is a trial and error thing.

Running a dual plane seems to like a open or tapered spacer best. That doesn’t mean a 4 hole would not be advantageous. How thick a spacer needs to be, to be a good to a great addition is also a trial and error issue. More is t always better. This whole thing is very combination dependent.

The problem behind this whole discussion is the serious lack of room under the hood. A drop base is already needed and a spacer just kills the deal.

The choice is a spacer under the carb and choke off air flow or no spacer and get as much air flow into the carb as possible. Which is a space (above the carb) challenge under challenge right now. To get and use the ideal set up will require a hole in the hood.
 
True. In a case between the 3 basic type of spacers, a lot depends on what the engine wants. Generally speaking one could point to this type of spacer on that type of manifold and be correct most of the time but not all of the time. It truly is a trial and error thing.

Running a dual plane seems to like a open or tapered spacer best. That doesn’t mean a 4 hole would not be advantageous. How thick a spacer needs to be, to be a good to a great addition is also a trial and error issue. More is t always better. This whole thing is very combination dependent.

The problem behind this whole discussion is the serious lack of room under the hood. A drop base is already needed and a spacer just kills the deal.

The choice is a spacer under the carb and choke off air flow or no spacer and get as much air flow into the carb as possible. Which is a space (above the carb) challenge under challenge right now. To get and use the ideal set up will require a hole in the hood.

I have used a drop base and about every configuration I can think off , down to building my own now , mostly due to the fuel in and out on my 1200 cfm throttle body , gas in one end and out at the other , special hump heli arced in for throttle linkage , sealed to the hood , a real trick when the throttle body is up in the scoop .--filter is another problem, still goofing w/ that .
I got diff filter configurations all over the place !
 
My combo is Edelbrock LD4B intake, Edelbrock 1406 carburetor, Lokar throttle & "kick down" cables. I use the following spacer:

DSCN5532 Carb Spacer.JPG
 
That’s a heat insulation gasket. It’ll stop fuel percolating.
HIGHLY RECOMMEND!
If it fits under the hood....
 
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