moparraceman
Well-Known Member
have a 360 ,street strip, 10.5 -1, alum heads, 557 cam ,what mech water pump should i get ? i know some have 7 blades suggestions ? thanks
water pump
- Thread starter moparraceman
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If it's going in a 70 or later body, get the aluminum water pump...
If it's going in a 69 or earlier body, get the cast iron water pump...
This way the radiator hoses will be on the proper side to use molded hoses...
If it's going in a 69 or earlier body, get the cast iron water pump...
This way the radiator hoses will be on the proper side to use molded hoses...
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Which type are you looking for? '69 and earlier: cast iron, driver's side inlet; or '70 and later: aluminum, passenger side inlet?
The '69 and earlier comes in standard 6 and A/C 8 vane configurations, the A/C versions are getting hard to come by. In this case I would just bite the bullet and get the Flowkooler unit, #1701, which has 16 vanes to boot.
1957-1970 MOPAR Dodge Plymouth 273 318 340 Poly wedge water pump – FlowKooler Hi Flow Waterpumps (flowkoolerwaterpumps.com)
'70 and later has 2 bearing sizes, the small bearing (known to be problematic) looks like this:
The large bearing unit (early HD and police, later all) looks like this:
The '70 and later also comes in 6 and 8 vane configurations, but HD units are also available with an anti-cavitation plate on the impeller.
6 vane:
8 vane:
8 vane with anti-cavitation plate:
Flowkooler (1700) and others (Holley, Edelbrock, etc.) also make HP versions of this style pump.
Assuming (...) you're using the later aluminum pump, I would at a minimum use the HD version with the anti-cavitation plate. (Rock Auto and others)
The '69 and earlier comes in standard 6 and A/C 8 vane configurations, the A/C versions are getting hard to come by. In this case I would just bite the bullet and get the Flowkooler unit, #1701, which has 16 vanes to boot.
1957-1970 MOPAR Dodge Plymouth 273 318 340 Poly wedge water pump – FlowKooler Hi Flow Waterpumps (flowkoolerwaterpumps.com)
'70 and later has 2 bearing sizes, the small bearing (known to be problematic) looks like this:
The large bearing unit (early HD and police, later all) looks like this:
The '70 and later also comes in 6 and 8 vane configurations, but HD units are also available with an anti-cavitation plate on the impeller.
6 vane:
8 vane:
8 vane with anti-cavitation plate:
Flowkooler (1700) and others (Holley, Edelbrock, etc.) also make HP versions of this style pump.
Assuming (...) you're using the later aluminum pump, I would at a minimum use the HD version with the anti-cavitation plate. (Rock Auto and others)
No matter what you buy, be sure to match it to your pulleys.
From the factory there is an overdrive / undrdrive ratio to the pulleys depending on the cooling you have (standard, HP, CAP, AC, towing) also the radiator is any of those types (Standard, HP, etc.)
For the cooling system to work correctly all the pieces need to be comparable.
From the factory there is an overdrive / undrdrive ratio to the pulleys depending on the cooling you have (standard, HP, CAP, AC, towing) also the radiator is any of those types (Standard, HP, etc.)
For the cooling system to work correctly all the pieces need to be comparable.
moparraceman
Well-Known Member
thanks guys for info
Cledus
Well-Known Member
CVF i bought of e bay turned out to be a nice piece 8 vane anti cavitation plate heater line are threaded so you can just run plugs if you dont want heat. 49.99
Chrysler Mechanical Water Pump, High Volume Aluminum 318 340 360 - CVF Racing | eBay
Chrysler Mechanical Water Pump, High Volume Aluminum 318 340 360 - CVF Racing | eBay
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Back in year-2000, I had a bit of a heating problem, so, I installed;
a Milodon big-bearing Hi-Flo; 8-vane/anti-cavitation plate, pump,
a Hi-Flo stat,
together with a 7-blade all-steel, factory A/C fan,
on a Thermostatic Clutch that I bought at the Ford Dealer for a then current pick-up truck. My rad is from a 1973 to 75 Dart with a 318 A/C auto. It is so well-used that there are patches on the patches.
I use a 7psi cap.
She runs at 205 to 207 at the stat-house measured by IR gun. That Milodon pump has over 120,000 miles on it now. I used to shift it at 7000 all the time. It never ever threw a belt.
It turns out the heating problem was actually too-tight ring-gaps. I took the engine apart and opened up the gaps and that solved my problems. My engine combo was very similar to yours except a 292/509 cam with 1.6 rockers and 11.3 Scr.
a Milodon big-bearing Hi-Flo; 8-vane/anti-cavitation plate, pump,
a Hi-Flo stat,
together with a 7-blade all-steel, factory A/C fan,
on a Thermostatic Clutch that I bought at the Ford Dealer for a then current pick-up truck. My rad is from a 1973 to 75 Dart with a 318 A/C auto. It is so well-used that there are patches on the patches.
I use a 7psi cap.
She runs at 205 to 207 at the stat-house measured by IR gun. That Milodon pump has over 120,000 miles on it now. I used to shift it at 7000 all the time. It never ever threw a belt.
It turns out the heating problem was actually too-tight ring-gaps. I took the engine apart and opened up the gaps and that solved my problems. My engine combo was very similar to yours except a 292/509 cam with 1.6 rockers and 11.3 Scr.
If you want a HV Water pump from a standard pump. pull the impeller off and repress it on less. aka taking up all the space between the impeller and the housing. or do what i did and have a 1/4 inch plate of alu welded in to the housing and then machined so that it just kiss the housing with out the gasket.
If you are running a t-stat you my have to give it a little bit more room for.......cavitation???? when the t-state is close.
remember your talking to a racers mind not a street mind.
If you are running a t-stat you my have to give it a little bit more room for.......cavitation???? when the t-state is close.
remember your talking to a racers mind not a street mind.
I have done a lot of experimenting with w/pumps over the years, trying to cure hot running engines. I found the biggest problem was the gap between the back [ or front, depending on car/engine model ] of the moving impeller blades & the housing. The bigger that gap is, the greater the amount of water that is NOT captured by the scooping action of the blades........& just gets churned up but does NOT get pumped through the engine which is supposed to be the goal. I do not believe the number or shape of the blades makes much difference......if the water has an escape route. I see a lot of talk about cavitation. How would the average joe know if the pump is cavitating?
I make or buy a plate to close the above mentioned gap. I braze it in place usually, but sometimes because of the pump design I screw it in place. One engine I modified this way dropped the temp by over 20; most, not by that much, but always some temp reduction.
I make or buy a plate to close the above mentioned gap. I braze it in place usually, but sometimes because of the pump design I screw it in place. One engine I modified this way dropped the temp by over 20; most, not by that much, but always some temp reduction.
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