Starting to strip under hood of 71 Duster FY1 car has been on hold way too long...any tips to aid and assist in under hood refinish? Gonna install 1968 340/727 has 3.91's..leaving original old paint kinda grew on me ...hood was matched years ago...
Under hood prep....any suggestions?
- Thread starter Mtrhead
- Start date
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What is your goal for it?
Jeff
Jeff
When I painted my engine bay, it was of course stripped and naked otherwise like yours is now but what I did before anything spraying was done was use tape on the backside of all the holes. No interior overspray!
I used an epoxy primer and then the Butterscotch/Bahama Yellow single stage. It’s not great but it’s just fine for the “Drag Car” purpose of the car.
Just don’t go crazy on a single pass complete coat attempt for ether the primer or paint.
The emergency brake cable was wrapped in tape and the boarders of the hood and cowl.
Then everything was later installed.
I used an epoxy primer and then the Butterscotch/Bahama Yellow single stage. It’s not great but it’s just fine for the “Drag Car” purpose of the car.
Just don’t go crazy on a single pass complete coat attempt for ether the primer or paint.
The emergency brake cable was wrapped in tape and the boarders of the hood and cowl.
Then everything was later installed.
I'm watching this because I'm in the process of the same exact thing on a valiant
Used abrasive 3m wheel and brass wire wheels
Goal is street/strip cruiser..just live 13 .miles from track
I used aircraft stripper to soften the paint but that didn't really solve all of body works life's problems
New stripper
New stripper
I used a wire wheel. A very aggressive wheel n an angle grinder. I only used the air craft paint stripper and a metal paint scrapper in the right spots. It’s to labor intensive for the whole bay.
I see a quote without a reply …..
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AnywYs… my brat fingers are having problems obeying m brain…. LMAO been correcting al sorts of mistakes
Sorry…. Anyways…
THE TAPE I used was a lightly sticky masking tape. News paper is great for mass area masking.
I sprayed the car right where you see it on the side of the house. I kayes down some spare plywood and a couple of tarps.
I also waited for a very very light wind day with the lowest humidity.
Sorry…. Anyways…
THE TAPE I used was a lightly sticky masking tape. News paper is great for mass area masking.
I sprayed the car right where you see it on the side of the house. I kayes down some spare plywood and a couple of tarps.
I also waited for a very very light wind day with the lowest humidity.
Great ideas Rumble and yours looks amazing!! Maybe later might even lose the inner fenders like you and install rack&pinion steering....
I got 2 part epoxy primer and body color paint from an outfit called 66 Auto Color (as in Rt.66). For the finish color the can has a push in valve in the bottom. You shake it up and them hit the valve which releases the hardener, more shaking and spray it. I was painting the car Plum crazy and the color and the metallic content was dead on. I took the car to a professional resto shop for the paint on the exterior shell and you don't even notice the difference between the spray can stuff and the base coat/clear coat exterior paint. The finish paint is set up as single stage, so no clear coat to yellow over time with engine heat.
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Having done this twice, my best advice is make sure everything is thoroughly degreased.
Luckily I learned on a friend"s Torino first.
Luckily I learned on a friend"s Torino first.
I usually do a wipe down with Brake Kleen (I think that's how they spell it) just before the primer. It really gets the last film of stuff out and dries with no residue.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
I'd remove the speedometer cable, and take the parking brake cable loose inside and fold it around under the car. Take the rubber insulators for the upper shock mounts out too. Get some light gray epoxy primer to use as a first direct to metal coat. Have your Lemon Twist paint on hand then too. If you get really lucky and there's no sanding scratches left from the abrasive wheel, you can shoot the color right over the epoxy within the allotted top coating time frame of the epoxy....and not even have to sand the epoxy first. If there are scratches you need to fix with 2K primer, and some sanding, be careful hand sanding over the spot welds. Some may have little sharp nibs sticking up from when the weld was made.....and they will drag a hunk out of you fingers, right thru the sand paper. Don't ask me how I know! 
It's gonna look good when you're done.
It's gonna look good when you're done.
I use aluminum foil to mask anything I don't want painted. Affordable, and very easy to use.
IMO, Only of a roll cage is being installed!
Otherwise, the weight loss is minimal. The body will become less stiff.
Blast it with crushed glass not sand. We blast every car otherwise that rust will come through in the near future. Wire wheel and sanding does not remove the rust in the pits. Rust remover doesn't work either. Blast it.
How much do those inner fenders weigh, and does the removal change the cooling for the better or worse?
Mornin brother!
The fenders were approximately (guessing) less than 20lbs. Cooling should not be effected. I have not run the car yet. The wiring is in bad shape to the point of throwing in the towel (temporarily) until a new harness arrives. Or, I replace wire by wire.
At this time, a lot is on my plate delaying car time fun.
So it’ll be a little while.
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