The driver window crank is stiff to turn. How is it recommended to clean & lube?
Window Regulator Sticking
- Thread starter Ricks70Duster340
- Start date
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Remove your window crank, arm rest and door card, grab a can of WD40 with the red straw stuck in the nozzle. Spray all the linkages all the rails and rail rollers, taking note if the rollers are missing or damaged. Roll the window up and down a few, repeat if needed... WD dries up quickly, I would suggest using a LITE grease on the rollers and regulator.
Mr. Sinister
Devastation Manager
Dicer is on a good path with the LITE grease but it if you also add a little motor oil to the slides and pivot points it will make it roll up and down like butter. If that doesn’t work you might have to look at the guide adjustments.
IIRC, factory shop manuals call for using Lubriplate.
Just like Frank's Hot Sauce, they use that sh*t on everything.
Just like Frank's Hot Sauce, they use that sh*t on everything.
which number? 105?
Recently I removed my window regulator to replace the front glide ( vent window to drivers glass) while it was out I cleaned the entire unit in a bath of paint thinner. BIG MISTAKE!!!!!
it got clean of years or collected dust and the old dried up grease BUT it also got the grease inside the tension spring and brake parts in the cup that the stem the window crank attaches to is mounted in.
(I am sure I'm not calling them the correct names but without the brake parts you would be able to roll the window down just by pushing down on the glass.)
After I bathed the regulator it made A LOT of noise going up and down. It is better now but still noise then the untouched pass side.
Long ago I had a 56 ford pickup and one window regulator was super stiff, so I drilled out the rivets and removed the cup with the spring and brake partes in it. Anyway I cleaned and lubed the parts up and it went up and down like butter, problem was I lubed the brake parts as well so now it would also push down from the outside.
Moral to the story keep solvents out of the cup and do not overly lubricate inside the cup.
I had to do A LOT of adjustments to get the glass to slide up and down easily after reinstall.
it got clean of years or collected dust and the old dried up grease BUT it also got the grease inside the tension spring and brake parts in the cup that the stem the window crank attaches to is mounted in.
(I am sure I'm not calling them the correct names but without the brake parts you would be able to roll the window down just by pushing down on the glass.)
After I bathed the regulator it made A LOT of noise going up and down. It is better now but still noise then the untouched pass side.
Long ago I had a 56 ford pickup and one window regulator was super stiff, so I drilled out the rivets and removed the cup with the spring and brake partes in it. Anyway I cleaned and lubed the parts up and it went up and down like butter, problem was I lubed the brake parts as well so now it would also push down from the outside.
Moral to the story keep solvents out of the cup and do not overly lubricate inside the cup.
I had to do A LOT of adjustments to get the glass to slide up and down easily after reinstall.
This is what the professional auto glass shops use
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005RNEH5O/?tag=fabo03-20
Works for the tracks on your power window cars and helps regulator life.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005RNEH5O/?tag=fabo03-20
Works for the tracks on your power window cars and helps regulator life.
Hey Dana, I did the same thing but haven't installed it again, door is stripped and I'm just about to start reassembling it. Suggestions ? I greased the roller and the teeth with mercury marine grade stuff.
Thanks
Thanks
Just to get a less than perfect crank and crank the crank all the way a few times to spread the grease.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
How old is the Budweiser? LOL. I wish I had a dollar for every old container of whatever I threw away over the years.
That's a "coolie", styrofoam sleeve. At least 30 years old.
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