[Found!] Help Me With My Driveshaft!

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ChrisRomello

ChrisRomello

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I need the parts to make a proper driveshaft for my ‘65 Valiant so i thought i might as well post here. I put a 360 in the car with a 904 out of a 73 charger and i also did a Ford 8.8 swap for the axle. My question is: Can i convert my original drive shaft to work with my current set up? As far as I know the shaft I have should be the correct length, i just need to swap out the ends. Tell me what you think and if anyone has the parts I would need I would appreciate it! Here are some pics of what I’m working with:
Trans output shaft:
17ABD845-7674-49C6-8200-7205ADB767BA.jpeg

Axle end
7699D5FA-542E-4631-A34F-EDCAFE4E49C8.jpeg

Trans end
27304C0C-BA1B-48C4-B61B-092734C65BC3.jpeg

Axle flange
9F611A77-9225-49E6-ACE9-B85E3D07BB9E.jpeg
 
I can help I am doing the same thing you will have to give me a minute to come up with some part numbers tho. For the transmission you just need a standard 904 yolk they are all the same. Im not sure what the u joint size is on that end. Give me a min and I will find the part numbers you need for the 8.8 end. By the way you will probably have to shorten the drive shaft. Brb
 
Driveshaft Flange Yoke 1310 Series 2-2-1379
Precision Joints 319 Universal Joint
Genuine OEM Ford Drive Shaft Rear Coupling Bolt N800594S100 (Pack of 4)

Screenshot_20210320-220717_eBay.jpg


Screenshot_20210320-220640_eBay.jpg


Screenshot_20210320-220548_eBay.jpg
 
George Jets said:
OK, you know best on the 8.8 dartfreak.

Probably the small 7260 u-joint for the front 904 slip yoke.
Click to expand...
There is two different sizes for the Flange Yoke(maybe more but 2 that i found) I went with the 1310 so with the conversion joint the one end fits the Chrysler driveshaft the other fits the 1310 Yoke. However I didn't think about it but do 65 driveshafts have a different joint size than later years?
 
Guessing that 65 used the 7260 small rear joint.

Screenshot_20210320-213520_Chrome.jpg


Would be nice to know what his previous engine was? If it was a 6 cyl then the drive shafts were a smaller diameter.

360 in there, would be good to have a V8 drive shaft diameter to go with the extra hp of the 360. Just a thought, don't want him twisting a driveshaft if he is getting on it.
 
George Jets said:
Guessing that 65 used the 7260 small rear joint.

View attachment 1715711136

Would be nice to know what his previous engine was? If it was a 6 cyl then the drive shafts were a smaller diameter.

360 in there, would be good to have a V8 drive shaft diameter to go with the extra hp of the 360. Just a thought, don't want him twisting a driveshaft if he is getting on it.
Click to expand...
Yes, it was originally a slant car, I’m ok with getting another driveshaft if it is absolutely necessary
 
George Jets said:
Guessing that 65 used the 7260 small rear joint.

View attachment 1715711136

Would be nice to know what his previous engine was? If it was a 6 cyl then the drive shafts were a smaller diameter.

360 in there, would be good to have a V8 drive shaft diameter to go with the extra hp of the 360. Just a thought, don't want him twisting a driveshaft if he is getting on it.
Click to expand...
If that's the case then what i said will work perfectly. Mine is a 7260 and the 319 u joint couples a 7260 with a 1310
 
ChrisRomello said:
Yes, it was originally a slant car, I’m ok with getting another driveshaft if it is absolutely necessary
Click to expand...
You shouldn't have to. Just use a 904 slip yoke and the parts i listed and check for the length it will work. I have to shorten mine 2 inches. Its (~was~) a slant six car 1975 year now its a 360 with a 904 and 8.8. The 8.8 case is longer than the 7.25 that's why its gonna have to be shortened. You can shorten it yourself if you can weld and keep it straight.
 
dartfreak75 said:
You shouldn't have to. Just use a 904 slip yoke and the parts i listed and check for the length it will work. I have to shorten mine 2 inches. Its (~was~) a slant six car 1975 year now its a 360 with a 904 and 8.8. The 8.8 case is longer than the 7.25 that's why its gonna have to be shortened. You can shorten it yourself if you can weld and keep it straight.
Click to expand...
Perfect, if I could narrow the axle and make it straight I should surly be able to do the shaft!
 
I bought all the parts for the swap on autoplicity.com. Most were spicer and super cheap. There was a posted list of parts here that I cross referenced and bought for my dakota 4speed swap. It’s basically like rockauto.
 
ChrisRomello said:
Perfect, if I could narrow the axle and make it straight I should surly be able to do the shaft!
Click to expand...
I don't recommend shortening a driveshaft without a lathe or without the ability to balance.
There is much more to it than a cut and weld job.
 
Cutting a shaft, shortening, and welding it back together on center, then balancing so no vibrations when you get done. More difficult than most would think.

After the pros weld them together on their lathes, they have to go back and heat shrink spots on the tube to take the bow out of length on them.

 
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