Parking Brake Cable Removal

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dusted72

dusted72

Thanks Hemiroid!!!!
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dusted72 submitted a new Article:

Parking brake cable removal

I just thought this might help some else out.

First you have to unhook all the cables under the driver side floor board, then what I did was use a pair of needle nose pliers and a slid them over the cable where it comes though the floor brace and hit it with a rubber hammer to get the cable back through. Sorry no pics of that part.

Then I went under the dash and removed the return spring from the pin.

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Then I removed the little cotter pin from the same pin that you had removed the spring from. Then you remove that pin also. After that I removed the bracket that held the cable in place, freeing the cable from the parking brake handle.

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Once I had freed the cable inside I went back to the engine bay and pushed in the 3 little prongs that held the cable on the firewall and pushed the cable back inside the car. Once that was done I went back under the dash and pulled the cable the rest of the way through the firewall and that is all. I know it's not much but I know I had no clue until I crawled under the dash and started to unhook stuff. I hope it helps someone.

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All done with my instal.. Was not easy fishing the main compartment cable down through the frame rail. But, It's all done.
 
Keep in mind the firewall grommet can be saved. Yes it can! Or buy a new one for $22.
Here's how you save it;
After removing the cable from the cross member under the car, cut the old cable with a grinder, removing the end fitting, so it would slide through the grommet easily. Remove the old cable. With the cable out, remove the grommet from the firewall by pushing it from the interior side out of the firewall. Now you need to place the old grommet over the new cable without tearing it. Using 3/8 drive sockets, take a 3/8 deep socket, grease the grommet and begin to feed it through the grommet, follow that socket with a 7/16 socket then follow that with a 1/2 inch socket. Your 3/8 socket may be tapered and you can skip the 7/16 and go directly to the 1/2". You see how you are slowly stretching the grommet and every socket in a line has to be tight to one another or it will spit it out on you. Now follow the 1/2 inch deep socket with a 1 inch piece 1/2 inch tube. A copper, or pex, water line works or a shock absorber sleeve is the same size. Why use the pipe? Because the end of the brake cable has to fit flush and will not sit flush into the square drive of sockets. Follow the 1/2 inch deep socket with the pipe, then cable through the grommet and .....damn! You've slipped that cable through the grommet without a tear. Good luck
 
Lol, Just did mine. A little tighter up there with it being a manual trans. Getting that bolt out with the clutch pedal bracket right there was a PITA! Poking the clevis pin through was a little tricky as well. I've confirmed to myself I'm definitely no contortionist.
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Unfortunately the article glosses over removing the cable at the crossmember. I've tried a 1/2 box end but that doesn't seem to be working (or I'm just doing it wrong).

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