Frozen rusted bolts... removal

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Try PB blaster on the intake nuts first, llet it soak for a few hours tighten slightly and work them out/in SLOWLY and go from there.
 
halifaxhops said:
Try PB blaster on the intake nuts first, llet it soak for a few hours tighten slightly and work them out/in SLOWLY and go from there.
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What hoppy says...PB... or Kroil...I've had good luck with Freeze Off too. If you can use a torch and get some heat on them with out hurting anything that's the sure fire way....assuming exhaust manifolds.
 
Penetrant oil or as stated heat. Go slow so you don't break the studs, they are notorious to break.
 
I found Kroil to be the best, living in Ohio there is a lot of rust here.
 
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In a pinch use kerosene and ATF at 1:1. Both very thin and creeps well. Apply and go to bed! try cracking them in the morning. The end studs seem to break the easiest. Nice thing about a slant is they are relatively easy to access if you do get one broken. My worst luck is end studs on LA heads.
 
True, if you have a tig welder.

However..
If one asks for help in regards to removing broken bolts/studs, I would not assume he has a tig welder.

Worst case if no tig is available..
Use a 90* air drill, extractor, tap to clean it up.
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Or if you can get a grip on it...torch the head around the bolt, shoot penitrant into it..use vice grips going back and forth as you back it out.
 
I am in Pa. trailer it here my son will get them out. Or take it to a weld shop near you familiar with this process. He takes them out with his fingers once free even if broken flush. Tig welding them and then blowing cold air on the stud or bolt loosens them right up. He usually tig welds nuts on them.

I always would drill and extract them until he showed me this method. I can't tell you how many he does every week. Every head that comes here usually needs a couple taken out. He can get in the tightest places where you can get a drill in. Don't use a torch if the head is on the motor. and we never heat aluminum to remove a stud or bolt.

You don't want to heat the head to expand the head. You want to heat the bolt then shrink it. Remember some studs go into the water jacket . Ruin the threads and good luck sealing the new stud. Our zip is 18038.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I am in Pa. trailer it here my son will get them out. Or take it to a weld shop near you familiar with this process. He takes them out with his fingers once free even if broken flush. Tig welding them and then blowing cold air on the stud or bolt loosens them right up. He usually tig welds nuts on them.

I always would drill and extract them until he showed me this method. I can't tell you how many he does every week. Every head that comes here usually needs a couple taken out. He can get in the tightest places where you can get a drill in. Don't use a torch if the head is on the motor. and we never heat aluminum to remove a stud or bolt.

You don't want to heat the head to expand the head. You want to heat the bolt then shrink it. Remember some studs go into the water jacket . Ruin the threads and good luck sealing the new stud. Our zip is 18038.
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If PB or Kroil dont help, try heating w a propane torch and melting bees wax on the fastener. Something about it creeps and penetrates like magic.
 
Propane torch never has been enough for me, takes too long and you end up heating more than the stud by the time the stud gets enough heat. Which defeats the purpose
 
I heat wit a torch then put bees wax near the bottom of the stud or bolt. It will wick to the bottom of the thread and screw out easy. Use candle was if no bees wax is available. May have a little fire but no big deal.
 
I recently bought a induction heater tool, can get into many tight places with it that I'm afraid to try with a torch (close quarters, tight spaces) heats quick
 
Lots of lube and lots of patience.

When I have a rusty project I start soaking the bolts a week ahead...
 
I have rattled studs with an air hammer while spraying water on them. Rust breaks up,runs out and stud comes out with fingers.
Done it lots.

die grind the nuts just til you see thread points and crack nut with a chisel. Off it comes.
The more of the stud or bolt you can leave out,the better your chances of winning.
 
Ive never TIG welded, have gotten busted bolts out with a MIG, by welding nut to stub.... but often even with MIG cranked way up cant get any weld penetration much of the time or it breaks right along the weld if I do..... sometimes takes multiple attempts per stud but usually I eventually win when I have to resort to that.
 
Heat makes stuff expand.
Cold makes stuff shrink.
Get an aerosol can of compressed air. The stuff they sell at Staples.
Flip it upside down, shoot it on the bolt. It comes out at sub zero temp. It should shrink it.
This is how we test thermostats on heat tracing in the months leading up to winter.
 
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