OK I've had enough Kahr .40

-
gzig5 said:
It is a non-metallic lower, but if it can live with the stress a 45acp puts on it, it will go forever with a 9mm. Eliminating a polymer lower really restricts your choices in a small pistol for anything being made currently. They are much lighter than even an aluminum frame and probably last longer than aluminum due to the steel inserts the slide runs on in most cases. I am a pretty hardcore single action trigger snob, but I can live with the triggers on the Shield and the Canik that I picked up. These safe action triggers have come a long way.
Click to expand...
But what specific 45 are you talking about? The damn thing generating "threads" of plastic scraped off by the slide rails can NOT be good. I can do that just hand cycling it a few times, nothing like the impact and force of firing
 
67Dart273 said:
I'm also thinking "there's polymer and there's polymer". this Kahr frame, you can wiggle, squeeze, and deform the frame rails all over the map. **** with my old crippled fingers I CAN SQUEEZE the top of the rails and move them in 1/8--3/16!!!!!
Click to expand...

That's not good, none of mine flex like that. If you do shop around, and find one you like with a polymer frame, ask for them to take it apart and compare.
 
67Dart273 said:
But what specific 45 are you talking about? The damn thing generating "threads" of plastic scraped off by the slide rails can NOT be good. I can do that just hand cycling it a few times, nothing like the impact and force of firing
Click to expand...
S&W Shield in .45ACP.
If the slide is shaving plastic off the frame, it will do the same to an aluminum frame. On a steel frame gun, the heat treatment and material is going to determine which one wears, slide or frame. Bottom line is it is piss poor design, execution, or maintenance, that would allow the two parts to interface such that they can damage one another like that.
 
I don't know what kind of "poor maintenance" could cause that. Weapon was and is clean. It should not be "my job" to de-bur machine work. On a side not it is nearly impossible to cleanly remove such burrs from the plastic. Even a sharp (exacto) knife leaves a little "hangnail."
 
I wasn't being accusatory on the maintenance, just stating my interpretation of the potential causes for what you saw.
There are a lot of different options to look at in this category. I would suggest selecting a couple manufacturers that you trust that have stuff in your price range and pick. Test drive if you can, but analysis paralysis is easy to get stuck in.
 
67Dart273 said:
Among other "things" I have a Kahr CW40 so called sriker fired, acts like DA only, some sort of damn poor plastic frame.

I've had a number of various jams / misfires, the latest being the recent outing with some other board members.

EVERY time I've pulled it apart to clean it, the (plastic) frame has generated "threads" that are being peeled off by the slide. Not sure the cause, you cannot get into those slide grooves to 'feel' or dress them very handily

Other intense dislike is there is VERY poor clearance to get the recoil guide pin back in You must install the barrel, the spring, the pin, and compress the pin and "hook" it in the front of the barrrel lug. Almost impossible to do. The construction of the barrel bushing does not permit enough angle and interferes with the sides of the recoil spring

Anybody, suggestions, good "sure fire" tune up tricks? etc?

ALTERNATIVELY, a similar "acting" weapon that is still compact, still DA only AND ALL METAL. I will concede to a light alloy frame
Click to expand...
Well I don't have any tune up tricks, but I own three Kahrs, None of them .40, but will tell you my experiences with a PM9, P9 and P45. Went to Kahr after trying Kimber Ultra Carry , SIG P245 and Browning Hi Power 9mm.
Karhs are for me the most comfortable for all day carry. All three of my Kahrs perform flawlessly and are accurate.
The PM9 had the barrel replaced under warranty after less than 500 rounds. But years and hundreds of rounds later all is good.
You didn't say what ammo you are using, but you may have to try others, which in these times may be a problem because there ain't any ammo.
Anyway, Kahrs need to be broken in. I like to fire 500 rounds for break in. Don't be concerned with the plastic peeling off, just dress it off, the slide rides on steel insert imbedded in the frame.
I didn't start out to write a book, but will end by saying I like my Kahrs for concealed carry. The 9s carry comfortably in a Galco Classic Lite and the .45 in a UBG inside waistband.

IMG_20210930_174102298.jpg
 
67Dart273 said:
What I want is small lightweight and DA only, meaning, no safety if possible. That lets out 1911 or any other SA pistol I guess it doesn't have to be a .40, a 9 is ok

I still have the Browning BDM but it's too big and heavy

The Kahr would have been fine if it was reliable, but I've lost confidence in it
Click to expand...
I just bought Glock 48. Love it safety is in the trigger LOL. Basically same size as Glock 17&19 only narrower , fits my hand nice , conceals nicely.
 
LOL Hi Richard. If nothing else I AM getting a "list of ideas."
 
RustyRatRod said:
Sig Sauer and don't look back.
Click to expand...

Unless you get one of the P320's that's inclined to set itself off

67Dart273 said:
I'm also thinking "there's polymer and there's polymer". this Kahr frame, you can wiggle, squeeze, and deform the frame rails all over the map. **** with my old crippled fingers I CAN SQUEEZE the top of the rails and move them in 1/8--3/16!!!!!
Click to expand...

Ummmmmmm pretty sure there's still a steel frame in there..... right? I've not looked at them all, but every polymer frame gun I've seen has a steel or at least aluminum insert that the rails actually ride on.

FYI, if aluminum and steel are riding on one another, steel will be what wears if it's type 3 anodized aluminum.
 
jos51700 said:
Unless you get one of the P320's that's inclined to set itself off



Ummmmmmm pretty sure there's still a steel frame in there..... right? I've not looked at them all, but every polymer frame gun I've seen has a steel or at least aluminum insert that the rails actually ride on.

FYI, if aluminum and steel are riding on one another, steel will be what wears if it's type 3 anodized aluminum.
Click to expand...
My brother in law is a Chief Warrant Officer 5 in the Army and that's all he shoots. I don't know what model, but he swears by them.
 
Get a glock.
I'm not a huge fan of them, but they work well every time. The only ones I've seen fail to operate are modified in some dumb fashion.
They're not the most accurate, the triggers aren't great, but they go bang every time and will hold minute of man just fine even when full of pocket lint.

If it has to be a metal frame, I'd be looking for a p226 from sig. I would never want to fully disassemble one again, but German police carried them in all weather, in leather, full of plenty of lint and gunk and they still worked great.

Most newer guns are junk. They're built because glocks patents expired and now the other big companies can cash in with knock offs.

Springfield imports marginal designs and then costs cuts them until they barely functions. Same with the s&w lines. The m&p was a great pistol when introduced, but over the years the quality has fallen substantially as they've learned to make parts last just long enough to avoid lawsuits.

Khar has always been a mixed bag. Good designs, poor execution with lots of variability. Probably too much outsourcing and acceptance by fit rather than to specs (cheaper).

I love Steyr stuff, but they rarely take the time to truly polish a design before launch. As a result, their higher asking prices for magazines and accessories wins up being their downfall.

Hk makes great pistols, but you'd need to cash in a retirement account to buy one and a couple extra mags. Let alone any replacement (maintenance) parts down the line.

Kimber has always been a joke to me. "high end" guns made as cheaply as possible. Their solo is a decent design, but there's too many better compact pistols offering more mag capacity and better ergonomics and prices for it to be taken seriously.

The new sig guns are marvels, but I agree that even the new p230 has got way too many small and moving parts in it for what it is. Look up some images of the striker assembly for a good laugh.

With all that said, the only one left standing worth considering is a glock. Some gen2 40s had an issue with deep chambers, but that's been long since addressed. Best thing to do is buy a 9mm and run decent hollow points, but I like 40 because it's rarely in high demand and when available it doesn't tend to command a super high price unlike 9 and 45.

Just my $.02...
 
jos51700 said:
Unless you get one of the P320's that's inclined to set itself off



Ummmmmmm pretty sure there's still a steel frame in there..... right? I've not looked at them all, but every polymer frame gun I've seen has a steel or at least aluminum insert that the rails actually ride on.

FYI, if aluminum and steel are riding on one another, steel will be what wears if it's type 3 anodized aluminum.
Click to expand...

The p230 has been redesigned with some Rube Goldberg device to stop officers from shooting themselves in the ***. It uses a steel sub frame that's actually the registered part of the firearm, which is neat because you can change grip modules easily without having to transfer a whole new gun. Or use the trigger module in a carbine or rifle and then swap it back into the pistol at the end of the day.
Steyr actually did it first and the courts are looking at all the patents now to figure out who copied what.
All plastic pistols have some sort of steel subframe. I haven't seen any which use aluminum, but that's just going off memory. There have been some plastic AR lowers that do use aluminum, but almost all of them fail anyway.
In pistols, usually it's a coined steel frame that gets final machined after it's molded or welded into the frame. The surfaces which take the recoil forces tend to be small, hence the steel instead of aluminum. Plus it's tough to anodize after machining once the metal is buried in plastic.
 
I used to have an alloy SW 9mm single stack, DA only. Wish to hell I'd kept it. This was before CCW was 'a thing'
 
Phreakish said:
The p230 has been redesigned with some Rube Goldberg device to stop officers from shooting themselves in the ***. It uses a steel sub frame that's actually the registered part of the firearm, which is neat because you can change grip modules easily without having to transfer a whole new gun. Or use the trigger module in a carbine or rifle and then swap it back into the pistol at the end of the day.
Steyr actually did it first and the courts are looking at all the patents now to figure out who copied what.
All plastic pistols have some sort of steel subframe. I haven't seen any which use aluminum, but that's just going off memory. There have been some plastic AR lowers that do use aluminum, but almost all of them fail anyway.
In pistols, usually it's a coined steel frame that gets final machined after it's molded or welded into the frame. The surfaces which take the recoil forces tend to be small, hence the steel instead of aluminum. Plus it's tough to anodize after machining once the metal is buried in plastic.
Click to expand...

My LCP has an aluminum frame inside the plastic. That's the only reason I mentioned it
 
67Dart273 said:
I used to have an alloy SW 9mm single stack, DA only. Wish to hell I'd kept it. This was before CCW was 'a thing'
Click to expand...

Those smith's were great pistols. Heavier and bulkier than modern stuff, but always worked and never broke..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top