So here we start....150$ 318 LA short block

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ValerianMagnum

ValerianMagnum

the little car that could
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So i decided to buy my engine for my cuda , 1971 cuda , 4 speed trans , 3.23 rear or more minimum...the engine is a late 71 casting and its very nice inside...got the crank / rods and a set of 30 over 318 pistons ifi wanted to oversize , its basicaly a short block , clean solid one...but new to La and always had 5.9 magnums , i want a low budget engine dont mind if it has 300 hp but i want a high rpm 6000 screamer and a fun reliable engine...not a turd that cost me 5-6k and overtheats in 10 mins traffic.....were do i start from here...a 100$ 318 short block...to replace my missing 340 that i never had with the car. Thank you guys
 
Sounds like a good foundation. 300 hp is very achievable and very drivable, and you'll be around 6k rpm's shifting. I would focus on the heads, cam, intake and carb. I don't think you'd have to overbore to achieve your goals. You'll get a 101 opinions on what cam/heads/carb. Should be a fun thread to read :)
 
318willrun said:
Sounds like a good foundation. 300 hp is very achievable and very drivable, and you'll be around 6k rpm's shifting. I would focus on the heads, cam, intake and carb. I don't think you'd have to overbore to achieve your goals. You'll get a 101 opinions on what cam/heads/carb. Should be a fun thread to read :)
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One thing I would add is get the compression up. Wiseco pistons, deck the block or something. The Duster has Wiseco (~9.5:1) pistons, Toth ported heads, Performer manifold, 650 Edelbrock, and the wrong Comp cam. Now that I know more about the math of building an engine there really is not the right cam out there for a 318 for what I want out of it. I would like to have Ken at Oregon Cams grind me one to my specs someday (that will never come). Even so it makes a big difference over the stock 318 Coronet I built for me before the Duster.
 
Thx ! I love all your videos and learn a lot with them..i just a reliable and cheap little engine , but dont know were to start sincerely
 
ValerianMagnum said:
Thx ! I love all your videos and learn a lot with them..i just a reliable and cheap little engine , but dont know were to start sincerely
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  • Cam - I'd look for a cam around 212 - 216 duration @ 050 intake/ 216-224 exhaust and somewhere between .450 -.480 lift. 110 - 112 centerline. Of course, valve springs to match
  • Heads - you can work with the 318 heads or 360 heads cut .040. and fel pro 1008 head gaskets if staying with stock 318 pistons
  • Intake - I'd run a good dual plane intake. Action Plus, Factory cast, Stealth, Speedmaster air gap, etc
  • I'd run a 650 Double Pumper.
  • Of course, headers and a nice 2.5" dual exhaust.
 
ValerianMagnum said:
How much real world hp & torque can i reach with that ? By curiosity
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I'm really not super at spitting out HP/TQ numbers. I can tell you with the 4 speed, leaving the line at 3500 rpms and shifting between 5500 - 6000 rpms it should be a fun ride and give you what you are looking for in performance.
 
Upgrade your rod bolts....I had 2 rod bolt issues on LA's, one 318 and a 340. Both stock. Probably 1 too many torques.
 
ValerianMagnum said:
So i decided to buy my engine for my cuda , 1971 cuda , 4 speed trans , 3.23 rear or more minimum...the engine is a late 71 casting and its very nice inside...got the crank / rods and a set of 30 over 318 pistons ifi wanted to oversize , its basicaly a short block , clean solid one...but new to La and always had 5.9 magnums , i want a low budget engine dont mind if it has 300 hp but i want a high rpm 6000 screamer and a fun reliable engine...not a turd that cost me 5-6k and overtheats in 10 mins traffic.....were do i start from here...a 100$ 318 short block...to replace my missing 340 that i never had with the car. Thank you guys
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6K plus RPM in a 318. Then here's my suggestion. Over cam it with a fairly stout solid lifter cam and run Rhoads V-MAX lifters on it with the direct oiling groove. Those lifters are totally badass and will make that beeotch scream. If you can find the old MP .528 solid, that would make a fantastic choice.

Read about them. Get the ones with the super groove lube option. I know, it says "racing applications only" regarding use on solid cams but they'll work fine. Especially with the oiling groove skeetin oil all over the lobes. lol

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RustyRatRod said:
6K plus RPM in a 318. Then here's my suggestion. Over cam it with a fairly stout solid lifter cam and run Rhoads V-MAX lifters on it with the direct oiling groove. Those lifters are totally badass and will make that beeotch scream. If you can find the old MP .528 solid, that would make a fantastic choice.

Read about them. Get the ones with the super groove lube option. I know, it says "racing applications only" regarding use on solid cams but they'll work fine. Especially with the oiling groove skeetin oil all over the lobes. lol

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Can i use a hyd flat tappet with these lifters ? Or i need tongo roller ?
 
ValerianMagnum said:
Yes...but suggest me one , ahahahah im on a very limited budget , so i want , power , high rpms and reliability , not spending too much $$$$
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You're gonna have to spend "somewhere" to get 6K plus RPM. That's beyond the limit of a standard type hydraulic lifter. It's also going to require adjustable rockers to do it on a regular basis and hold up.
 
273 rockers and a solid cam is my only way? Never had a solid engine before....maintenance and all , always had the roller engines ( carburated magnums )
 
ValerianMagnum said:
Yes...but suggest me one , ahahahah im on a very limited budget , so i want , power , high rpms and reliability , not spending too much $$$$
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Ah, yes we are in the same boat. However, the engine is not something you want to build "cheaply". you can build one for cheap per say; re using the old rods but with really good ARP bolts, porting the old iron heads instead of buying aluminum ones, stuff like that. I am already saving for a "cheap" build up on a 440 and I am planning on saving up at least $2300 just because if i do it cheaply, and skimp on the important things, the money I saved on cutting corners will just go into another engine 4 month later. Build it right, and build it once.
 
ValerianMagnum said:
273 rockers and a solid cam is my only way? Never had a solid engine before....maintenance and all , always had the roller engines ( carburated magnums )
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no. Tons of small blocks with hydraulic cams shifting at 6+. I shifted my old 340 at 6k with a MP .474/280 cam hyd cam. Maybe take a gander at Isky cams, Crower cams, Crane cams, there are some nice choices. I'd browse and nose around. You might even venture and call Oregon Cam Grinders and tell them you want torque around 1800 rpm's but a shift between 5800-6000 rpms. Just nose around some... Cam is very important in a 318 when daily driving but wanting power up top. Especially in a E body with 3.23's. Your 4 speed will help a ton.
 
ValerianMagnum said:
273 rockers and a solid cam is my only way? Never had a solid engine before....maintenance and all , always had the roller engines ( carburated magnums )
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No. Not the only way, but probably the easiest. No maintenance as long as you prepare the rockers right. I don't know why the first thing people throw up is maintenance when someone brings up solid cams. You can probably go five years with no valve adjustments if you prepare the rockers right. Besides, to get the most out of an HP hydraulic grind, you need adjustable rockers anyway.
 
318willrun said:
no. Tons of small blocks with hydraulic cams shifting at 6+. I shifted my old 340 at 6k with a MP .474/280 cam hyd cam. Maybe take a gander at Isky cams, Crower cams, Crane cams, there are some nice choices. I'd browse and nose around. You might even venture and call Oregon Cam Grinders and tell them you want torque around 1800 rpm's but a shift between 5800-6000 rpms. Just nose around some... Cam is very important in a 318 when daily driving but wanting power up top. Especially in a E body with 3.23's. Your 4 speed will help a ton.
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Yeah but you still need at least an anti pump lifter which requires adjustable rockers to run zero or a very tight lash, so why not go solid and get even more benefit? A standard hydraulic lifter will not hold up to sustained or frequent revs to and past 6K without issues.

Or to put it another way that cannot be argued with, "I" am not going to recommend it. "YALL" can run whatever the hell you want. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah but you still need at least an anti pump lifter which requires adjustable rockers to run zero or a very tight lash, so why not go solid and get even more benefit? A standard hydraulic lifter will not hold up to sustained or frequent revs to and past 6K without issues.

Or to put it another way that cannot be argued with, "I" am not going to recommend it. "YALL" can run whatever the hell you want. lol
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"NEED" anti pump up lifter??? Come on, RRR, you've been around the block before!! LOL. :poke: I used factory valve train, yes stamped steel rockers, pushrods, and a normal hyd lifter with a hyd flat tappet cam and hit 7k more than once in my 340. I shifted it at 6k because it ran the best ET there. That engine never had valve train/cam failure after several years. Had it in a Demon, a Dart Sport, D100, and lastly a Duster. Now, your recommendations are good ones, but I don't know if "need" is in the word in order... :D
 
318willrun said:
"NEED" anti pump up lifter??? Come on, RRR, you've been around the block before!! LOL. :poke: I used factory valve train, yes stamped steel rockers, pushrods, and a normal hyd lifter with a hyd flat tappet cam and hit 7k more than once in my 340. I shifted it at 6k because it ran the best ET there. That engine never had valve train/cam failure after several years. Had it in a Demon, a Dart Sport, D100, and lastly a Duster. Now, your recommendations are good ones, but I don't know if "need" is in the word in order... :D
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Again, you do what you want. I'm not gonna recommend it. Maybe with lifters of yesteryear. Not some of the **** we have today.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Again, you do what you want. I'm not gonna recommend it. Maybe with lifters of yesteryear. Not some of the **** we have today.
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I'm looking at a Crower cam and thinking hard on the Micro Trol lifters. My 360 in my Duster is going to get a bump
 
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