Percolation? Heat soak? Don't drive during summer??

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j par said:
If Tony set the timing you're good to go. I was suspicious of that but now I'm not..
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Yes he set it up for me, adjusted my carb and suggested parts to use when doing the cam/lifters, painting/ cleaning the heads and pistons. He also helped me put the engine back togetber and helped me rebuild the transmission. One of the nicest guys to help me, and I'm super grateful he offered. I just feel bad I've been so busy where I haven't been able to go and help him. He has a cuda that needs put together.

I try not to say names, because I dont want anyone thinking or saying he did something wrong because he didn't and has nothing to do with my car "problems." :thumbsup:
 
Johnny Dart said:
You are so right, I have no idea what I was thinking. I wouldn't be caught dead in this stock garbage. :rolleyes:

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Johnny Dart said:
Haha....Your kinda Cute. :rolleyes:
Can you imagine the laugh you would get if you pulled up to the ice cream parlor in this ? That would be horrifying !!!

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You're right, I'd drive the **** out of those cars. I have to go change my shorts after looking at them :rofl:

Only problem is those are gts cars, my car is originally a /6 car or 318 (its a "custom") so my car wouldn't be nearly that cool.

You're also correct that I just want to go get some ice cream, slurpees, and donuts with the car. My kids love riding in the purple car.

The last picture with the carseat is when the backseat tore... oops.. it was worth it though, its just a seat, they all need new cushions and sest covers anyways. The covers are in great condition (besides the 1 tear) but they are old and dry. Ive been trying to recondition them as much as I can though.

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DentalDart said:
Yes he set it up for me, adjusted my carb and suggested parts to use when doing the cam/lifters, painting/ cleaning the heads and pistons. He also helped me put the engine back togetber and helped me rebuild the transmission. One of the nicest guys to help me, and I'm super grateful he offered. I just feel bad I've been so busy where I haven't been able to go and help him. He has a cuda that needs put together.

I try not to say names, because I dont want anyone thinking or saying he did something wrong because he didn't and has nothing to do with my car "problems." :thumbsup:
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I try not to name-drop members who helped me or who I've helped either.
 
yes on , todays fuel wows with carbs , i had to block off that heat transfor ports between the heads , and isolate the carb from the rising heat to the carb , by a stack of gasket then heat plate alum one and repeat this a few times to keep it from boiling the fuel in the bowls . my cam has enough overlap it cooks the paint off the primery tubes .
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So I bought some more stuff... thermostat, coolant, pupe plug, fuel pressure guage... oh and some silver spray paint because the other stuff was coming off super easily...

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So... good news and bad news... maybe bad news???

I just drove the car for about 30-35 minutes, after letting it warm up for 5-10 minutes (it usually dies before then)... The car didn't die, thats good news right?

Most of the driving was stop and go, also pretty slow around the neighborhood and then up and down the street in front of the neighborhood, only romped on the gas a couple of times. The car stayed around 205-208* which I dont like. When I parked it and let it idle before shutting it off the car started getting up there in temp.

Here is a picture of the local weather and the mechanical guage that is hooked up to my intake manifold. (Maybe it gets a little radiation heat from that too?) My guage in the dash wasn't to bad, but some people say thats not accurate.

Also my fuel pressure guage picture and a picture of the new fuel filter. Its just the spectre one while waiting for the wix to come in... the fuel pressure guage read right about 6.7-6.8 psi before driving around, then at 5 psi when i stopped to check it while driving around...

The carb, fuel line and everything is much hotter today after driving it than it was yesterday but the car didn't give me any problems at all...

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I'd check the radiator for exhaust residue, could be a crack in the head or gasket problem
 
I had this very problem with the Edelbrock on my car. The intake has the heat crossover directly under the center of the carburetor. I could never get it to stop boiling that Eddy carb, even with a 1" spacer. Someone told me to put a Holley on the car and I would never have that problem again. So I put a Holley on the car, and I have never had that problem again.
 
1969VADart said:
I had this very problem with the Edelbrock on my car. The intake has the heat crossover directly under the center of the carburetor. I could never get it to stop boiling that Eddy carb, even with a 1" spacer. Someone told me to put a Holley on the car and I would never have that problem again. So I put a Holley on the car, and I have never had that problem again.
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Dam, its a wonder any of these cars ever ran from the factory.

On top of that, this poster has an Air Gap. No heat crossover.

Its got to be the Edelbrock. :rolleyes:
 
Johnny Dart said:
Dam, its a wonder any of these cars ever ran from the factory.

On top of that, this poster has an Air Gap. No heat crossover.

Its got to be the Edelbrock. :rolleyes:
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They weren’t using THIS fuel. It IS an issue. Maybe not in the OP’s case but it IS a problem.
 
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1969VADart said:
I had this very problem with the Edelbrock on my car. The intake has the heat crossover directly under the center of the carburetor. I could never get it to stop boiling that Eddy carb, even with a 1" spacer. Someone told me to put a Holley on the car and I would never have that problem again. So I put a Holley on the car, and I have never had that problem again.
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You’re going to be verbally beat down for that comment.
 
DentalDart said:
So... good news and bad news... maybe bad news???

I just drove the car for about 30-35 minutes, after letting it warm up for 5-10 minutes (it usually dies before then)... The car didn't die, thats good news right?

Most of the driving was stop and go, also pretty slow around the neighborhood and then up and down the street in front of the neighborhood, only romped on the gas a couple of times. The car stayed around 205-208* which I dont like. When I parked it and let it idle before shutting it off the car started getting up there in temp.

Here is a picture of the local weather and the mechanical guage that is hooked up to my intake manifold. (Maybe it gets a little radiation heat from that too?) My guage in the dash wasn't to bad, but some people say thats not accurate.

Also my fuel pressure guage picture and a picture of the new fuel filter. Its just the spectre one while waiting for the wix to come in... the fuel pressure guage read right about 6.7-6.8 psi before driving around, then at 5 psi when i stopped to check it while driving around...

The carb, fuel line and everything is much hotter today after driving it than it was yesterday but the car didn't give me any problems at all...

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Is it all possible the water temp gauge is bad or reading wrong? Maybe the sensor is bad it placed wrong?
 
Since the radiator clutch and fan are all new here is where I would start, I'd check all the hoses make sure none of them are kinked or collapsed. Check the coolant level, bypass the heater core maybe its clogged or restricted in some way. Check the thermostat make sure its operating properly. I had one that had I had rigged up with an improper hose and it was was kinda on wonky, when it would get warm I guess it was in such a bind in would collapse and I would have temp problems I replaced all the hoses with the flexible hose and it solved it. That was in a slant six. Ita worth a look see! The heater core is a good possibility too.
 
That temp isn't bad, IMO.

The next thing is: running that same intake, I had a similar result. Add on temp sensor would read over 205, factory gauge read in the middle. Here's where it gets strange: my IR temp gun would consistently read 195 (thermostat temp) all over the manifold. I could never find anything hotter than 195. My only guess is that there must have been a small pocket of air I couldn't get out..

When I went to my efi system, it was similar. Originally I did not have the right pipe thread adapter to install the temp sensor in the manifold, so I just laid the sensor in the valley of the intake. It worked great, in fact. Always read a max of 195. As soon as I put it in the intake it would match my autometer gauge at 204-210 depending on conditions :BangHead:

Like I said, the only explanation I could conure was an air pocket, maybe. I did swap ports too, didn't change the behavior.
Could be that there was a stream of hotter water coming from the heads that wasn't necessarily the same as surrounding coolant? Hard to say, but that was my experience.

I've since swapped to a Victor 340 and the operating temps are still 195-205 (195 stat) but I haven't rechecked with the IR gun yet. Wish my thermal cam had a direct temp readout (only shows heat relative other surfaces).
 
Phreakish said:
That temp isn't bad, IMO.

The next thing is: running that same intake, I had a similar result. Add on temp sensor would read over 205, factory gauge read in the middle. Here's where it gets strange: my IR temp gun would consistently read 195 (thermostat temp) all over the manifold. I could never find anything hotter than 195. My only guess is that there must have been a small pocket of air I couldn't get out..

When I went to my efi system, it was similar. Originally I did not have the right pipe thread adapter to install the temp sensor in the manifold, so I just laid the sensor in the valley of the intake. It worked great, in fact. Always read a max of 195. As soon as I put it in the intake it would match my autometer gauge at 204-210 depending on conditions :BangHead:

Like I said, the only explanation I could conure was an air pocket, maybe. I did swap ports too, didn't change the behavior.
Could be that there was a stream of hotter water coming from the heads that wasn't necessarily the same as surrounding coolant? Hard to say, but that was my experience.

I've since swapped to a Victor 340 and the operating temps are still 195-205 (195 stat) but I haven't rechecked with the IR gun yet. Wish my thermal cam had a direct temp readout (only shows heat relative other surfaces).
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I dont have a temp gun, almost bought one once but ended up not. I don't think the car was overly hot while driving but I'd like it to be down closer to 190-195 since that's what other people say they run at. I guess that's the good Temps :)
 
Phreakish said:
That temp isn't bad, IMO.

The next thing is: running that same intake, I had a similar result. Add on temp sensor would read over 205, factory gauge read in the middle. Here's where it gets strange: my IR temp gun would consistently read 195 (thermostat temp) all over the manifold. I could never find anything hotter than 195. My only guess is that there must have been a small pocket of air I couldn't get out..

When I went to my efi system, it was similar. Originally I did not have the right pipe thread adapter to install the temp sensor in the manifold, so I just laid the sensor in the valley of the intake. It worked great, in fact. Always read a max of 195. As soon as I put it in the intake it would match my autometer gauge at 204-210 depending on conditions :BangHead:

Like I said, the only explanation I could conure was an air pocket, maybe. I did swap ports too, didn't change the behavior.
Could be that there was a stream of hotter water coming from the heads that wasn't necessarily the same as surrounding coolant? Hard to say, but that was my experience.

I've since swapped to a Victor 340 and the operating temps are still 195-205 (195 stat) but I haven't rechecked with the IR gun yet. Wish my thermal cam had a direct temp readout (only shows heat relative other surfaces).
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I kinda suspect that too. Its possible the sensor is in a bad spot and getting heat from somewhere besides the water. Hey I'm glad we could finally agree on something!! Haha sorry I got a little irritated earlier. I was at work and was having a bad day. No hard feelings!?
 
dartfreak75 said:
Since the radiator clutch and fan are all new here is where I would start, I'd check all the hoses make sure none of them are kinked or collapsed. Check the coolant level, bypass the heater core maybe its clogged or restricted in some way. Check the thermostat make sure its operating properly. I had one that had I had rigged up with an improper hose and it was was kinda on wonky, when it would get warm I guess it was in such a bind in would collapse and I would have temp problems I replaced all the hoses with the flexible hose and it solved it. That was in a slant six. Ita worth a look see! The heater core is a good possibility too.
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Yea i have no clue about the heater core or if it works... want to know a secret??? I dont even know where it is lol. I'm assuming behind the dash, and that dash looks good where it is haha.
The hoses are all new (replaced with everything else), except for 1, ill replace it just to be safe, and ill put in this 180 thermostat.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Is it all possible the water temp gauge is bad or reading wrong? Maybe the sensor is bad it placed wrong?
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Idk the temp guage is brand new, but is is a cheap one. Its hooked up in my intake manifold on the opposite side from the factory sensor.
 
fishmens67 said:
I'd check the radiator for exhaust residue, could be a crack in the head or gasket problem
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Check radiator for exhaust residue? I don't understand.

The heads were just cleaned, and reinstalled when I did the cam, same with the gaskets.
 
69_340_GTS said:
What's wrong with 205°F under those conditions?
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Idk is that not to high, most guys that have good systems say "I never get over 195 not even if Satan himself is in the passenger seat or im driving through hell..." well maybe not those exact words lol.
 
man this thread is getting sideways

Doc, when you parked the car a month or so ago you said the temp was only showing around 185 when it died on the street - the 200+ is new - it seems you went and bought some new parts - one at least you know your gonna throw away - I guess a little windfall came your way. You have got some good things to check without spending any money, its gonna be hard now to go back through the thread and find the things but it will be best in the long run, especially on the wallet

it appears you found the source of the weird coil problem - a new wire from coil to tach is easy - still not needed to be done while looking for the original issue (that seems to be getting lost in the thread to)

next I would follow jpars suggestion of a little fuel in the carb if it stops again

if you just change a few parts and your problem doesn't go away or you end up with a new issue - whats your plan then?

try the FREE suggestions one at a time - see what changes or doesn't change - then report back.

Its tough when you have any issue that cant be quickly figured out and then have a thread like this that sends you in many directions - write down the suggestions from this thread, turn the computer off, take the kiddos for a slurpee and check back in in a couple of days

From your comments about funk in your block - if you had muck in the holes you could see I would be certain that your block is mucked up pretty bad - when I knocked all the freeze plugs out of my block the muck was all the way across that lower area almost to the top of the freeze plug opening, I spent hours with compressed air, a vacuum, bottle brushes and rags, Im sure its still somewhat dirty but I do know that theres at least a small bucket full of crap that was pulled out
 
DentalDart said:
Idk the temp guage is brand new, but is is a cheap one. Its hooked up in my intake manifold on the opposite side from the factory sensor.
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I plan on getting one of those cheaper ones for my break in so I cam monitor everything from outside. Maybe try putting it in the factory spot see if it makes a difference?
 
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