Another 727 converter Q

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volaredon

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I am about to swap in my new engine into my D150.
/6 going back in, in front of the original 727 which is still working great.
No I ain't dropping down to a 904
Yeah I know the difference between a 904 and a 727.
I've been All over with people about those 2 subjects before.
Question/problem being is that my particular 727 is a lockup version.
I am probably gonna be looking to slide a new converter in when the engine comes out. Mostly because I'm pretty sure I have a bad tooth or 3 on the ring gear. I'll know for sure once I get the original engine out from in front of it.
Converters are all over the place for 727s unless like me, you're stuck with the lock up version.
The lock up has never worked for me, but according to the PK number it has it.
And the input on a non Lock up is different, so I can't stick just any converter into this trans.
What is available for these, besides stone stock rebuilds? I'm not looking to go any deeper into the trans right now besides the converter and a front pump seal. It works too good otherwise, to open it up.
I did a fluid and filter swap when I got it running, only 100 miles ago. Before I knew the Lock up was DOA. But I really don't care about that either way. Only reason I dropped the pan then, was the pan gasket was leaking all over the place. And the old fluid looked as clean as the new fluid that I put in.
So what's available for a converter for a lock up 727?
How much different is the factory hi stall vs the factory lo stall version? The trans, as well as the truck ,are '85.
 
The lock up "feature" never worked, trans acts like a pre-lock up 727. The stator and such must be good inside, just the lock up portion ain't working.
I never pulled the valve body to see if the cause was within there or not.
I truthfully don't care about that part of it though. If I didn't get the grind that I sometimes get when I go to start it, I wouldn't be asking about a different converter. Seems to depend on where it came to rest the last time it was shut off as to whether it grinds or not. I did swap starters just to see if maybe it had something to do with the old one. It didn't.
I almost bought a (think it was) B&M, out of the classifieds here/"Tork master" until I found out they didn't make them in lock up version. So I know the spline count would be different from mine and wouldn't have worked for me.
If the lock up starts working by virtue of replacing the converter hey great. If not then oh well.
So anyways, can you answer my question about what stall speed options I have, for a Lock up 727?
 
Why not just take the one you have to a transmission shop and have the ring gear replaced or have the converter rebuilt. It would be a lot cheaper than buying a new one. If you like the way it shifts and drives I wouldn't change the stall speed. As to answering your question, you can have a converter built to any stall speed you want but there is a lot of questions they will ask you before they would make it.
 
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Also if you pull it out and find it is a reman converter it may not even have a lock-up clutch in it. I have seen them rebuilt with the clutch plate left out before.
 
About 500 rpm. But ring gears are extremely interchangeable between tf converters. Here's a rebuilt hi stall oem converter on ebay for $139 + $19.95 shipping:A DODGE TF8 727 TORQUE CONVERTER FOR 6 CYL. LOCKUP DACCO #558 NO WEIGHTS | eBay Summit has ring gears for $27.99. You could probably find a junk converter laying around that has a good ring gear; cut the welds with an angle grinder, and weld it onto yours.
 
Hellrats said:
Also if you pull it out and find it is a reman converter it may not even have a lock-up clutch in it. I have seen them rebuilt with the clutch plate left out before.
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never thought about that. I believe it to be the original converter it left the factory with. Will find out for sure here real soon, if I'm right. I remember the 1st handful of years the lockup wasn't the most reliable setup and its been said that they were sometimes rendered INOP "intentionally". but the spline is still different than a non lockup, regardless.

Truck is a total DOG as is, hence new motor built, and built up. I know, small motor, heavy truck. I built up another /6 because I like "different". and I had it sitting here. Not looking for "barn burner," but the v8s of the 80s were pretty dismal, as well.... going for the power of somewhere between what an 80s 318 and an 80s 360, as they were originally built, would have had (remember, the 360s of the era, were in the 7s for compression/ so I don't think my goal for power is that "crazy")

I shaved the block and head, plus put oversized valves in and ported the head, and added what "back in the day" would have been your basic "RV" cam.
and fresh bore, new pistons rings and bearings so it should be better than the original for sure.
with the (hopefully) new and IMPROVED" engine, I'll get there. As long as I have to deal with a converter "anyway," thought I might as well try and improve on what's there. I know of a big trans parts warehouse a little over an hour away, that I have bought from before. If I was looking for "stock," I know they have shelves full of them. but if there's a better option for my combo, then why not/ while I am there?

I thought Id find people reply, that know more about transmissions than I do/// I know how to do a basic overhaul on one, have done quite a few of them over the years.... but never tried modifying or improving, on what the factory started with..... besides the mildest of shift kits. but again, it comes down to "as long as I'm IN there anyway"..... having said that, I aint seeing any answers to my question, about better than stock converters being available for a lockup version of a 727....
 
Well, in your first post you asked about a stock hi stall...In the meantime, who knows what you have now? Is it a low or high stall? I don't even know if you actually have a lock up. You haven't posted any numbers or pics...so there's that.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
Well, in your first post you asked about a stock hi stall...In the meantime, who knows what you have now? Is it a low or high stall? I don't even know if you actually have a lock up. You haven't posted any numbers or pics...so there's that.
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Well, I know that I have a Lock up version. I'm not going out to climb under the truck to post the number for all to see but I have previously verified that the PK number on the side of the case comes back as being so.

And when I get the engine out and the converter out I will verify it once I see the spline on the input shaft.

Ok... Can anyone please just answer the questions? What is available for converters for a lock up version? And, among what IS available (or was, when this truck was newer, anyway) what is the stock stall rating for Low stall version, and what was the stock stall for the hi stall? I never asked to have the forum verify whether my current setup is or isn't a lock up.
Cuz if I see once I get it out that it is a non lockup I'll deal with it. That would mean that someone has been inside of it sometime in the past, and changed the front input shaft and more, to make it a "non lockup" version. But by the numbers in my trans case this trans is a damn lock up version. Right now that's all I can go by.
 
Ok well, let me know when you go out there and climb under the truck and get the number for all to see. This is a guessing game; even with the number. You can't know what to get if you don't know what you have; lockup or stall. Got a lockup? Got low stall? You don't know. People bring me all sorts of weird stuff bolted together; some works; most don't.
 
Forgot I asked then. I got the number from the trans and looked it up once, and figured out it's what it is. Just because I can't keep so many numbers fresh on top of my head and I've slept since I did that, you won't answer my question.
I'll find my answer elsewhere.
 
Volaredon, For some more converter options, please call Precision of New Hampton converters. 641 394 5955. Ask for Milt. He may answer the call at that number.
 
A high stall with nothing else would have been my first go-to. Whenever I have replaced a convertor on any automatic car I have owned, it always got a 2800 . It's a great stall upgrade for any application.
A ring gear for an 11" TC will be different from a 10".

I have an 84 D150; now with a 318LA/998-2.74low/2800/3.23s cuz there is no way I would put a slanty in that full-frame-tank, running 28/29" tires. The 318 came out of a high-mileage 75Dart. All I did was freshen it up. It now has a great first gear!
Happy HotRodding.
 
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this truck came with a slant. and the 727 that is behind it. I dont think I'd "back trade" a 318 for a /6, but the /6 is already there. and so was the one in my garage that I rebuilt to go in there. Ive had /6 trucks before. and 318 ones. and 360 ones. If this motor doesn't satisfy me in the truck I'm either gonna try to hang a turbo onto it and try that, or Im gonna put it into my Volare. there are some /6s I've had, that have surprised me over the years. I thought that if I stayed with a /6 there are lots of parts I wont need to buy like there would be, if I V8-swap it. so that meant I could experiment, put more into the /6. money that would have gone to a v8 radiator, a v8 truck pan and pickup, a v8 tranny, a set of v8 mounts, v8 exhaust, etc...... if it ends up with more "go" than the last couple of 3.9s I have had in Dakotas, this will be a "win".
 
You are just fishing for a fight. No one here will make you happy. Just fix it the way you want. Good luck on you quest.
 
I never asked anyone to do any for me. I can handle the mechanical work. I have IDd my trans, I don't need help there. Not asking for someone to hold my hand.
All that asked for was info on possible torque converters to fit a lock up version of a 727.
I didn't think I had to satisfy anyone else or prove to them, that that's what I have in order to extract a little bit of information.
This wouldn't seem to be privileged information, only able to be let out upon proof that I have what I have.
I'll call the phone number in the post a few above this one and see what he says. Thanks Voetom for the most useful reply to my question.
And thanks for the link, cuda hack job, I did look. But I didn't see anything in that eBay ad that said what level of stall speed, that that unit being sold, may have.
I've never felt like pulling teeth would be easier than getting some requested information on this forum before this thread.
What level of stall would a low stall converter for my application be, and what level of stall would a high stall version be?
And is there any other alternative to those 2 options for such a trans? Again I wish this were a non lockup, options are apparently much broader.
 
Ok, I’ll try help u. If u take off the inspection cover there should be a sticker on the converter. It will say low stall lock up. Or just LSLU. Not sure what year they had the electric lock up. My 86 had a wire to plug on the rear of the case for lock up. If u have the wire and it fell off or something u won’t have lock up. Any good transmission place can get u a reman converter. There is also converter rebuilder places in almost any city in your state. Or as mentioned already these places to check. Kim
 
If it's a total dog now as you say, the converter might have something wrong with it. I would take Tom Hand's advice and call Precision. They are fine people and can help you get the right converter.
 
My 88 had the electric controlled lock up. I remember the wire connector, looked almost like a temp sending unit on the engine almost.
On what RRR says, I think the dogginess is just a small tired engine in a heavy pickup truck.
The replacement on my stand will help with that.
 
I was at a trans shop outside talking to the owner one day. A guy pulls up with a trans in the back of his truck. He says he wants somebody to show him how to adjust the bands; He doesn't want anybody to do any actual work on the trans; JUST show him how to do it and he will do the ACTUAL work...as if adjusting the bands was worth more than knowing how.
 
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